wire crimp education

[PeterT]

If I need to replace these ring or spade type connectors, is the crimp tool to use? Looks like it squeezes on the color coded plastic body portion which crimps the bare wire inside?
(I have a cheapo crimper that looks like it was made from 1/16" plate steel, with color coded notches or arcs corresponding to wire gauge. But I've always found it to be hit & miss. Either its too loose or I gronk it a bit & the fitting kind of splays out). Is this style of crimp better or save the money for a better brand tool?
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07JLDL13G...olid=2WY9MDX3L53NA&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

And what about this style? Looks like the stranded wire extends into the metal part & crimped there - the plastic end portion is just to insulate? So are these fittings used when wires are to be tied into terminal type boxes with the screw hold down (as opposed to looping wire)?
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B073TZ5BBG...olid=2WY9MDX3L53NA&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

[CalgaryPT]

The seond one is for wire ferrules, not spade/ring terminals. There is a thread on the forum about these: https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/benefits-of-wire-ferrules-in-the-shop.1666/#post-16681

WRT the first link, that's more what you probably need, but a pic of the wires and ones you are replacing would help Peter. BTW, while a ratcheting crimper is nice, I find those plastic insulated crimps are hit and miss and I rarely get a good looking crimp. The plastic gets in the way of with the crimp. Sometimes you can do the crimp first and slip the plastic over it, but often not.

When I need an insulated crimp these days I usually use heat shrink crimps. You need special crimpers for them, but they look great after heat shrunk.

A cheap compromise is non-insulated terminals, and your own heat shrink tubing after the fact. One last thing—those plastic terminals have a life cycle because they get brittle after left in the shop year after year. They will just shatter when crimped if too old. Maybe the plastic on them is better that some of mine that must be from the 1980s, but as mentioned I prefer heat shrink on any that I need insulated these days.

I think I have 20 different styles of crimpers, but none work really well on the insulated terminals. They all look hacked after crimping.

 

[PeterT]

Thanks for posting prior link on Q2 ferrules. Sorry about that. Explains my dejavue, I should have searched.

Yes I suspect I bought some Crappy Tire kit long time ago, maybe they weren't the best to begin with or the plastic gets brittle over time. I pretty much gave up on the crimp, just removed the plastic soldered the wire & heat shrink the joint. But kind of defeats the purpose of quick crimp other than the end result works. I'm actually am using the ring end fitting for a non-electrical application (RC thing, long story) so thought I'd kill 2 birds with one stone, get some supplies and the tool in the combo.

 

[CalgaryPT]

Thanks for posting prior link on Q2 ferrules. Sorry about that. Explains my dejavue, I should have searched.

Yes I suspect I bought some Crappy Tire kit long time ago, maybe they weren't the best to begin with or the plastic gets brittle over time. I pretty much gave up on the crimp, just removed the plastic soldered the wire & heat shrink the joint. But kind of defeats the purpose of quick crimp other than the end result works. I'm actually am using the ring end fitting for a non-electrical application (RC thing, long story) so thought I'd kill 2 birds with one stone, get some supplies and the tool in the combo.

I've done the exact same thing. You could use some shrink wrap on the terminal parts and trash the plastic. And soldering is a good idea as well. I think the "specialized" heat shrink crimpers they sell (Amazon) are just regular style ones with dulled teeth/dies so it doesn't cut into the heat shrink tubing on the terminals. They are some kits on Amazon that, instead of pre-wrapped terminals with heat shrink, they just include terminals and separate heat shrink tubing...which is good in that you can just use a good pair of ratcheting crimpers and never have to worry about damaging the heat shrink—you just slide the tubing on after you crimp the terminal, then heat it.

Best of luck. I'll be glad when Covid19 is over—I've got tons of these things and all sorts of crimpers you could try before you buy.

 

[Johnwa]

I got fed up with my pressed metal crisper and bought one-off these.
I‘m likely get better than 90% success rate with it.

 

[CalgaryPT]

Do they work with the insulated ones? I've got the ChannelLock equivalent of those and they don't do any better.

 

[Johnwa]

Yes, I use them on the insulated ones.

 

[PeterT]

Interesting. When they make these fittings, they stamp it from sheet stock & curl wire tube portion so the edges meet flush in the middle. The crimper John shows has kind of a male anvil shape on the top & female circle on the bottom. I can visualize that these would squeeze a more optimal shape with the ears deforming & coming down into themselves as the wire is compressed rather than just squashing it into a flattish ellipse like my cheapo's.

John do you orientate them a certain way relative to the eyelet or just give them a squeeze?

 

[PeterT]

The Amazon (Preciva) have more like an angle profile on one side. Different again.

 

[Dabbler]

the male tab must crimp the ends of the connector. it should work 100% in that mode. We can crimp a few together one day if you like. The mostlikely failure is in very cheaply made connectors. I try always to use Amphenol ones, because they are very well made. (I have a lot of offshore ones as well, for less demanding situations)...

 

[YYCHM]

I'm betting you have one of these pieces of junk.



I've run myself right out of connectors numerous times trying to get a decent connection with this stupid thing.

 

[Johnwa]

@PeterT it works best for me if it is rotated 180 degrees from your drawing.

 

[PeterT]

I'm betting you have one of these....

yes that's the one

 

[John Conroy]

@PeterT it works best for me if it is rotated 180 degrees from your drawing.

That's the way I do it too. Most times I get rid of the plastic then crimp and solder. I have been using ferrules on fine stranded wire to prevent breaking strands also.

 

[Johnwa]

I'm betting you have one of these pieces of junk.

I've run myself right out of connectors numerous times trying to get a decent connection with this stupid thing.

Don’t we all have one of those!

i do like the screw cutter part, mine‘s wore out though.

 

[YYCHM]

Don’t we all have one of those!

i do like the screw cutter part, mine‘s wore out though.

What screw cutter part?

 

[Johnwa]

What screw cutter part?

The threaded holes marked with screw sizes. You thread the screw in the length you want, cut it off and unscrew. The cut thread is reformed as you screw it out.

 

[Chicken lights]

Those are my go to. Snap On stripper/crimper on the left, Channelock flush cut snips on the right.
Then a Power Probe butane torch on the heat shrink.

Anyone who cuts zip ties off on an angle can go fly a kite

I hate the connectors with insulation on them, I try to buy them without it whenever possible and use heat shrink

 

[YYCHM]

The threaded holes marked with screw sizes. You thread the screw in the length you want, cut it off and unscrew. The cut thread is reformed as you screw it out.

Daaaa….. well look at that it even has the screw size labeled on it LOL.

 

[Richard G]

Non insulated terminals with the proper crimper & die works best. Insulated terminations are usually adequate but the quality of the terminal makes a big difference. Try some from Thomas & Betts or Burndy. I would advise against soldering unless you apply solder in small amounts just to hold the crimp crimped and try not to have any wick into the wire. If it does it stiffens the wire and this stiffness puts extra stress at the connection because when there is vibration, it gets absorbed at the connection instead of the wire.