Nice mill... Where did you find it and how much?
Way to go!
The pully driven units are the easiest to convert the motors and you can also then drive with a VFD for speed control. Nice!
Congrats, looks like a nice bit of machine.
On the MT3/R8 thing, you might want to start collecting R8 bits and pieces. A MT2 will fit inside an R8, but not an MT3 (afaik). i.e. to mount an MT2 drill in my R8 spindle it fits inside the spindle, where as the adapter for an MT3 R8 holds the drill outside of the spindle. That creates a log of overhang, uses up daylight etc.
The existing motor is 600V? I don't know your machine, but on some mills (like my XLO) the motor is not easy to replace - not a standard NEMA frame. An alternative is a single phase 240-600 transformer (there are or were a few reasonably priced around here on kijiji) then into a 600V VFD might be overall easier/cheaper, depending.
@Susquatch :
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-power-tool/oshawa-durham-region/mill-motor/1438948723?undefined 440 volt
This motor says 440 volt - possible rewind from the original 575. Would be better 240 but might work if you can find a 240 to 440 VFD? Looks like it needs some TLC
Your looks pretty good but I think you missed out on a real opportunity with the one @Mcgyver suggested
No its real nice unit I am sure I saw that one or one very similar on Kijiji.
Enjoy your new machine.
@mcguyver the motor is dead easy to replace on the Hartford mill. I have his exact model.
You buy any C flange mount motor. Get a 3/16" plate. Transfer the pivot and lock holes to the plate, as well as the motor mount holes. Bolt everything back together. The only constraint is that the motor shaft diameter should be the same as the old one to reuse the pulley.
I have a 240v 2HP pancake motor, but it would cost $$ to ship to Ontario. Probably easier to get a 2HP TEFC 200V 1PH motor locally and mount that.
If you like I can take a photo of my conversion - i set it up so I could put the old 3PH pancake back on it if necessary.
Here is an R8 to MT3 adapter. I assume you mean that the over a length with R8/MT3/Bit all stacked up is the problem.
.
Unless I'm just in lala land (always a possibility) that's an R8 to MT2 adapter. Do you have MT2 or 3 tooling?
I think @Mcgyver is making a very good point. Getting r8 collets and and r8 shank drill chuck will be best for using the mill. If you have a boring head, you only need change your shank, etc...
@Susquatch : the one issue I have had with the MT adaptor on my mill is that there is no draw bar holding the Morse Taper, only the adaptor. If you are putting downward pressure on something like a drill, the taper held no problem...but....when I was gear cutting (mostly side load) the taper rotated on like the 30 th tooth and screwed the part I was making. I machined off the taper and use the cutter holder in an ER collet now. If your MT3 stuff has a draw bar thread (as it looks like most of it does) you may want to figure a way to engage that? not sure it is possible?
And yep.....you have a lot of MT3 stuff!
I have a separate R8 drill chuck for the mill, and a MT3 for the lathe(s) all my tailstocks are MT3, More convenient to have a dedicated drill chuck for the mill anyway.
As well as R8, I have some chucks on straight arbors to fit common collets.....laziness, another valuable technique in justifying tool acquisitions.