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possible cause and fix for damage to the bearing surface of variator drive cone?

140mower said:
I would think that a bolt together build should be fine, but on the other hand, a great time to improve those welding skills......;)
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I could bolt it then weld it o_O

I guess I have my project for the day.

I already measured the center height of the variator shaft and verified it against the specifications 170mm precisely. so it will need to be a tall brack to hold the shaft. Now to decide on shaft size and bearings required without being over built and costly.
 
140mower said:
Two things to remember, the weldment needs to be clean and the weldor wants to be comfortable....
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I have been able to get more practice in with flux core and am getting more comfortable... but nowhere near as I used to be when I took a college extension night course in welding. I really need to get proper shielding gas sorted soon
 
Yes, things get much cleaner with shielding gas. Most of my welding is stick, as I am generally outside in the wind and too lazy to switch wire in the mig.
I am by no means a weldor and am mostly self taught, but I like to weld, and things tend to stay stuck together, so I am happy with that.
 
140mower said:
Yes, things get much cleaner with shielding gas. Most of my welding is stick, as I am generally outside in the wind and too lazy to switch wire in the mig.
I am by no means a weldor and am mostly self taught, but I like to weld, and things tend to stay stuck together, so I am happy with that.
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Oh dont get me wrong, I love to weld... I love when I can stick metal together in a sculpture and the quality of the weld does not matter, but every time I walk under the tire rack with the huge jeep winter wheels I cringe and ask myself, is this the day these fall on me and kill me?
 
TorontoBuilder said:
Oh dont get me wrong, I love to weld... I love when I can stick metal together in a sculpture and the quality of the weld does not matter, but every time I walk under the tire rack with the huge jeep winter wheels I cringe and ask myself, is this the day these fall on me and kill me?
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That just needs more practice. ;)
Time to grab a few scraps and a hammer. Weld them up and try beating them apart, you'll soon see improvements once you see what works.
After 15 years or so, I still look in the mirrors from time to time with a bit of amusement that the excavator is still back there behind the dumptruck, hanging on the hitch plate I built back in the day.
Practice is key.
 
So, I think I have a painless or relatively painless option.

I'm pretty sure I can have a simple hat shaped bracket bent on a press brake, so really what I need to decide is how thick does the part need to be to be rigid enough to to cause issues. I'd think Mr Metal can knock this out for me cheap, whack off a rectangle with plasma cutter the then two simple bends and bobs your uncle I'd be in business with only needing to machine a axle, and buy two pillow block bearings.

I drew this as 1/2" thick but thinking of something between 7, 6, 5 or 4 gauge should work. If the bends result in minor shift to my centerline I can easily adjust the height with shims under the pillow blocks. The bracket would use the same mounting holes as the variator did so no other modifications to the lathe required.

Only issue is lack of lathe to turn custom shaft...


1669932912612.webp
 
TorontoBuilder said:
So, I think I have a painless or relatively painless option.

I'm pretty sure I can have a simple hat shaped bracket bent on a press brake, so really what I need to decide is how thick does the part need to be to be rigid enough to to cause issues. I'd think Mr Metal can knock this out for me cheap, whack off a rectangle with plasma cutter the then two simple bends and bobs your uncle I'd be in business with only needing to machine a axle, and buy two pillow block bearings.

I drew this as 1/2" thick but thinking of something between 7, 6, 5 or 4 gauge should work. If the bends result in minor shift to my centerline I can easily adjust the height with shims under the pillow blocks. The bracket would use the same mounting holes as the variator did so no other modifications to the lathe required.

Only issue is lack of lathe to turn custom shaft...


View attachment 28443
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This goes against my grain, as I think it does most of us, but you could try a machine shop and see if they can knock one out for you.
Or, better yet, make up a drawing and one of us could probably make one for you, even if it is only for long enough so you can make your own so as to not violate any diy rules. :p
 
140mower said:
This goes against my grain, as I think it does most of us, but you could try a machine shop and see if they can knock one out for you.
Or, better yet, make up a drawing and one of us could probably make one for you, even if it is only for long enough so you can make your own so as to not violate any diy rules. :p
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I did not want to impose on anyone... but hey I'd happily pay a fellow hobbyist to make me one while my lathe is out of service.
 
