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Right Angle drive for a Bridgeport style mill.

So to answer directly, yes, of course a thicker shaft 25mm or 40mm will be a LOT less bendy. Usually in this arrangement I take a *lot* of very light cuts anyway. Just my practice...

--you can also afford to make that 19mm shaft a lot shorter, and get the same rigidity.
 
Susquatch said:
Let's see how it goes. If it becomes a new discussion, I'll move it. Unless you want to start over yourself. Your call.
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Well I'm not going to do anything in the immediate future so for now we can just leave it. Just curious if there was a rule of thumb for between centers and OD of work on the between centers. I know larger is always better.
 
jcdammeyer said:
Well I'm not going to do anything in the immediate future so for now we can just leave it. Just curious if there was a rule of thumb for between centers and OD of work on the between centers. I know larger is always better.
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If there is, I've never heard it. In the absence of such a rule, the only limit I can think of is the buckling stability of the work and of course the tool pressure.
 
ducdon said:
That's the one I'm looking at. To do motorcycle ore snowmobile cylinders I would probably need about 8 to 10 inches of travel. Rigidity is the big question. Especially without the outer end support.
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What is your plan to finish the cylinders and fit the pistons to the required clearance ?
 
Gearhead88 said:
What is your plan to finish the cylinders and fit the pistons to the required clearance ?
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I have yet to do one. I have done some experiments on a scrap 2 stroke cylinder using a fixture in my 4 jaw chuck and a big fat boring bar. best result is between .0005 and .001 taper? I'm not sure how much can be successfully honed out? I have about 7 different cylinders I'd like to do, and I'd like to try doing them myself and that would mean investing in a proper dial bore gage and a rigid hone. What I hear here rules out the right angle drive for the mill. I'll post a picture of my setup when I get a few minutes.
 
Here's a picture of what I was doing in the lathe. The slug in the 4 jaw is bored to just accept the sleeve were it protrudes from the bottom of the cylinder. The machined band on the outside is concentric so I can dial it in and I take a skim cut on the face each time I chuck it up so the cylinder registers on the base of the cylinder. I think the bore finish is good and no signs of chatter. I just don't know how much taper is OK.
IMG_20190212_131505.jpg
 
Somewhere on YouTube I saw a solution for this. It basically relied on doing a hone to remove the taper going in from the larger size. It doesn't rely on setup but on progress removal of the taper in a systematic format.
 
ducdon said:
I have yet to do one. I have done some experiments on a scrap 2 stroke cylinder using a fixture in my 4 jaw chuck and a big fat boring bar. best result is between .0005 and .001 taper? I'm not sure how much can be successfully honed out? I have about 7 different cylinders I'd like to do, and I'd like to try doing them myself and that would mean investing in a proper dial bore gage and a rigid hone. What I hear here rules out the right angle drive for the mill. I'll post a picture of my setup when I get a few minutes.
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A good rigid hone is expensive , there is a possibility of stumbling into one if you are lucky or in the right place at the right time and the stars align . Ebay venders often think that anything that says Sunnen on it is solid gold , that goes for Sunnen bore guage's too which are pretty much top shelf stuff. I found a pretty nice sunnen rigid hone at the Red Deer swap meet several years ago for $40 , a typical price for a used one on fleabay is $600 +
 
Dabbler said:
You can lap 1 thou in non-hardened materials with reasonable effort. Nice boring bar BTW.

to do the job well, you'd need a good bore gauge. ($$$)
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A good experienced operator can straighten out a wookety bore on a sunnen machine , not so easy with a drill powered rigid hone , the reason being , a dedicated honing machine has a built in bore gauge , in tenths to get a visual on material being removed and the needle will sweep when there is taper or the bore is out of round . It takes experience and finesse to make a wookety hole round , the trick is to interpret what you are seeing on the guage , think about it and take corrective action , without screwing up the hole , making it worse or blowing over the desired final size.

With a drill mounted rigid hone you gotta wing it , measure lots and find the areas of the bore that require more stroking , take corrective action , more measuring , if you are both lucky AND good , it all turns out.

To clarify ...... , the abrasive stones and guide shoes on a Sunnen hone machine follow the bore , if irregularities exist the dial gauge built into the machine displays the variance . What the operator does with that is up to him , it can turn out well in the hands of an experienced guy or it can go sideways in a hurry .

As material is removed from the bore , constant measuring with a hand held bore guage is necessary to keep the sizing and "straight-ness" under control .

IMG_5171.JPG

The guage is above the spindle and is connected directly to the mechanism that retracts the stones as well as the adjustment handle ( above the guage ) which sets the desired size of the stones within the bore . There is a second dial handle which allows the operator to set the cutting pressure . Then there are a multitude of available stones in several grits for various sizes and materials , it's complicated , at first and expensive too , no one said any of this is cheap , it's frighteningly costly to get a machine and properly outfit it , the learning curve/ experience part is when you actually get to stand at the machine and run it.
 
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Degen said:
Somewhere on YouTube I saw a solution for this. It basically relied on doing a hone to remove the taper going in from the larger size. It doesn't rely on setup but on progress removal of the taper in a systematic format.
Click to expand...
It's a real dance standing at the honing machine to straighten out a bore but is totally do - able .
 
Gearhead88 said:
A good experienced operator can straighten out a wookety bore on a sunnen machine , not so easy with a drill powered rigid hone , the reason being , a dedicated honing machine has a built in bore gauge , in tenths to get a visual on material being removed and the needle will sweep when there is taper or the bore is out of round . It takes experience and finesse to make a wookety hole round , the trick is to interpret what you are seeing on the guage , think about it and take corrective action , without screwing up the hole , making it worse or blowing over the desired final size.

With a drill mounted rigid hone you gotta wing it , measure lots and find the areas of the bore that require more stroking , take corrective action , more measuring , if you are both lucky AND good , it all turns out.

To clarify ...... , the abrasive stones and guide shoes on a Sunnen hone machine follow the bore , if irregularities exist the dial gauge built into the machine displays the variance . What the operator does with that is up to him , it can turn out well in the hands of an experienced guy or it can go sideways in a hurry .

As material is removed from the bore , constant measuring with a hand held bore guage is necessary to keep the sizing and "straight-ness" under control .

View attachment 28745

The guage is above the spindle and is connected directly to the mechanism that retracts the stones as well as the adjustment handle ( above the guage ) which sets the desired size of the stones within the bore . There is a second dial handle which allows the operator to set the cutting pressure . Then there are a multitude of available stones in several grits for various sizes and materials , it's complicated , at first and expensive too , no one said any of this is cheap , it's frighteningly costly to get a machine and properly outfit it , the learning curve/ experience part is when you actually get to stand at the machine and run it.
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Thanks Jeff. I appreciate it.
 
In about 2006'ish, I went to the the machinery show at the expo center at the CNE. I saw a CNC center that could do everything (and I instantly knew I wanted one) had no idea of what application I would use it for, but knew I could find one. Unfortunately (maybe fortunately) it fell under that boat statement.
 
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