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RF30 Mill/Drill Surprises
- Thread starter whydontu
- Start date
You must have yours in the basement. Can't you make a recess, or cavity, or hole in the ceiling? Perhaps inside on the floor of a closet upstairs?
Less desirable but prolly not impossible is an operating position in a pit. Nah, I'd cut my column down before doing that......
trlvn
Ultra Member
Another option is to fix up the RF-30, sell it and use the proceeds towards a square column mill. I get along OK with my round column but changing the belts is tiresome. I've found, with planning, I seldom need to move the head up or down during a sequence of operations. (Stubby drills make an enormous difference.) But there are a fair number of time where I'm extending the quill a full 5 inches for one operation or another. I've got to think that doesn't help the already mediocre rigidity.
YMMV.
Craig
YMMV.
Craig
Switch over to a 3 phase motor and VFD. You'll never have to change a belt again.
More info might help. I already have a BB CT129 bench mill (3/4 HP 7x20, equal to current CX600) that has 3-axis DRO, power lift, and power X feed. I have experience using an RF30 at a previous employers shop, and owned an RF15 years ago. I picked up the RF30 because the $500 price was just too good to pass up, but didn't think of checking height before I bought it. I learned the trick of a round-column mill is lay out your tooling before you start, and try to set the head at the lowest height that will cover the entire suite of tools. Plus I'll definitely add a DRO.
I'll probably keep both for a while. My beef with the CT129 is it's just too underpowered for some of the work I do. I don't do super precision work, but I do end up machining 316 stainless steel quite often and 3/4 HP variable speed brushed DC isn't always up to the task. The RF30 has a brand-new 2HP 220/1/60 motor. I can put up with belt changes for a while. If I get some spare cash I'll go the VFD route. In the back of my mind I'm also tossing around the idea of designing a CVT variable speed. I recently bought a bench drill press that uses a twin-pulley mechanical variable speed setup, and I love it.
I'll probably keep both for a while. My beef with the CT129 is it's just too underpowered for some of the work I do. I don't do super precision work, but I do end up machining 316 stainless steel quite often and 3/4 HP variable speed brushed DC isn't always up to the task. The RF30 has a brand-new 2HP 220/1/60 motor. I can put up with belt changes for a while. If I get some spare cash I'll go the VFD route. In the back of my mind I'm also tossing around the idea of designing a CVT variable speed. I recently bought a bench drill press that uses a twin-pulley mechanical variable speed setup, and I love it.
slow-poke
Ultra Member
On advice from this forum that's exactly what I did. My RC mill was all souped-up so I sold it for more than I paid for the knee mill delivered to my door. I'm learning the trick is to just be patient. Getting that RF30 for $500 you can't go wrong even if some assembly required (including the missing 7/16 bolts;-)
Bit the bullet and with fingers crossed I cut down the column. I used my Milwaukee Portaband and it did a terrific job. No burrs, straight, and well within acceptable tolerances. Even with the column cut down 8", I still have almost 22" from table surface to quill nose. Lots of machining envelope.
It's still a couple of inches taller than the standard RF30 machines I looked at.
I haven't built the stand yet, so I'll wait on filling the column until after the stand is done and the head is trammed. A few bits still to be done like the fine feed clutch and the quill lock.
DRO to be ordered tomorrow, Vevor has a 3-axis setup for $307 that I'm willing to gamble on. Good reviews on Amazon.
A DRO on a mill is a must IMO. I never knew what I was missing till I installed my Ditron. So nice!
I have one for the lathe too. I'm hoping it's as nice to have as the one on the mill was. But I'm skeptical. TBD.
Sigh. Even the Grizzly version has effed-up fastener threads.
I’m missing the two tumblers #325 & 326 that act as a quill lock. No problem, I needed to order the #332 worm gear for the fine feed assembly, and Grizzly only wanted $18 total for both tumbler pieces.
They arrived today, so giddy with excitement I went down to the shop and tried them out. Fit like a glove! I didn’t order the locking lever #324, because I don’t like the factory bent lever and intend to make my own with a sliding tee handle. Then I discovered #326 is also threaded 1/2”-12 tpi. So I can’t just grab a piece of bar and a die and make the lock.
So I get to try @jcdammeyer ‘s ELS threading function…
I’m missing the two tumblers #325 & 326 that act as a quill lock. No problem, I needed to order the #332 worm gear for the fine feed assembly, and Grizzly only wanted $18 total for both tumbler pieces.
