Upside, we have a bunch of Jacobs chucks on #4 tapers kicking around at work…
I will look tomorrow and see if I have a #4. I believe mine are all #5 though. The carbide tipped one is a dead center.Yep, it’s a #4. Very much appreciate the thought, though.
Damn. Now I’m thinking about how nice a carbide tipped live centre would be…
Ahhhh, misread.I will look tomorrow and see if I have a #4. I believe mine are all #5 though. The carbide tipped one is a dead center.
Martin
Damn. Now I’m thinking about how nice a carbide tipped live centre would be…
Meh...I use both. Dead centers can be more accurate, have less stick-out, less chatter, much easier to true. I will use them for speeds under 250rpm.Only way to go. 2nd choice is non-carbide live center.
I'm not a fan of dead centers in the tailstock. Only in the spindle or when they turn with the work like a live center would.
Dead centers do work just fine with a bit of grease or oil but why buy both kinds?
I’ll take a Swede!View attachment 47008
I have two like on the left. Made in. Sweden and one on the right. Not sure on that one. They are Morse #4. Your choice if you want one.
Cheers
Martin
I have a little can of grease from my Dad's toolbox. Works awesome on a dead center. I'm sure it is lead based though. Hence the reason I never use it.Only way to go. 2nd choice is non-carbide live center.
I'm not a fan of dead centers in the tailstock. Only in the spindle or when they turn with the work like a live center would.
Dead centers do work just fine with a bit of grease or oil but why buy both kinds?
Now I’m imagining opening a box only to find a rutabaga…I’ll take a Swede!
That hadn’t crossed my mind! I’ve used it to scrub walls before painting, thanks for the tip!On the cleaning note, I've found TSP and hot water to be the absolute best for machine tools. Kerosene works well, but it pricy and smelly, and hard to dispose of after the fact, TSP is cheap, odorless (unless you buy the scented "concentrate", don't do that, buy the bag of powder), and more environmentally friendly. I've used it on everything from my lathe to my tractor. Everyone seems to be worried about the flash rust after the fact, but as long as its toweled dryish I've not had an issue. Another plus, is after a quick rinse it's ready to take paint, and boy will it stick good.
Good idea! My suspicion is I’m out of luck, but I don’t have much to lose there.A quick and dirty trick that might work for that line is to take a 3mm wrench, and run the open end around the outside to reform the line. If it's totally pinched down flat it's screwed, but if it's just dented a bit flat on the side it might reform round enough to restore flow. If it's completely work hardened it might crack, but if you anneal it first you'd stand a better chance of reforming it round. Might be worth a shot if you're bored and pinching pennies. I've never done it on lines this small but it works great on larger copper tubing.
Yep! I’m thinking that, if I’m going to try it, I might as well give it a best case scenario, and make some sort of split forming tool from some brass offcuts at work.I just popped out into the garage while making dinner to demonstrate it. 3/8" copper tube, I flattened the end (not all the way), annealed it (red hot, then quench in water). A 3/8" open end wrench was then run around the end reforming it round. It's obviously a bit of a bodge, and you could make a nicer tighter fitting forming tool than a wrench (you might have to for that 3mm), but it could get you out of a jam and restore oil flow for now.
https://i.imgur.com/2WVIXpq.mp4
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