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Tools you waited too long to acquire

Can we please move the Plasma/MIG discussion to the Welding Forum

What's the point in a discussion of things I wish I bought sooner, if I can't discuss the things I wish I bought sooner.......

Let's not forget that I am a piler. Almost by definition, that's all about organized chaos.

If I have to move the Plasma discussion to welding, I'll have an aneurism trying to organize my own stuff.

But, never call me Stubborn (even if I am), I'll take a look later tonight and see if I can make it make sense.

Edit - all moved as per request.
 
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So after seeing the raving here about the magnetic swarf picker uppers I finally got one, peer pressure and all. They're OK and can have a place in my shop but I could continue to live without one.
Anyway five weeks later I'm guessing a magnet came off the rod so you can't drop the swarf. I bought it off Amazon, it's a Doitool brand sold by Karin Yang. They were useless and apparently don't give a damn about customer service. Amazon did come through in the end but all there hype about "returns are easy" is crap. Finally dealt with an associate and got it resolved.
Not sure if I'll replace it but it certainly won't be from Karin Yangs store front.
 
So after seeing the raving here about the magnetic swarf picker uppers I finally got one, peer pressure and all. They're OK and can have a place in my shop but I could continue to live without one.
Anyway five weeks later I'm guessing a magnet came off the rod so you can't drop the swarf. I bought it off Amazon, it's a Doitool brand sold by Karin Yang. They were useless and apparently don't give a damn about customer service. Amazon did come through in the end but all there hype about "returns are easy" is crap. Finally dealt with an associate and got it resolved.
Not sure if I'll replace it but it certainly won't be from Karin Yangs store front.
Good to know; can you post a link?

I purchased a pocket-size, plastic encapsulated version from Boring Research a few years ago and have been very pleased with it; unfortunately, they no longer list them:

IMG_8766_Radiant_Photo.jpeg

The pocket clip cap has a small magnetic so it snaps onto the steel tube inside the “probe.”

Here’s the link to Boring Research (they have some nice, quality items):

 
Good to know; can you post a link?

I purchased a pocket-size, plastic encapsulated version from Boring Research a few years ago and have been very pleased with it; unfortunately, they no longer list them:

View attachment 55944
The pocket clip cap has a small magnetic so it snaps onto the steel tube inside the “probe.”

Here’s the link to Boring Research (they have some nice, quality items):

 
Good to know; can you post a link?

I purchased a pocket-size, plastic encapsulated version from Boring Research a few years ago and have been very pleased with it; unfortunately, they no longer list them:

View attachment 55944
The pocket clip cap has a small magnetic so it snaps onto the steel tube inside the “probe.”

Here’s the link to Boring Research (they have some nice, quality items):

Figured I better post a photo showing what "Pocket-Size" meant (those are inches, not cm):

20241216 Boring Research Swarf Tool.jpeg

Perfect for T-Slots!
 
Milwaukee M18 tools, specifically a reciprocating saw for when I'm cutting $hit off vehicles at the local U-pull/pick-a-part (as they don't allow grinders) and a circular saw for cutting wood and have even cut .5" granite tile.

The horizontal bandsaw and and old Porter portaband... as others have said, hacksaws SUCK! even my chop saw sucks and never use it anymore either
 
Those are the crimp connectors that I hate. I really can't recommend them no matter how convenient they are or how well they seem to work.

They have no ability to squeeze the entire connector to clamp the wire. The sides bulge wider to squeeze the center which leaves only the center pinching the wires. Movement of any kind can allow the wires to loosen under the pinch. Also the effective wire gauge is reduced because there is no side contact.

To work properly, the connector has to be either swaged or folded to a smaller size to squeeze and hold the entire wire bundle and all the individual wires all around its entire diameter tightly and securely.

View attachment 55837

And yes, soldering the connection afterward further improves the connection by reducing future corrosion and improving effective contact.

@Susquatch John - thank you so much for taking the time to draw this and explain it. Super good post and why I like the forum. Could I please prevail on you to also make some suggestions on crimpers which will swage or fold and the suitable connectors? I imagine this equipment is not available at the usual mass retailers. I don't even know what to call them exactly. Swage crimpers? Swage crimps?

I had a dishwasher heater fail once and discovered a blackened crimp with a wire which had melted off when I opened it up to see. Now I understand more about why it likely failed.
 
Good to know; can you post a link?

I purchased a pocket-size, plastic encapsulated version from Boring Research a few years ago and have been very pleased with it; unfortunately, they no longer list them:

View attachment 55944
The pocket clip cap has a small magnetic so it snaps onto the steel tube inside the “probe.”