140mower said:
This goes against my grain, as I think it does most of us, but you could try a machine shop and see if they can knock one out for you.
Or, better yet, make up a drawing and one of us could probably make one for you, even if it is only for long enough so you can make your own so as to not violate any diy rules. :p
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I did see press brake parts for sale locally that I wanted to buy to make bending fixture for the hydraulic shop press. I guess I better get on that. If I knew how to model loads on bent metal parts in fusion I could see if the bracket could be made of 12 gauge and try bending on friends box press which I think is good for 12 gauge
 
I'm going to suggest surface rust cause by moisture during storage followed being run which can cause damage like this as the rust is flacked off and abrades the surfaces.

As to when????

As to fix or solution until I see it first hand I'm a little at a loss.
 
I did more reading and confirmed that the drive balls are machined and supplied as a matched set, sortta like parallels, so I can't just replace the one drive ball IF I can replace it at all.

I can however pull the ball spindles out and reverse them in the balls so that the wear band is flipped in orientation and the more unworn surface is presented to the drive cones.
 
Okay so I am now in possession of an estimate to rebuild my variator. I asked for a quote for a set of drive balls only.This estimate came with some photos of parts listed, all my parts were in excellent shape in comparison to their parts.

I have a few issues with the estimate that makes me lack some confidence in the company.

The first being that I believe the model they believe I have is not correct, because the dimensions chart I have does not coincide with the model number they have provided. The dimensions of my variator don't coincide with all the dimensions in the chart either for that matter. The other issues are that they believe I have a model with 6 balls when in fact I have an earlier model with only 3 drive balls, and finally I requested a quote for parts only not for a rebuild. Their rebuild quoting 6 drive balls also requires double the number of guide rollers, caged needle bearings etc and bloats their estimate and yet they could return the variator with only 3 drive balls and I'd be none the wiser.

Their warranty is only 6 months as well.

That said, here is the quote for in excess of $8000 CAD.

1670014919971.webp


So do this myself as proposed and discussed above... or like everyone else trash it an move on.

By trash it I dont mean toss it in the garbage. @Darren had the great idea of removing the internals and replacing them with a single straight shaft so as to maintain the intermediary step between the motor and the spindle input with the least amount of modification and fuss. This requires no modification to the lathe at all... nor to the variator, the spare parts can be stored for future reversion if desired. Easier to undue than a vasectomy
 
TorontoBuilder said:
By trash it I dont mean toss it in the garbage. @Darren had the great idea of removing the internals and replacing them with a single straight shaft so as to maintain the intermediary step between the motor and the spindle input with the least amount of modification and fuss. This requires no modification to the lathe at all... nor to the variator, the spare parts can be stored for future reversion if desired. Easier to undue than a vasectomy
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...... This sounds like the best solution, both short and long term...... Now get in your jetta and go get that little South Bend. :p;)
 
140mower said:
...... This sounds like the best solution, both short and long term...... Now get in your jetta and go get that little South Bend. :p;)
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insert string of obscenities here... because I love a deal even if just to buy and use for a while and then pass on to someone new, BUT I hate winter so so so damn much, and I have pay as you go insurance on my jetta because I usually drive less than 4,000 kms a year... and I only have all season radials. It's as if that ad was designed to torment me...
 
TorontoBuilder said:
insert string of obscenities here... because I love a deal even if just to buy and use for a while and then pass on to someone new, BUT I hate winter so so so damn much, and I have pay as you go insurance on my jetta because I usually drive less than 4,000 kms a year... and I only have all season radials. It's as if that ad was designed to torment me...
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Pay as you go auto insurance:confused: How does that work?
 
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