Stellrammer
Well-Known Member
What a great result, I couldn’t come close to that on my poor abused Excello.
Project flycutter.
- Thread starter John Conroy
- Start date
Some of the WD40 Corrosion Inhibitor prices were crazy when I looked, but maybe in the wrong places. Our climate is pretty dry by comparison - good for tools, bad for skin. But I did a test on some freshly machined steel coupon slugs in baggies. #1 metal with a spritz of water (showed rust freckles as expected). #2 this AERVOE from KBC (no corrosion). #3 Canadian Tire gear oil off my shelf (no corrosion). I've meaning to try Fluid Film since I bought some. I find it to be kind of snotty stuff & not easy to remove, but maybe that's by design.
www.kbctools.ca
AERVOE,AERVOE RUST INHIBITOR AEROSOL,1-125-6007,KBC Tools & Machinery
AERVOE,AERVOE RUST INHIBITOR AEROSOL,1-125-6007,KBC Tools & Machinery
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little ol' e
Jus' a hobby guy
Thanks, I haven't tried any of the WD40 products, I will be putting that on my next shopping list to give it a try. Cost aside really, if it works.
@Dabbler and I set out to do some evaluations that would take into account both western and eastern corrosion differences. Originally, we wanted to find and evaluate bulk VCI's. But that objective fell apart after learning that there were none that would satisfy our test environment parameters.
We have yet to complete and agree on the rest of the test results. That will have to wait till this coming fall. For now, I can say that success is not cheap. The WD40 Corrosion Inhibitor is very costly for a very small can. But in our extreme test, it is providing superior performance. So is Liquid Wrench Corrosion Inhibitor.
We will be reporting more fully later this fall. Not much more to be said right now but didn't want to hold out on what we can say so far.
Dabbler
ersatz engineer
the one I've been trying is the Liquid Wrench rust inhibitor, and it works okay in Calgary, but not so well in outdoors rain/snow... Indoors it works great.
Check out the testing by Fireball Tool
The head I showed in the videos is a scrap one but it had the same problems most heads develop, surface flatness out of spec and corrosion that develops around the coolant passages. That's what I want to correct. Probably never have to removed more than .010"A little over 20lbs, OK.
I noticed the chip color, load and formation. I noticed on this project you don't seem to be using coolant
My guess would be, you will be running lower than 350 RPM in time with different inserts when machining cylinder heads perhaps? Interrupted cuts are a bugger in those head castings.
Do you feel as thou the rotating weight mass could eventually do harm to your spindle, bearings or housing over time?
Fluid film has gotten expensive these days, being a car guy myself.
I use mine sparingly these days. I picked up a project Olds in 2021 on the cheap, and its still covered in fluid fill. Probably 1 of those projects that will be sitting long after I kick my clogs..
My brain is telling me, I've got to ask....
How much your taking from those Chev heads ? A compression boost ? Or just clean up for new head gaskets?
I'm not worried about damaging the spindle. The mass of it will smooth out the pounding from interrupted cuts the way a flywheel on an engine smooths power pulses. Keeping the spindle fully retracted and taking light cuts I don't think any damage will occur. I think taking big cuts with my 1.5" roughing end mill probably is harder work.
Fluid film is on sale right now at Princess Auto. I also bought some of the Sea Foam rust inhibitor recommended by Fireball but haven't tried it yet. Corrosion is not much of a problem here like in more humid areas.
Thanks for the info regarding inserts. I do have one holder with a apkt milling insert I haven't tried yet. Chip load is going to be very light as max depth of cut will likely be about .005.
It seems like the world of carbide inserts is a very complicated one. I think most hobby guys try a couple of different ones and pick the one that gives a good result without thinking about all the engineering that goes into the design
It seems like the world of carbide inserts is a very complicated one. I think most hobby guys try a couple of different ones and pick the one that gives a good result without thinking about all the engineering that goes into the design
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The head I have is cast iron but I work on lots.of aluminum ones as well. The cast iron used in North American engines is generally very fine grain high quality stuff so it's nicer to work with than some of the offshore stuff that creates so much dust when machining.
little ol' e
Jus' a hobby guy
It certainly did cut well in the video,
Everything looked amazing!!
I just wasn't sure if you were planning on putting the button cutters in and milling so to speak then skim.
Geez, I'd be temper to stick a stone on the bottom of that and give it a nice Blanchard surface.
That would be an interesting test.
Good to hear you feel safe with your new tool !
That was a nice build!!
I have a humidity gauge in my shop. Talk about dry on the prairie. It's reading 10% right now.
Yeah,14% in mine
Stellrammer
Well-Known Member
The finish you are getting is is making me think about trying out similar operations, traditionally cast iron milling was carried out with ground, double negative inserts. I wonder whether they would hold up better under those conditions than the positive style, a lot of hammering on them ,even under light loads.
I will search through my inventory and try to find some cast iron grade inserts. I have about .065” to take off an in-line six head, don’t really want to do it .004” at a pass though.
Or just let the guys down the road at the automotive shop do it right for $100. Because cast iron dust, making a mess of the head.
I will search through my inventory and try to find some cast iron grade inserts. I have about .065” to take off an in-line six head, don’t really want to do it .004” at a pass though.
Or just let the guys down the road at the automotive shop do it right for $100. Because cast iron dust, making a mess of the head.
Hard to beat $100 down the road. Unless it's really important to you to have the pride of doing it yourself, I'd let them do it. The setup in your shop alone will give you headaches.
Stellrammer
Well-Known Member
I’m on board with that program. I don’t need another squirrel to chase right now, and I do hate cast iron dust. And they have the equipment, the knowledge and they are really nice people.
You should see the horrendous machine marks on this head, from the factory, on sealing surfaces, .015” steps, areas that look like they were chiseled instead of milled.
This is on a head mfgd in 1980, when they should have known better.
I would have thought so too. What's the engine and where was it made?
I assume domestic in 1980. But still the Mexican plants were not great even then.
Stellrammer
Well-Known Member
81 Mustang, 200 ci . In late 79 the 2.8 v6 Cologne engine was no longer available in qty to supply the US market, Ford switched back to the ancient 200 straight six, Lima Ohio.
The late 70s early 80s were dark times in the North American car industry!
