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Right Angle drive for a Bridgeport style mill.

So to answer directly, yes, of course a thicker shaft 25mm or 40mm will be a LOT less bendy. Usually in this arrangement I take a *lot* of very light cuts anyway. Just my practice...

--you can also afford to make that 19mm shaft a lot shorter, and get the same rigidity.
 
Susquatch said:
Let's see how it goes. If it becomes a new discussion, I'll move it. Unless you want to start over yourself. Your call.
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Well I'm not going to do anything in the immediate future so for now we can just leave it. Just curious if there was a rule of thumb for between centers and OD of work on the between centers. I know larger is always better.
 
jcdammeyer said:
Well I'm not going to do anything in the immediate future so for now we can just leave it. Just curious if there was a rule of thumb for between centers and OD of work on the between centers. I know larger is always better.
Click to expand...

If there is, I've never heard it. In the absence of such a rule, the only limit I can think of is the buckling stability of the work and of course the tool pressure.
 
ducdon said:
That's the one I'm looking at. To do motorcycle ore snowmobile cylinders I would probably need about 8 to 10 inches of travel. Rigidity is the big question. Especially without the outer end support.
Click to expand...
What is your plan to finish the cylinders and fit the pistons to the required clearance ?
 
Gearhead88 said:
What is your plan to finish the cylinders and fit the pistons to the required clearance ?
Click to expand...
I have yet to do one. I have done some experiments on a scrap 2 stroke cylinder using a fixture in my 4 jaw chuck and a big fat boring bar. best result is between .0005 and .001 taper? I'm not sure how much can be successfully honed out? I have about 7 different cylinders I'd like to do, and I'd like to try doing them myself and that would mean investing in a proper dial bore gage and a rigid hone. What I hear here rules out the right angle drive for the mill. I'll post a picture of my setup when I get a few minutes.
 
Here's a picture of what I was doing in the lathe. The slug in the 4 jaw is bored to just accept the sleeve were it protrudes from the bottom of the cylinder. The machined band on the outside is concentric so I can dial it in and I take a skim cut on the face each time I chuck it up so the cylinder registers on the base of the cylinder. I think the bore finish is good and no signs of chatter. I just don't know how much taper is OK.
IMG_20190212_131505.jpg
 
Somewhere on YouTube I saw a solution for this. It basically relied on doing a hone to remove the taper going in from the larger size. It doesn't rely on setup but on progress removal of the taper in a systematic format.
 
ducdon said:
I have yet to do one. I have done some experiments on a scrap 2 stroke cylinder using a fixture in my 4 jaw chuck and a big fat boring bar. best result is between .0005 and .001 taper? I'm not sure how much can be successfully honed out? I have about 7 different cylinders I'd like to do, and I'd like to try doing them myself and that would mean investing in a proper dial bore gage and a rigid hone. What I hear here rules out the right angle drive for the mill. I'll post a picture of my setup when I get a few minutes.
Click to expand...
A good rigid hone is expensive , there is a possibility of stumbling into one if you are lucky or in the right place at the right time and the stars align . Ebay venders often think that anything that says Sunnen on it is solid gold , that goes for Sunnen bore guage's too which are pretty much top shelf stuff. I found a pretty nice sunnen rigid hone at the Red Deer swap meet several years ago for $40 , a typical price for a used one on fleabay is $600 +
 
Dabbler said:
You can lap 1 thou in non-hardened materials with reasonable effort. Nice boring bar BTW.

to do the job well, you'd need a good bore gauge. ($$$)
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A good experienced operator can straighten out a wookety bore on a sunnen machine , not so easy with a drill powered rigid hone , the reason being , a dedicated honing machine has a built in bore gauge , in tenths to get a visual on material being removed and the needle will sweep when there is taper or the bore is out of round . It takes experience and finesse to make a wookety hole round , the trick is to interpret what you are seeing on the guage , think about it and take corrective action , without screwing up the hole , making it worse or blowing over the desired final size.

With a drill mounted rigid hone you gotta wing it , measure lots and find the areas of the bore that require more stroking , take corrective action , more measuring , if you are both lucky AND good , it all turns out.

To clarify ...... , the abrasive stones and guide shoes on a Sunnen hone machine follow the bore , if irregularities exist the dial gauge built into the machine displays the variance . What the operator does with that is up to him , it can turn out well in the hands of an experienced guy or it can go sideways in a hurry .

As material is removed from the bore , constant measuring with a hand held bore guage is necessary to keep the sizing and "straight-ness" under control .

IMG_5171.JPG

The guage is above the spindle and is connected directly to the mechanism that retracts the stones as well as the adjustment handle ( above the guage ) which sets the desired size of the stones within the bore . There is a second dial handle which allows the operator to set the cutting pressure . Then there are a multitude of available stones in several grits for various sizes and materials , it's complicated , at first and expensive too , no one said any of this is cheap , it's frighteningly costly to get a machine and properly outfit it , the learning curve/ experience part is when you actually get to stand at the machine and run it.
 
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Degen said:
Somewhere on YouTube I saw a solution for this. It basically relied on doing a hone to remove the taper going in from the larger size. It doesn't rely on setup but on progress removal of the taper in a systematic format.
Click to expand...
It's a real dance standing at the honing machine to straighten out a bore but is totally do - able .
 
Gearhead88 said:
A good experienced operator can straighten out a wookety bore on a sunnen machine , not so easy with a drill powered rigid hone , the reason being , a dedicated honing machine has a built in bore gauge , in tenths to get a visual on material being removed and the needle will sweep when there is taper or the bore is out of round . It takes experience and finesse to make a wookety hole round , the trick is to interpret what you are seeing on the guage , think about it and take corrective action , without screwing up the hole , making it worse or blowing over the desired final size.

With a drill mounted rigid hone you gotta wing it , measure lots and find the areas of the bore that require more stroking , take corrective action , more measuring , if you are both lucky AND good , it all turns out.

To clarify ...... , the abrasive stones and guide shoes on a Sunnen hone machine follow the bore , if irregularities exist the dial gauge built into the machine displays the variance . What the operator does with that is up to him , it can turn out well in the hands of an experienced guy or it can go sideways in a hurry .

As material is removed from the bore , constant measuring with a hand held bore guage is necessary to keep the sizing and "straight-ness" under control .

View attachment 28745

The guage is above the spindle and is connected directly to the mechanism that retracts the stones as well as the adjustment handle ( above the guage ) which sets the desired size of the stones within the bore . There is a second dial handle which allows the operator to set the cutting pressure . Then there are a multitude of available stones in several grits for various sizes and materials , it's complicated , at first and expensive too , no one said any of this is cheap , it's frighteningly costly to get a machine and properly outfit it , the learning curve/ experience part is when you actually get to stand at the machine and run it.
Click to expand...
Thanks Jeff. I appreciate it.
 
In about 2006'ish, I went to the the machinery show at the expo center at the CNE. I saw a CNC center that could do everything (and I instantly knew I wanted one) had no idea of what application I would use it for, but knew I could find one. Unfortunately (maybe fortunately) it fell under that boat statement.
 
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