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Tool Test probes (the mechanical type)

Tool
slow-poke

slow-poke

Ultra Member
To clarify when I say mechanical I mean a test probe for measuring an edge as opposed to say a Volt.

My previously posted question about coaxial indicators and some of the responses makes me think a test probe might be a more useful tool.

A quick google search resulted in threads ranging from the merits of a $9700 probe to the cheapest $100 AliExpress probe.

Well forget about the $9700 probes, if I purchase a test probe it's going to be a lot closer to the Ali end of the spectrum.

Question 1) Anyone using one of the $100 Ali type probes and if so how good/bad/ consistent are they?

Question 2) Purchase a new Ali type probe or a used better branded eBay special?

Question 3) How much should I expect to pay for a probe that will results to under 0.001" error?
 
Not a DTI, something more like this, better title "3D probe"?
18DCE4F2-F439-457B-BEB4-47952EBE73F8.jpeg
 
Susquatch said:
How about an electronic edge finder instead.....

Accusize Industrial Tools Electronic Short Shank Edge Finders with Sound Alert, C028-9273 : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific

Accusize Industrial Tools Electronic Short Shank Edge Finders with Sound Alert, C028-9273 : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific
a.co

They claim 2 tenths. I routinely get 1 tenth. But I'm sure other errors (spindle, holder, etc) stack up on it.
Click to expand...
Looks great.

What happens if you inadvertently bump too far?

Say you're 1 mil away, and you goof up and jog 10mils, does the tip break or is there some built in compliance for operator error?
 
slow-poke said:
Looks great.

What happens if you inadvertently bump too far?

Say you're 1 mil away, and you goof up and jog 10mils, does the tip break or is there some built in compliance for operator error?
Click to expand...

No problem. The ball has a spring loaded attachment to the stem. Works great.

What is a mil? Or did you mean mill? (jk)
 
Susquatch said:
No problem. The ball has a spring loaded attachment to the stem. Works great.

What is a mil? Or did you mean mill? (jk)
Click to expand...
Commonly used term when laying out PCBs or referring to component size, I assumed (I guess incorrectly) that "mil" was also used when referring to small dimensions in the machine world.

4 mil track width, 4 mil spacing is for dense circuits.

EE05F931-8322-4899-85F6-7907DFF5F4FA.jpeg
 
slow-poke said:
Commonly used term when laying out PCBs or referring to component size
Click to expand...

I'm truly sorry to make you explain all that. I had hoped the "jk" would tip you off. But ya, not many use the term in machining. A thou is much more common. Dentists seem to like it though......

What really tics me off is when it gets used instead of mm.
 
Susquatch said:
How about an electronic edge finder instead.....

Accusize Industrial Tools Electronic Short Shank Edge Finders with Sound Alert, C028-9273 : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific

Accusize Industrial Tools Electronic Short Shank Edge Finders with Sound Alert, C028-9273 : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific
a.co

They claim 2 tenths. I routinely get 1 tenth. But I'm sure other errors (spindle, holder, etc) stack up on it.
Click to expand...

Thanks for pointing that style out.

I just ordered the $18 delivered AliExpress version. Will report when it arrives.

Back to the power required for (another) bird-bath in the garden task, thanks to SHMBO;-)
 
slow-poke said:
Not a DTI, something more like this, better title "3D probe"?
View attachment 67110
Click to expand...
I have that exact one - "V6" and it seems to be very repeatable to within tenths. Pretty amazing for what was ~$70 shipped. The only thing I'd wished to have done different was to be sure to get the right kind (PNP or NPN) for the systems inputs.
Along with the probing routines in PathPilot its very easy to use (PP only uses the probe in one plane at a time so I set up the Z depth and ;et it move around X-Y. Much better for me than the LinuxCNC Probebasic that I always managed to crash using it with non-intuitive plunge depths and speeds, etc.
That electronic one works ok, have a similar battery powered one, but it needs an electrically conductive material to close the loop between the tip and the spindle. So won't work on plastics, wood etc.

