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What is your favorite end mill and usage

Susquatch

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Its like Amazon. 50% of stuff is sold by amazon. Less profitable stuff is sold by sellers that can have lots of listings.

On ali its more organized - each seller has a store - where he sells items. There is no AFAIK aliexpress only selling - just third party.

Think of it as a large building called a bazzar. In this bazzar you have stalls - each stall is a store. Each stall rents itself from the bazzar owner. Its same system like a 1000 years ago (or even 2000) but electronic. If someone cheats you you can complain to bazzar owner whom will come down on stall owner for being a cheat.

Aliexpress is generally good to deal with - slightly better then say eBay and a bit worse then Amazon. Far better to deal with then most Canadian businesses.

Generally big ticket items - like DRO do not need a lot of trust - items over $100 usually have plenty of tracking etc. I got multiple DROs and my parents even got a very large tent from aliexpress for like $300 (it is great BTW - way, way (100x way) better then crappy tire - even better then MEC).

I know it can be a shock but the Asian market is way, way bigger then US. We do not see this due to our US centric view. We do not see the fact that China makes 2.5x more cars then US + Canada combined and growing.

Thats a great explanation @Tom Kitta. It makes sense to me. It also explains the mish mash of content on the AliExpress Website.

I did a 3 week consulting gig in mainland China 5 years ago. There are many people who know way more than I do, but having been there on business (not as a tourist) I can tell you many many amazing stories that no one would ever believe unless they experienced it first hand.
 

Susquatch

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Spent several K over the years!
Always have issues - from small to big. But never had an issue with full refunds.
I am and have been a platinum member on ali... they issue rerunds instantly when youre a gold and platinum member. Among other perks.

I wouldnt hesitate to spend 1k in a single transaction on ali.

Chooce aliexpress standard shipping and confirm HK post or ubi express as those reach me in alberta in less then a week.

After that you end up paying heavy $ for shipments with EMT DHL FEDEX or UPS

YMMV
gluck

This is great info. Thanks for the endorsement. How does one become a platinum or gold member. Sounds like it would be worth it.
 

Susquatch

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Just checked and I am almost a Dimond member on aliexpress. I did not know such thing even existed.

Lucky you. But if I understand the system, there was no luck involved. You earned it the hard way - with an "Express" Drain connected directly from "Ali" to your wallet.

So how do you know what your status is?
 

Tom Kitta

Ultra Member
Lucky you. But if I understand the system, there was no luck involved. You earned it the hard way - with an "Express" Drain connected directly from "Ali" to your wallet.

So how do you know what your status is?

You go to your account and it tells you - I never actually looked at the "account" link before.
 

kevin.decelles

Jack of all trades -- Master of none
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I'm diamond as well. Not sure what that means. I have no issues with the service, and have had more issues on ebay in past 3 years than Alli.
 

Susquatch

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Go figure. I have zero points even though I did order some bits already.

The points rules are odd. They are calculated monthly on a rolling basis. So that big buy you made last September that got you platinum status is gone in October and then you are a just a silver schlump like me......

But you get points by reviewing, commenting, and even just for shopping at those milling and lipstick joints......

For anyone interested, here are their rules.

Screenshot_20210818-184321_AliExpress.jpg

Screenshot_20210818-184254_AliExpress.jpg

Screenshot_20210818-184230_AliExpress.jpg
 

Susquatch

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I spent much of today trying to figure out how I managed to break that mill bit. (and finishing up some parts

I noticed something interesting but I can't explain it.

Note that all discussion below is about the part moving, not the bit - that is after all what actually happens.

I was milling conventionally with the part moving from right to left behind the bit. The bit was a 2 flute 1/2" HSS End Mill. I was cutting about 1/4" at a crack - roughly half of the end mill diameter. The depth was about 20 thou per layer. But changing the depth more or less didn't have any affect on what happened.

Before I started the cut, I took the backlash out of the y axis by pulling the part toward me till it moved an 8th of an inch or so, and then pushing the part away from me till it reached the desired width of cut - about 1/2 of the end mill diameter. To my way of thinking, the bit wants to pull the part toward me so the part must be pushed back toward the rear after using up all the backlash in that direction. At least that's how I thought it was supposed to be done.

However, almost as soon as the cut starts, the part starts to drift toward me even though the y-axis handle has not moved at all. What? And Why?