They arrived today, so giddy with excitement I went down to the shop and tried them out. Fit like a glove! I didn’t order the locking lever #324, because I don’t like the factory bent lever and intend to make my own with a sliding tee handle. Then I discovered #326 is also threaded 1/2”-12 tpi. So I can’t just grab a piece of bar and a die and make the lock.
So I get to try @jcdammeyer ‘s ELS threading function…
I took a bit of scrap aluminum about 5/8" diameter. Set up my ELS to do 12 TPI for 3/4" and ran a few passes. Checked it with my thread gauge and it does look like 12 TPI. I don't think you will have any trouble.
historicalarms
Ultra Member
Make sure you make your handles long enough for a closed end wrench can be used for a snipe to pinch those locks to the quill barrel or it will slip a touch from whatever setting you choose that is "perfect" for your job. I use a 7/8 wrench to crank on my bent handle every time i lock the spindle, religiously!!
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slow-poke
Ultra Member
whydontu,
I did a lot of mods to my RC mill and one that I never regretted was making permanent levers for the head to column locking nuts.
I can't tell you how many times the wrench slipped out of my hands while going back and forth on the three locking nuts before I added the levers.
I added thrust washers while I was at it, making it really easy to clamp tight with very little effort.
For the total cost of about $10 it turned a PITA task into a smile on my face every time I used it.
The IIRC $10 surplus PA windshield wiper motor for toggle switch head manipulation was another very worthwhile improvement, I can provide details if interested.
I did a lot of mods to my RC mill and one that I never regretted was making permanent levers for the head to column locking nuts.
I can't tell you how many times the wrench slipped out of my hands while going back and forth on the three locking nuts before I added the levers.
I added thrust washers while I was at it, making it really easy to clamp tight with very little effort.
For the total cost of about $10 it turned a PITA task into a smile on my face every time I used it.
The IIRC $10 surplus PA windshield wiper motor for toggle switch head manipulation was another very worthwhile improvement, I can provide details if interested.
I might have to do that. My mill has an odd function on the motor mount plate, a 13mm tube angled across the plate. So I found a thrift store 1/2” ratchet ($4!) and socket to match the head bolts. Turned down the ratchet handle to fit the tube, and away we go. Lever to tighten the drive belts, wrench for the head bolts, and storage.
Quill lock implementation.
Bought a 1/2”x10” hex bolt. Cut off the threaded portion, then threaded 1/2”x12tpi using John’s @jcdammeyer ELS threading option on my lathe. Worked flawlessly, even when I had to touch up the thread a bit and had to pick up the thread after I removed the bolt from my lathe.
Concentric drill & tapped the head of the bolt 1/4” UNC.
Picked up a cheap 3/4” offset ratchet wrench.
Cross-drilled the 3/4” hex head for a spring and ball bearing in case the wrench was sloppy.
A few washers and a 1/4” hex cap screw and I have a solid quill lock.
Bought a 1/2”x10” hex bolt. Cut off the threaded portion, then threaded 1/2”x12tpi using John’s @jcdammeyer ELS threading option on my lathe. Worked flawlessly, even when I had to touch up the thread a bit and had to pick up the thread after I removed the bolt from my lathe.
Concentric drill & tapped the head of the bolt 1/4” UNC.
Picked up a cheap 3/4” offset ratchet wrench.
Cross-drilled the 3/4” hex head for a spring and ball bearing in case the wrench was sloppy.
A few washers and a 1/4” hex cap screw and I have a solid quill lock.
I like the ratchet idea. Keep it out of the way but also put it in a good spot for leverage.
About 95% completed. Assembled, VFD added, found a surplus US-made Baldor 2hp 3-phase motor. Found a stand for $40! Added a digital tach. 3-axis DRO on order from eBay, should be here next week.
The VFD is wall-mounted for now, once I figure out exact logistics and build a remote operator panel I’ll put it in a proper cabinet. And then I can properly dress all the cabling. Plus design a more useable belt cover.
All in, including freight, wiring in a 220v outlet, new collet chuck and drill chuck, various bits and pieces, about $1800. I think it worked out a worthwhile purchase.
The VFD is wall-mounted for now, once I figure out exact logistics and build a remote operator panel I’ll put it in a proper cabinet. And then I can properly dress all the cabling. Plus design a more useable belt cover.
All in, including freight, wiring in a 220v outlet, new collet chuck and drill chuck, various bits and pieces, about $1800. I think it worked out a worthwhile purchase.