FYI - I'm more than happy to have a cheap 3D probe, because when I do eventually crash it I'm out only $70 and not thousands that a professional version costs, even if they are rebuildable. Also looks like Amazon is now carrying them for $68 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0B46Y6GG7
 
I'll second @Mike R comments. I have one after realizing that the Renishaw probe I have isn't suited to edge finding (it is more CMM suitable, no concentricity adjustment). Bought spare tips and a spider as insurance, which paid off when I crashed it once. Now I have a check list for probing :-)
Once dialed in using PathPilot's concentricity adjust the thing just repeats all day.
Drew up and printed a nice holder for it, https://www.printables.com/model/553185-v6-3d-probe-holder
 
gerritv said:
I'll second @Mike R comments. I have one after realizing that the Renishaw probe I have isn't suited to edge finding (it is more CMM suitable, no concentricity adjustment). Bought spare tips and a spider as insurance, which paid off when I crashed it once. Now I have a check list for probing :-)
Once dialed in using PathPilot's concentricity adjust the thing just repeats all day.
Drew up and printed a nice holder for it, https://www.printables.com/model/553185-v6-3d-probe-holder
Click to expand...
Can you elaborate on
"the Renishaw probe I have isn't suited to edge finding (it is more CMM suitable, no concentricity adjustment)."

Why is it not suited for edge finding?

What is CMM?

I have a lot to learn?
 
CMM - Coordinate Measuring Machine.

Often used in quality labs to measure consistency of critical dimensions. My daughter was responsible for installing and setting one up at a local parts manufacturer.
 
slow-poke said:
Can you elaborate on
"the Renishaw probe I have isn't suited to edge finding (it is more CMM suitable, no concentricity adjustment)."

Why is it not suited for edge finding?

What is CMM?

I have a lot to learn?
Click to expand...
The probe has no method of aligning it self concentric with the spindle. The AliExpress V6 ones have 4 set screws that you adjust to make the tip concentric with the spindle.
1752424455969.png
 
David said:
. Can't imagine using something that wasn't connected to the CNC controller as it makes setting X,Y and Z zero effortless.
Click to expand...
David,

I'm obviously missing something....

Say the probe has r=0.2"
Imagine I place a block at some random location on the table and I want to set X=0 to the left edge of the block. So with the non wired probe I bump against the block and then type -0.2.

I imagine the radius of your wired probe is already compensated for with your wired probe, however you still need to creep up on the edge, to me that's the time consuming part and then when you do reach the edge you still need to type "0" I would imagine?

I'm guessing some aspect of the wired probe is automated that I don't understand?
 
your controller sw should:
1. know the effective diameter of the tip
2. know how to approach the surface you want to probe.
E.g. PathPilot has probe functions for inside/outside corners, holes, bosses etc. you jog into the vicinity, press the appropriate button and watch the magic.
If you are using this type of probe with e.g. a DRO on milling machine, you approach the surface slowly, the DRO controller will see the trigger. It also should know the tip diameter and adjust accordingly.
An example page from the ui
1752426166618.png
 
gerritv said:
I bought my V6 digital probe from https://www.aliexpress.com/store/912261332 because they also offer matching replacement tips and spiders.
Click to expand...

FYI - I've had a string of bad luck with buying the probe tips from Aliexpress - I used a micrometer to measure the tip that came with it - and its not exactly round but not too far off (a few tenths). So I figured I'd try getting a few tips (longer and shorter lengths) and splurged for the "ruby" tipped ones at ~$6 each. Well, those ruby ones the ball end is more like a jelly bean - its really bad (couple of thou out of round) - you can feel the out of round with your fingers! Am probably expecting too much for $6 but thought I'd try a second time and instead of the ruby tip that I ordered (and was marked on the package) - I got steel... got refunded and at least its useable but not what I had wanted.
Seems the steel ones at least have a half a chance of being decent. I may try one more time - unless someone knows a good source for actually round/spherical tips (M2.5 attachment). I can't even remember why the ruby is the preferred material for the tip?
Bling?
 
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