If I take the y axis backlash out in the opposite direction by pulling the part toward me instead, THE EXACT SAME THING HAPPENS and the part starts to drift toward me.

In my newbie opinion, the latter case is perfectly normal. In fact, it is what I would expect to happen. The cutter is simply pulling the part toward me and is taking up the backlash I provided for it in the process. But the former example totally boggles my mind. There shouldn't be any backlash left to take up! I simply can't understand how that can happen.

Note: It does not matter if the y axis is locked or not. The drift seems to be inevitable.

To get around the problem, I was able to guestimate how much the drift is and compensate for it with a series of 5 thou cuts. The very shallow cut did not cause any appreciable drift regardless of how I dialed out the y-axis.

Recall, this is the mill with a tenth of an inch backlash - approx 90 to 110 thou depending on where you measure it.

Could it be that its not possible to take up that much backlash? Or could it be that the lead screw nut is moving vertically and allowing even more backlash, or perhaps it is on the verge of stripping?

Or could it be that this newbie has a loose screw in his thinking?
 

Tom Kitta

Ultra Member
Yes it can happen - I have had my 12mm taking a heavy cut start "drifting" I could see it on the DRO. Heavy cut is full 12mm and say 5mm deep. Especially with dull EM. At this point one has to lock the axis as when milling X you can see Y drift if Y is not well locked. In fact X should be snug too.
Also make sure quill is locked and EM is very well torqued in the collet - heck you may now realize the "holder" existance. Also lock the knee if applicable.

In the above example if the "locking" does not help something else is loose.

I never had the backlash issue - when drifting it simply pulled the screw and handles started to move - it could drift an inch or more.

Examine all moving things - what else could be moving on your machine?

Taking a 20 thou pass with half of 1/2 EM is very tiny except maybe for the very smallest machines.

I never take any "backlash out" on the axis I am not cutting on - if it was left totally loose on Y and you were cutting left to right on the X axis (or right to left) the table would dance on Y - i.e. it would shake towards and away from you for the amount of the backlash - to prevent this you need things locked.
 

Susquatch

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2 flute 1/2" HSS End Mill??? I thought you cooked a 1/2" carbide endmill?

Yup, I did. But I bought one carbide and a few hss bits to replace it from KBC - free next day delivery....... A bit more $ than Ali Express, but faster than smell.
 

Susquatch

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Yes it can happen - I have had my 12mm taking a heavy cut start "drifting" I could see it on the DRO. Heavy cut is full 12mm and say 5mm deep. Especially with dull EM. At this point one has to lock the axis as when milling X you can see Y drift if Y is not well locked. In fact X should be snug too.
Also make sure quill is locked and EM is very well torqued in the collet - heck you may now realize the "holder" existance. Also lock the knee if applicable.

In the above example if the "locking" does not help something else is loose.

I never had the backlash issue - when drifting it simply pulled the screw and handles started to move - it could drift an inch or more.

Examine all moving things - what else could be moving on your machine?

Taking a 20 thou pass with half of 1/2 EM is very tiny except maybe for the very smallest machines.

I never take any "backlash out" on the axis I am not cutting on - if it was left totally loose on Y and you were cutting left to right on the X axis (or right to left) the table would dance on Y - i.e. it would shake towards and away from you for the amount of the backlash - to prevent this you need things locked.

I'll reply in parts.

Locking the y direction does not make any difference.

I've never tried locking the direction I'm going in. Wouldn't that accelerate the leade screw wear?

No tool drift in the collet. No z drift either.

Something is moving. Yup! But what?
 

PeterT

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Its kind of like driving a car where your steering wheel has a full turn of free play until it engages the steering mechanism on either end. Yes, driving is possible but generally not a great way to operate with any accuracy. Mill table locks (and their lathe equivalent dovetail slide locks) have a secondary purpose IMO. They also prevent wear & tear on the leadscrew/nut which will see these cutting forces. The table is heavy but its on a film of oil. With leadscrew removed its not difficult to slide table back & forth by hand. The cutting forces have to be resolved somewhere & that somewhere is a tiny area called thread leadscrew contact. So its good practice to lock the 2 non-moving axis. I often don't worry about the knee as much.
 

Susquatch

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Gibs loose? Not adjusted properly?

Excellent thought! That's a very real possibility. I have not looked at them or adjusted them yet. I'm still in the mill evaluation phase before deciding which one to keep. I'll try and do that tomorrow.
 
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