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Right Angle drive for a Bridgeport style mill.
- Thread starter ducdon
- Start date
Let's see how it goes. If it becomes a new discussion, I'll move it. Unless you want to start over yourself. Your call.
Well I'm not going to do anything in the immediate future so for now we can just leave it. Just curious if there was a rule of thumb for between centers and OD of work on the between centers. I know larger is always better.
If there is, I've never heard it. In the absence of such a rule, the only limit I can think of is the buckling stability of the work and of course the tool pressure.
Gearhead88
Super User
What is your plan to finish the cylinders and fit the pistons to the required clearance ?
I have yet to do one. I have done some experiments on a scrap 2 stroke cylinder using a fixture in my 4 jaw chuck and a big fat boring bar. best result is between .0005 and .001 taper? I'm not sure how much can be successfully honed out? I have about 7 different cylinders I'd like to do, and I'd like to try doing them myself and that would mean investing in a proper dial bore gage and a rigid hone. What I hear here rules out the right angle drive for the mill. I'll post a picture of my setup when I get a few minutes.
Here's a picture of what I was doing in the lathe. The slug in the 4 jaw is bored to just accept the sleeve were it protrudes from the bottom of the cylinder. The machined band on the outside is concentric so I can dial it in and I take a skim cut on the face each time I chuck it up so the cylinder registers on the base of the cylinder. I think the bore finish is good and no signs of chatter. I just don't know how much taper is OK.
Former Member
Guest
Somewhere on YouTube I saw a solution for this. It basically relied on doing a hone to remove the taper going in from the larger size. It doesn't rely on setup but on progress removal of the taper in a systematic format.
Gearhead88
Super User
A good rigid hone is expensive , there is a possibility of stumbling into one if you are lucky or in the right place at the right time and the stars align . Ebay venders often think that anything that says Sunnen on it is solid gold , that goes for Sunnen bore guage's too which are pretty much top shelf stuff. I found a pretty nice sunnen rigid hone at the Red Deer swap meet several years ago for $40 , a typical price for a used one on fleabay is $600 +
Gearhead88
Super User
A good experienced operator can straighten out a wookety bore on a sunnen machine , not so easy with a drill powered rigid hone , the reason being , a dedicated honing machine has a built in bore gauge , in tenths to get a visual on material being removed and the needle will sweep when there is taper or the bore is out of round . It takes experience and finesse to make a wookety hole round , the trick is to interpret what you are seeing on the guage , think about it and take corrective action , without screwing up the hole , making it worse or blowing over the desired final size.
With a drill mounted rigid hone you gotta wing it , measure lots and find the areas of the bore that require more stroking , take corrective action , more measuring , if you are both lucky AND good , it all turns out.
To clarify ...... , the abrasive stones and guide shoes on a Sunnen hone machine follow the bore , if irregularities exist the dial gauge built into the machine displays the variance . What the operator does with that is up to him , it can turn out well in the hands of an experienced guy or it can go sideways in a hurry .
As material is removed from the bore , constant measuring with a hand held bore guage is necessary to keep the sizing and "straight-ness" under control .
The guage is above the spindle and is connected directly to the mechanism that retracts the stones as well as the adjustment handle ( above the guage ) which sets the desired size of the stones within the bore . There is a second dial handle which allows the operator to set the cutting pressure . Then there are a multitude of available stones in several grits for various sizes and materials , it's complicated , at first and expensive too , no one said any of this is cheap , it's frighteningly costly to get a machine and properly outfit it , the learning curve/ experience part is when you actually get to stand at the machine and run it.
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Gearhead88
Super User
It's a real dance standing at the honing machine to straighten out a bore but is totally do - able .
Gearhead88
Super User
To quote Gary Larson " That not be cheap "
Former Member
Guest
A saying I remember from boating, "If you gotta ask, you can't afford it."
Thanks Jeff. I appreciate it.
Gearhead88
Super User
Here’s the indicator to read
Former Member
Guest
In about 2006'ish, I went to the the machinery show at the expo center at the CNE. I saw a CNC center that could do everything (and I instantly knew I wanted one) had no idea of what application I would use it for, but knew I could find one. Unfortunately (maybe fortunately) it fell under that boat statement.
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