Standard Modern Series 2000

[JeffD]

So here I am this far, but can't seem to move the bearings on the intermediate shaft. Does the rear bearing have to punch out from the inside?
You can see all of the filings in the bottom from the gears grinding.

 

[YotaBota]

With Retainer Plate, Item #3, removed and Bearing Retainer, Item #23, removed you should be able to gently tap the shaft back and forth to remove the bearings. Bearing #7 coming out to the left being pushed by the splines and bearing #23 may need to move the the right and once the shaft is removed it may come out to the left as well.
Have a good look for how far B#22 can go to the right, and AFAIR nothing should need a 4lb microadjuster.

If this isn't working don't get impatient, others will be here soon.

 

[YotaBota]

Oh, and don't forget to remove the setscrew Item #24

 

[JeffD]

Hello Mike. Thanks for the help.
I just couldn't see how those bearings could be moved from the inside out. I have the retainer plate and bushing removed as well.
So you are saying gently tap with a brass hammer or brass punch on the gears in yellow?

 

[YotaBota]

I wouldn't tap the gears, tap the shaft from the right side thru the retainer hole and see if that removes the #7 bearing, that's the shortest distance to get the shaft out. If that isn't easy try tapping the shaft from the left and see if that moves the #22 bearing. Keep track of how the gears and spacers go together while the shaft is coming out.

 

[YotaBota]

Brass punch/hammer is preferred.

Gotta go, meeting tom038 for coffee, I'll check in with you later.

 

[JeffD]

Brass punch/hammer is preferred.

Gotta go, meeting tom038 for coffee, I'll check in with you later.

Thanks Mike. Mission accomplished!
I had to make a spacer to sit on the shaft because I ran out of travel on gear #16. It started hitting the housing.
Both bearings are toast!
You saved the day!!!!!!!!!!!!
Jeff.

 

[RobinHood]

Good job getting the bearings out.

Might want to consider replacing the input shaft bearings at the same time - you have already gone this far…

Replace them with same or better quality bearings and you will be good to go. Should reduce the noise by a whole lot.

 

[DeBangis]

Welcome to CHMW.

 

[YotaBota]

Glad I could help. It looks like more swarf inside than out. lol

@RobinHood - by "input shaft" are you referring to the shaft the pulley is on? The book calls it the "pulley shaft" so I don't want to add any confusion.

 

[RobinHood]

by "input shaft" are you referring to the shaft the pulley is on?

Yes, sorry Mike.

I should have used the SM parts diagram and looked up the proper nomenclature.

 

[YotaBota]

Apology not necessary, just making sure we were talking about the thing.

 

[Marc Moreau]

Welcome from Gatineau Quebec

 

[Danzo187]

Hello.
First post here .
I currently own a SM series 2000 lathe. Was the same model that I used all through High School. It has a few issues, one being which sounds like a gear noise in the gearbox.
I removed the cover, and was able to isolate the noise to the intermediate shaft, but can't tell if it is a bearing noise ( item 22 on headstock parts list) or gear noise between intermediate and main shaft?
Anyone out there who has had the same issue, would like to hear from you.
Thanks all for you help in advance!!

Jeff
since you and I are replacing bearings in our SM 13" series 2000 I was thinking would it be useful putting a magnet in the bottom of the gearbox to pick up the metal gear particles that could make their way to the bearings especially the TDO spindle bearing ,and maybe once a year take it out and clean it .I only ask because I just saw the prices for a Timken TDO bearing, since I had the whole gearbox apart I'd thought I'd replace the TDO bearing too....NOT!....there 300 and change, quite pricey, so I guess I'm asking would the bearings eventually become magnetized which would be bad bad bad or are the strength of a ceramic magnets not strong enough to even worry about it.
Dan

 

[JeffD]

Morning Dan.
Well I can tell you I am no expert when it comes to lathe gearboxes, but it does make sense. I know you can buy drain plugs with magnet attached. You would want to make sure that the magnet doesn't dislodge and stick to the gear train!! Also maybe put the magnet in a ziplock bag to make it easer to clean. I'm sure someone here has done this before.

 

[CWret]

A magnetic drain plug is an easy and safe thing to add. I’ve used them for lots of applications. Below is the one I put in my mill.

https://www.amazon.ca/Drain-Magnetic-Titanium-Modification-Toyota/dp/B084ZC1XST/ref=mp_s_a_1_3_pp?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.l02x0cokKv660rxYfJrCx_MIbHp-ZiAs4gwNS05K_4Pc_Q_EEscNNYrO4Mlz6a2UOJ0wulagNU8vICdDfGLsio85-_SuFgB5e6bIYSQ1Ez65w2RnzguIH1RyStRc7eiUJJHs_mSGNDtyacrSnwdh8lCd6UPo6f1TNGjg6vCKL5THN0QNkRZcb1zu1khyYwy_jRW_rtbMVscw7b8v8hLXCA.W2fkFUgIqfadQE9V98tCS0wZED3OQQjRpKdfYo4wJjY&dib_tag=se&keywords=magnetic+drain+plug&qid=1712060416&sr=8-3

 

[Lightspeed Mike]

I'm in Selby and have the same lathe. I'm late to the post as I see you've gotten it apart already. I had an oil leak at the headstock on mine. It's just an O ring which I got from a local hydraulic shop. I'd recommend replacing it while you're there.

 

[Susquatch]

Plus 1 for the magnetic drain plug @CWret suggests. Easy to buy or make, install, remove, clean. No need for magnets in plastic bags. If you make one, I'd recommend using a neodymium magnet for maximum effectiveness.

 

[CWret]

Oil analysis is a scientific way to prevent or uncover issues in a machine. Frequently checking (for changes of) what’s stuck to your magnet can be a poor man’s oil analysis.
(Did that for many years on my race bikes.)