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The British pound, British machine tools, small spaces and die filers.

I actually ordered that Hemingway kit earlier this week! It ended up being about $250 shipped, and I have a hunch there will be more duties once it lands in Canada. I'll let you all know how it goes!

You're going to be hit with GST. But then again you're hit with GST when the US based castings arrive too.

I look forward to your build thread. hint hint
 
You're going to be hit with GST. But then again you're hit with GST when the US based castings arrive too.

I look forward to your build thread. hint hint
And if you are like me, You will be dinged ( or they tried to ding me ) according to the customs value declaration.
So when I ordered my 10V from stuart models. They declared the customs value of the item PLUS the shipping. ( should be seperated so fedex can assess accordingly)
Stuart models and I argued back and forth in email - total of 6 emails worth. Fedex took the initiative and changed the value and even dropped the release form fee or what ever it was.

Kicker was I as the receiver cannot change the value or make any submissions or omissions on the senders behalf.
Stuart said they have been sending kits out like this for 92823423 years and no ones has ever complained.

I am not here to bash stuart, Any one and every one is free to order as little or as much from them as they see fit. I however will never order anything from them again!

Be wise when it comes to reviewing your paperwork.
I saved my self 30 or 35 $ when it was all said and done.

gluck
 
So when I ordered my 10V from stuart models. They declared the customs value of the item PLUS the shipping. ( should be seperated so fedex can assess accordingly)
Ya that sounds fishy. Maybe an error on their part but still costing you unnecessarily. They should be receptive to correcting. Fedex form (or any similar shipper) clearly has a box stating 'value' for customs & other tax purposes & that has to line up with the invoice which is almost always required to be attached. Shipping component flows through to your payment invoice or maybe return/insurable 'total' value but not the landed/custody transfer to your door.
 
Ya that sounds fishy. Maybe an error on their part but still costing you unnecessarily. They should be receptive to correcting. Fedex form (or any similar shipper) clearly has a box stating 'value' for customs & other tax purposes & that has to line up with the invoice which is almost always required to be attached. Shipping component flows through to your payment invoice or maybe return/insurable 'total' value but not the landed/custody transfer to your door.
You and I see eye to eye. Stuart did not.

Thanks for commenting.
 
Just make some of the parts out of brass, pimps it up instantly.
The advantage of HH design it's possible to run standalone or on a lathe. And not dealing with castings. And adjustable stoke. And a hold down system :)
damn you gerrit... now you've gone and convinced me to just make Harold's filer. At least to start.
 
and here is an example of how to make a martin models version from scratch, including the wood mould for casting....

 
Filing machine fits your lathe by CW woodson Page 205
 
okay last one...

custom lathe mounted die filer. A little high for my taste but hey whatever works.


Maybe I'll take this route, drawing upon the best design aspects of each that I have seen. But also adapting the mount to suit my lathe. I've now seen cross slide and tail stock mounted versions (like this one from Live Steam), so there should be no reason I can't make a one that attaches to quick change tool post for very fast change overs.

Live steam's below

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Filing machine fits your lathe by CW woodson Page 205
Once you look around they're all over the place. I wonder is anyone has video of one they've made
 
The die filers with the over arm support can use regular files with a little bit of grinding
Maybe you mean the tang? I'm talking about the teeth of die file orientated asymmetrically so it pushes the work down into the table on each cut stroke (what you ideally want) vs a regular file pushing work down and pulling work up based on its typical file tooth. That pull on each upstroke would make keeping the work steady more challenging I assume. At least on heavier cutting. I notice some filers have a kind of clamp follower, not sure if related to this or a general safety thing?
 
I’m naively assuming the teeth are the same shape, just in a different direction relative to the tang, but maybe that’s wrong. The follower piece prevents the work piece from lifting up on the up stroke. The die filers with the overarm support should be able to hold regular files “upside-down” so the cut still happens on the down stroke, or atleast that’s what i’m banking on LOL
 
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I notice some filers have a kind of clamp follower, not sure if related to this or a general safety thing?

That stops the work from lifting. As Gerrit notes, without it, it will bite your fingers. I would encourage people to incorporate something into the design. You think you'll just be smart and it'll be ok, but its easy to get tripped up. Might be better in a lathe where you can control the speed, but the point in part is of to go faster than hand filling. I've found that clamp a necessary feature. The file is going at speed...and while the down force is the greatest there is still up-force. The small part starts oscillating up down without the clamp until.... DANG! that hurt. Its not really a clamp I guess, you just set it above the work to stop it from lifting.

Xyphota, if you can modify files that's a good solution. A challenge is finding ones that are small enough around, still long enough, and aren't tapered.

There is a place in Mississauga that had them. I think they were around $30 each. Not outrageous but $300 for a set of 10 triggered the Scotch gene, way more than the filer cost. i eventually found a hoard at an auction, Fierce competition (maybe Gerrit?) for them but I prevailed (too many years of waiting for a stash to let it get away)
 
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Might have been me, I lost out to someone at the Chris Ball auction. Should have dropped out of a few other items to throw more cash at it I guess :-) Been looking ever since.
My $10 ancient Beaver/Sears scroll saw doubles (from the factory) as a die filer, works ok with a variable speed motor.
 
I wonder if you could successfully bond belt grinder material to a flat faced dummy stock, kind of like a regular rotating disc platen. A couple belts would make a good variation of files. I make lots of hand sanding tools that way bonded with 3M spray adhesive. It de-bonds with acetone or thinner. Wood is cheap but slowly degrades, my current ones are aluminum. I think the cloth or whatever they use in belts might required something different; stronger & thicker.
 
I wonder if you could successfully bond belt grinder material to a flat faced dummy stock, kind of like a regular rotating disc platen. A couple belts would make a good variation of files. I make lots of hand sanding tools that way bonded with 3M spray adhesive. It de-bonds with acetone or thinner. Wood is cheap but slowly degrades, my current ones are aluminum. I think the cloth or whatever they use in belts might required something different; stronger & thicker.

I use 3m adhesive spray. It works well on smooth backed wet sanding papers but belts may be too porous and rough on the back

Perhaps a pressure sensitive adhesive tape dual sided made for wood. Something like 3M GPT-020 Double Coated Tape. Or 3M VHB tape is the strongest tape and has thin foam between two adhesive bonding layers to account for textured surfaces like the back of belts.

VHB tape can be removed using WD-40, Goo Gone™ or a simple mixture of water and lemon oil.

 
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