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R8 collets

Where can I find the thread size, there is nothing in the scant booklet I got with the machine.
I should say the intent is to give me more work height, at the moment I hace an R8 morse collet but I see it like the drill chuck reduces the size of what can be done. I figure the use of R8 collets will gain some in this respect.

You will have to pull the draw bar and measure the dia. and thread pitch. Before buying collets you need to ensure the threads match you draw bar.

R8 collets will buy you the most head room and if you want to bypass using your drill chuck you will need a full set of metric collets. I use a R8-ER20 collet chuck with a full set of metric collets when the drill chuck is a problem. The ER20 collet chuck and collets are a lot cheaper than a full set of metric R8 collets.
 
Being new to the group I wish to play along with how things work but we might as well stay here.
So with my mill being an adfjustable column, I wonder how extending the column might be done. Perhaps at the top?

This might be better answered by someone who has a very similar model. But I do have a Heavy Duty column mill/drill. Regardless, if I were doing it, I'd put the extension at the bottom not at the top. That way you can make it solid and not lose much rigidity. If you put it at the top, the bottom will be tubular and the angular rigidity will be much less.
 
Being new to the group I wish to play along with how things work but we might as well stay here.
So with my mill being an adfjustable column, I wonder how extending the column might be done. Perhaps at the top?
I've seen mini-mill examples where a spacer has been added to the bottom of the column.
 
Being new to the group I wish to play along with how things work but we might as well stay here.
So with my mill being an adfjustable column, I wonder how extending the column might be done. Perhaps at the top?
That is a major modification and you indicated that you are new to the machining hobby. I'd suggest you get acquainted with what you have before spending time or money on increased capacity.

You mentioned Sieg. Is this the mill you have?

4962.480.jpg


Craig
 
The ER20 collet chuck and collets are a lot cheaper than a full set of metric R8 collets.

@eric_brackenbury - Not only what Craig says above, but also keep in mind that you need more R8 collets than er20 or er32. R8 collets don't have the gripping range that ER collets do so you need a finer increment of collets.

I know I'm spending your money, but if I were you, I get an R8 - ER set, and I'd also get a few selected R8 collets - just the ones you need for inexpensive end mills (eg 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 6mm, and 12mm).
 
That is a major modification and you indicated that you are new to the machining hobby. I'd suggest you get acquainted with what you have before spending time or money on increased capacity.

You mentioned Sieg. Is this the mill you have?

4962.480.jpg


Craig

Yes. Please post a few photos. We would all benefit from seeing what you are working with.
 
Were it me, I'd get one 3/4" R8 collet and a bunch of TTS-style holders like this:
(no idea if this is a decent set, it was just a decently priced Amazon search return)

Or an ER20 R8 collect chuck like this and a set of metric ER20 collets.

(Accusize sells decent quality stuff)
 
You will have to pull the draw bar and measure the dia. and thread pitch. Before buying collets you need to ensure the threads match you draw bar.

R8 collets will buy you the most head room and if you want to bypass using your drill chuck you will need a full set of metric collets. I use a R8-ER20 collet chuck with a full set of metric collets when the drill chuck is a problem. The ER20 collet chuck and collets are a lot cheaper than a full set of metric R8 collets.
It appears to me that extending the column might be a better route as I have an R8 collet chuck with collets and I can get metric for that if needed. Seems a better dollar value this way, unless I am wrong and there is flaw in that.
That is a major modification and you indicated that you are new to the machining hobby. I'd suggest you get acquainted with what you have before spending time or money on increased capacity.

You mentioned Sieg. Is this the mill you have?

4962.480.jpg


Craig
This is the one I have
CX612__99286.1613862387.JPG
 

I see. Nice machine!

I would not bother with a post extension unless you can find a good one pre-made to fit the mill and then only at the bottom.

But it looks like it has plenty of Z travel for its size. What are you making that you need more Z travel?

But ya, I think the whole R8-ER20 thing is the way to go with perhaps a few R8 collets in common sizes (1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 6mm, 12mm).

If you need more headroom for drilling, drill bits should work fairly well in the ER collets.

It doesn't look like a better drill chuck will get you anything. It's already pretty compact.
 
My mini-mill came with a 3/8" R8 collet and a 1/2" R8 collet. You can get most imperial endmills with either of those two shanks. You probably don't want to go bigger than 1/2" on that mill anyways.
 
I did get this setup at the start but it cut down on work height.

R8 BRIDGEPORT SHANK ER32 COLLET CHUCK​

18PC ER32 COLLET SET​

B4031H__82656.1602848549.jpg

I think it's perfect. Maybe you lost 2 inches. Still way less than a drill chick. If you really need the 2 inches, then get a few R8 collets but know that don't have the same holding power than ER does.
 
This air spring kit increases your Z travel a little bit. You probably will get one down the road as these mini-mills have a horrible head drop issue.

You forgot the link Craig.

Tell us about the head drop issue. I'm not familiar with it.
 
You forgot the link Craig.

Tell us about the head drop issue. I'm not familiar with it.

Oooops..... fixed.

The head is raised/lowered via a rack and pinion that's rather sloppy. You would be down feeding with the fine feed and the head drops as the pinion picks up a new tooth on the rack. The torsion head support spring isn't stiff enough to prevent it. The air spring supports the head much better and alleviates the problem some what. Shimming the rack closer to the pinion helps as well. All very annoying and documented on the web.

 
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Little Machine Shop has a solid column conversion kit for the X2 mini mills that drastically improves rigidity, as well as a 2” riser block. Also really nice folks to deal with, very knowledgeable and helpful.

 
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