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Where to get good used mill

Way to go!

The pully driven units are the easiest to convert the motors and you can also then drive with a VFD for speed control. Nice!
 
Congrats, looks like a nice bit of machine.

On the MT3/R8 thing, you might want to start collecting R8 bits and pieces. A MT2 will fit inside an R8, but not an MT3 (afaik). i.e. to mount an MT2 drill in my R8 spindle it fits inside the spindle, where as the adapter for an MT3 R8 holds the drill outside of the spindle. That creates a log of overhang, uses up daylight etc.

The existing motor is 600V? I don't know your machine, but on some mills (like my XLO) the motor is not easy to replace - not a standard NEMA frame. An alternative is a single phase 240-600 transformer (there are or were a few reasonably priced around here on kijiji) then into a 600V VFD might be overall easier/cheaper, depending.
 
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Your looks pretty good but I think you missed out on a real opportunity with the one @Mcgyver suggested:p
No its real nice unit I am sure I saw that one or one very similar on Kijiji.
Enjoy your new machine.:cool:
 
@mcguyver the motor is dead easy to replace on the Hartford mill. I have his exact model.

You buy any C flange mount motor. Get a 3/16" plate. Transfer the pivot and lock holes to the plate, as well as the motor mount holes. Bolt everything back together. The only constraint is that the motor shaft diameter should be the same as the old one to reuse the pulley.

I have a 240v 2HP pancake motor, but it would cost $$ to ship to Ontario. Probably easier to get a 2HP TEFC 200V 1PH motor locally and mount that.

If you like I can take a photo of my conversion - i set it up so I could put the old 3PH pancake back on it if necessary.
 
Nice mill... Where did you find it and how much?

Hidden away on Kijiji. Just over 3 grand. Looks to be in great condition. Seller says it was owned by a one-man shop. Spindle is quite, only 5 thou on the y axis and an even 10 end to end on the y. Very forthcoming with answers to my questions and very accommodating.

I suppose it's always possible I'm just being gullible. But if so, it's nice to know @Dabbler has the same mill. Should make any needed repairs or upgrades easier. All in all, I'm very happy.
 
Way to go!

The pully driven units are the easiest to convert the motors and you can also then drive with a VFD for speed control. Nice!

I'll have to decide all that after I get the machine and move it into my shop. That won't be for a few more weeks. It's planting season here right now and getting seed into my dirt is my priority.

But nice to know that there are options.
 
Congrats, looks like a nice bit of machine.

On the MT3/R8 thing, you might want to start collecting R8 bits and pieces. A MT2 will fit inside an R8, but not an MT3 (afaik). i.e. to mount an MT2 drill in my R8 spindle it fits inside the spindle, where as the adapter for an MT3 R8 holds the drill outside of the spindle. That creates a log of overhang, uses up daylight etc.

The existing motor is 600V? I don't know your machine, but on some mills (like my XLO) the motor is not easy to replace - not a standard NEMA frame. An alternative is a single phase 240-600 transformer (there are or were a few reasonably priced around here on kijiji) then into a 600V VFD might be overall easier/cheaper, depending.

Almost all my tooling is MT3. But the mill did come with a few R8 pieces. Not sure just what yet. Hopefully the most popular shanks.

Here is an R8 to MT3 adapter. I assume you mean that the over a length with R8/MT3/Bit all stacked up is the problem.

Screenshot_20210601-085126_Chrome.jpg


Nice to know I have motor options.
 
Your looks pretty good but I think you missed out on a real opportunity with the one @Mcgyver suggested:p
No its real nice unit I am sure I saw that one or one very similar on Kijiji.
Enjoy your new machine.:cool:

Ya, I blew it on that one!!!!
NNOOTT!
@mcguyver the motor is dead easy to replace on the Hartford mill. I have his exact model.

You buy any C flange mount motor. Get a 3/16" plate. Transfer the pivot and lock holes to the plate, as well as the motor mount holes. Bolt everything back together. The only constraint is that the motor shaft diameter should be the same as the old one to reuse the pulley.

I have a 240v 2HP pancake motor, but it would cost $$ to ship to Ontario. Probably easier to get a 2HP TEFC 200V 1PH motor locally and mount that.

If you like I can take a photo of my conversion - i set it up so I could put the old 3PH pancake back on it if necessary.

Appreciate any and all help. I can't use the new mill as is. But I don't physically get the mill for a week or two. I have to finish planting first.

After I get the mill, I'll also have to evaluate it as well as the various conversion options to decide which way to go.

Right off the top, I think my options are:
1 Phase/voltage Converter
2 Straight 220V motor swap
3 DC motor
4 VFDrive

All options are on the table within reason. If I'm gunna make changes, I don't mind spending a little extra to get an improvement so I'll probably pass on the straight 220 swap even though it might be the easiest. But we will see.

I need to get my hands on the machine first.
 
Here is an R8 to MT3 adapter. I assume you mean that the over a length with R8/MT3/Bit all stacked up is the problem.
.