Here’s the link to Boring Research (they have some nice, quality items):

I like that, one gripe with the Amazon one is it didn't help with the T slots. Anyone know of a source ?
 
I like that, one gripe with the Amazon one is it didn't help with the T slots. Anyone know of a source ?
You can try reaching out to James at Boring Research to see if he is planning another run. They are not shown on the website, Amazon or eBay (and you can't have mine!).

You could also make your own, just change dimension to suit (Neodymium magnetics of all shapes & sizes are available from K&J Magnetics):





 
@Susquatch John - thank you so much for taking the time to draw this and explain it. Super good post and why I like the forum. Could I please prevail on you to also make some suggestions on crimpers which will swage or fold and the suitable connectors? I imagine this equipment is not available at the usual mass retailers. I don't even know what to call them exactly. Swage crimpers? Swage crimps?

I had a dishwasher heater fail once and discovered a blackened crimp with a wire which had melted off when I opened it up to see. Now I understand more about why it likely failed.

They are called open barrel or open band terminals. One thing I failed to explain well is that crushing a bundle of wires is like crushing a stack of needle bearing rods. With movement, the stack of individual wire strands spreads out and collapses resulting in a bad connection.

Here is one example for the crimpers that also comes with a supply of terminals.

Screenshot_20241217_075321_Amazon Shopping.jpg


This package does not include the wire joiner connectors which look like this

Screenshot_20241217_080938_Chrome.jpg

Or this

Screenshot_20241217_081119_Chrome.jpg

The one above is designed to join the wires in the center and hold the insulation in the outer ears. Don't forget that all of these should be used with weather sealing adhesive heat shrink.

Here is a supply for the terminals. This is just one size, but there are links on that web page to others

Digikey Source

Here is an assortment on Amazon.


You can also just google open barrel or open band connectors.

I should note that some of the crimpers suggested earlier in this thread also include interchangeable jaws for open barrel connectors. The clue is the Ridge at the bottom of the jaw that folds the open barrel ears.

If you can find a crimping tool like mine on eBay or elsewhere, I HIGHLY recommend it. It has compound leveraging which makes the crimp much easier.

20241213_114325.jpg

The part number is 05019912AA. I've seen some on ebay.

Last but not least, I include below a swaging tool, but they are not really practical for a hobbiest. Factory swagers like you would see in a wiring factory are typically automated and very expensive.

 
I like that, one gripe with the Amazon one is it didn't help with the T slots. Anyone know of a source ?

I use a T-slot Cleaner. Easy to make your own to fit your slots.

Screenshot_20241217_091751_Amazon Shopping.jpg


And a small extension magnet

Screenshot_20241217_092044_Amazon Shopping.jpg

The magnets don't release, but I have no difficulty wiping the swarf off with my fingers.

Also very useful for picking up things I drop on the floor. That plus a butt-pincher covers the floor front.

And before @JustaDB goes after my clean delicate paws again, I use Sunlight dish soap and my paws are plenty tough enough that I don't worry about swarf cuts. ;)

 
I use a T-slot Cleaner. Easy to make your own to fit your slots.

View attachment 56064

T-Slot cleaning tools are great to move large quantities of swarf to the ends of the table, but they leave plenty of bits that can hinder the movement/removal of nuts; also, you still need to get the end pockets clean.

And a small extension magnet

View attachment 56065

The magnets don't release, but I have no difficulty wiping the swarf off with my fingers.

And before @JustaDB goes after my clean delicate paws again, I use Sunlight dish soap and my paws are plenty tough enough that I don't worry about swarf cuts. ;)

Your knobby fingers may be tough, but my delicate skin seems to attract tiny objects (metal slivers, wood splinters & fiberglass); if I need to use a magnetic retriever I cover the magnet with a finger cot:

IMG_8779_Radiant_Photo.jpeg
[comments not required!!!]

https://a.co/d/9aWOu04


You can also “modify” the end of a crevasse tool so that it fits in the T-Slots:

IMG_8778_Radiant_Photo.jpeg



Or, just plug/cap unused slots as I normally do.
 
Or, just plug/cap unused slots as I normally do.

I always use cardboard table covers that are custom cut to fit my vise and its clamps.

I can't wait for the next election though. I'm gunna swipe more than a few election signs to use instead.

Apparently, treated wood, plywood, and even cardboard contains chemicals that can affect the surface of my mill table. I was told this by an engineer who provides bulk corrosion protection and advice to large machine shops. The plastic cardboard is better. Makes sense to me. I like things that make sense.
 
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