Unless I'm just in lala land (always a possibility) that's an R8 to MT2 adapter. Do you have MT2 or 3 tooling? Working from home let goof off and go grab some photos.

This is a an R8 and and MT3 taper - The OD of the MT3 diameters are too great to have an adapter inside the R8 spindle

tfzBUkg.jpg


This is an R8 to MT2 vs R8 to MT3 adapter - using the MT3 the tool is held 2 or 3 inches below the bottom of the spindle. It will work, but will be far less rigid - that overall will leverage the laterial forces from milling. its ok for drills as the force axial. It what you have is mt2 tooling is should work ok.

3TGlE54.jpg


shot of long one above just to confirm to myself I wasn't losing it

IqNXSIx.jpg


All three, R8, R8/MNT2 and R8/MT3

kbo7Tmo.jpg
 
I think @Mcgyver is making a very good point. Getting r8 collets and and r8 shank drill chuck will be best for using the mill. If you have a boring head, you only need change your shank, etc...
 
Unless I'm just in lala land (always a possibility) that's an R8 to MT2 adapter. Do you have MT2 or 3 tooling?

I think @Mcgyver is making a very good point. Getting r8 collets and and r8 shank drill chuck will be best for using the mill. If you have a boring head, you only need change your shank, etc...

It was just a photo off of the internet based on a search for the adapter. It was labelled R8 to MT3, but I'd guess they used the same photo for all three varients. Looking again, it seems most of the outfits do that. They are probably afraid of scaring a guy like me off.... I'm no expert at such things though, so I simply drank the coolaide.

My stuff is definitely MT3 though. My lathe tailstock is MT3 and so is my Mill/Drill. Unfortunately, I deliberately tried to avoid buying anything with adapters. I always preferred a one-piece integrated MT3 shank. I didn't know then what I know now.

The other problem is that I have a fair amount of it. Everything from small and large Fly Cutters, Gear Cutting Hobs, slitting saws, a set of really nice Weldon Hole Saw Shanks (love these things), to assorted size milling bit holders. So I'll prolly get an adapter even if it does limit my working length options.

20210601_125150.jpg
20210601_125310.jpg

20210601_125127.jpg


As you can see, there is a little MT2 stuff, and even some MT1 stuff, but I have adapters to handle that already.

The mill I am getting cones with an R8 drill chuck but I have no idea what kind of quality it is. Too bad though because I have a drop dead gorgeous MT3 chuck (not in the photos) that I got for my lathe.
 
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@Susquatch : the one issue I have had with the MT adaptor on my mill is that there is no draw bar holding the Morse Taper, only the adaptor. If you are putting downward pressure on something like a drill, the taper held no problem...but....when I was gear cutting (mostly side load) the taper rotated on like the 30 th tooth and screwed the part I was making. I machined off the taper and use the cutter holder in an ER collet now. If your MT3 stuff has a draw bar thread (as it looks like most of it does) you may want to figure a way to engage that? not sure it is possible?


And yep.....you have a lot of MT3 stuff!
 
@Susquatch : the one issue I have had with the MT adaptor on my mill is that there is no draw bar holding the Morse Taper, only the adaptor. If you are putting downward pressure on something like a drill, the taper held no problem...but....when I was gear cutting (mostly side load) the taper rotated on like the 30 th tooth and screwed the part I was making. I machined off the taper and use the cutter holder in an ER collet now. If your MT3 stuff has a draw bar thread (as it looks like most of it does) you may want to figure a way to engage that? not sure it is possible?


And yep.....you have a lot of MT3 stuff!

Yup, I've had that problem too. When possible I either drilled and tapped the Morse Taper to take the draw bar or machined a flat in the taper to take the set screw that is built into the end of the Spindle on my Mill/Drill. It's never failed me. But that will be an issue with an R8 to MT3 adapter. Maybe I could get two R8 adapters and drill the drawbar hole out so I can use a longer drawbar that goes right through the R8/MT3 adapter into whatever MT3 tooling I'm trying to hold. ????
 
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I have a separate R8 drill chuck for the mill, and a MT3 for the lathe(s) all my tailstocks are MT3, More convenient to have a dedicated drill chuck for the mill anyway.
 
I have a separate R8 drill chuck for the mill, and a MT3 for the lathe(s) all my tailstocks are MT3, More convenient to have a dedicated drill chuck for the mill anyway.

I'll probably end up there too. I guess we will see how good the R8 drill chuck is that comes with the mill. If it sucks, I'll just have to get a better one. Its just that I truly love the MT3 one I have for my lathe. It's a high precision keyless chuck that works awesome.
 
As well as R8, I have some chucks on straight arbors to fit common collets.....laziness, another valuable technique in justifying tool acquisitions.

I totally get the value of laziness.... You should see how many BXA tool holders I have....... I got 3 to start, then quickly bought another set of 10, and then yet another set of 10, and I'm pretty close to needing another set! I hate resetting the tool height everytime I change a tool bit. I made a hardwood shelf for the rear splash gaurd on the lathe and I lineup all the tool holders there so they are all readily available according to my needs at the time. Yup, laziness wins again!
 
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