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Spring meet up in Ontario, April 6/2024. NEW LOCATION See Post #31 Discussion AND THE
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Maybe I'm paranoid but I just watched the last few Vintage Machinery videos where Keith Rucker nearly stripped a massive nut by trying to go the wrong direction. He then had to drill out the threaded shaft because he'd forced the taper so tight that it refused to be pressed. I can't afford that kind of mistake!
Maybe I'm paranoid but I just watched the last few Vintage Machinery videos where Keith Rucker nearly stripped a massive nut by trying to go the wrong direction. He then had to drill out the threaded shaft because he'd forced the taper so tight that it refused to be pressed. I can't afford that kind of mistake!
Well Ya, don't get silly with it. You're going to find that keeping the spindle from rotating while you torque the nut is a challenge as well. I think I used a crescent wrench on the spindle plines as it torqued the nut loose with the pipe wrench?
Mine may be a little different. I'm trying to separate the head and column where it bolts to the base casting at the line shown below: View attachment 18576
Otherwise, I think it is too much weight for my son and I (well OK, me mainly) to get down the basement stairs.
I can picture a chain going down the column...but what did you secure it to in order to lift the head?
Some thing is not adding up here. I've been weighing everything I strip off this mill with a bathroom scale and came up with this so far. Motor and mount 60 lbs Table, screw and gib 83 lbs Column 98 lbs Head (sans belt cover) 90 lbs...
A couple feet of common 1/2" fine tread ready rod dropped through the center of the spline shaft and a couple flat washers that fit flat to the spindle nose and a couple nuts threaded on the ready rod to keep it from pulling back through and then a chain/cable eye threaded onto the top end and lift the head free of the column....lightest you can make it I think.
Then do the chain dropped down through the column trick Craig mentioned (all you need is to hook the chain hook to the chain creating a small loop, now just run a rod through the loop so it catches across the tube opening) to move the base and column as a single piece ( you don't have to remove the column & chance changing the "plumb" of the machine).
I have moved my entire mill without removing the head, using the chain drop down the column trick for at least 4 moves.
I have done the chain trick on my mill/drill which is massive by comparison. Just put an eye ring on the end of the chain, drop it down the column and then slip a bar through the eye. Then I lifted my entire mill/drill with my overhead. Worked just fine.
A smaller subset should work for you too.
An appliance dolly works wonders for moving big stuff up and down stairs.
@historicalarms That's an approach I haven't seen mentioned elsewhere. The only quibble I have is that my spindle is R8 with a 3/8" drawbar. That would be the max I could pass through, no? Still might be workable.
Also, to clarify, I don't have _any_ chains. I do have a heavy lifting strap.
My plan for lifting was to pass the strap down through the head casting at the point shown with the arrow below, around a chunk of 2X4 and back up.
Very easy to secure, pretty close to balanced, and I could either lift the head free of the column or remove both the column and head from the base this way. Sparber's write-up estimates the head at 110, the column at 85 and the base at 100 pounds. I was planning to strap the head and column to a 2-wheel cart as the head by itself is the most awkward piece to hold onto. Strapped securely to the cart, I think my son and I could get it down the stairs safely. Two guys, one step at a time.
Re column alignment, I haven't mentioned before but 'Bubba' stripped one of the 4 bolts securing the column to the base casting. The previous owner welded up a bracket for the DRO display and used 2 of these bolts to attach it to the machine. I presume he was the one to strip the threads in the casting. I'm planning to buy a 7/16 helicoil to patch it up. Going to a bigger bolt size won't work as there is no room for a bigger bolt head.
Craig
(Hope this posts OK. The site has been acting up this morning.)
Those bolts that hold the column to the base are very important as far as rigidity are concerned.
Is there enough material to go to a bigger bolt with an allen head or a twelve point head?
I would not reuse the original bolts as they may not be the grade that s stamped on the head.
Those bolts that hold the column to the base are very important as far as rigidity are concerned.
Is there enough material to go to a bigger bolt with an allen head or a twelve point head?
I would not reuse the original bolts as they may not be the grade that s stamped on the head.
I don't have any experience with helicoils but I understand they're used on engine blocks and whatnot. They must make a pretty solid repair, no?
Good suggestion on going to larger size allen head bolts. I hadn't considered that route. I'll inspect the casting after I get it apart and decide which way to go at that point.
I got a wide-opening adjustable wrench at Princess Auto this morning so I'm about to see what the nut wants to do this afternoon.
Helicoils are a good permanent fix. Tap the hole far enough and put two in.
Lube the threads and put the bolts in and torque them to the correct Spec.
for that size and grade of bolt.
That’s why I made this it fits in the doorway (when it’s open) supported by both ends in the door jams and the winch hooks in the middle. When in use there is a plywood base (full length) almost as wide as the stairs this sits on the landing and extends over the stairs (3 1/2‘, 4’) that is supported by a 2x6 box keeping it level. To use it first the plywood is put in place that gives you about 4’ overhang over the stairs supported by the 2x6 box to keep it level now the machine can be rolled in place onto the landing when it is in place the frame is put in position and hooked up to the winch then remove the 2x6 box and it can be tipped to slide down the stairs. We used straps so it wouldn’t just slide on the plywood.
The right wrenches make all the difference. Got the nut off with no problem...Bubba left this one alone! Is IS a left-handed thread, though. Here is what I used:
I have a user-made spindle wrench that came with a box lot of milling cutters and whatnot some time ago. Totally paid for itself today.
After that, all it took was a little bit more than hand torque with the gear puller to pop the pulley off the top of spindle.
Since there has been more interest than I expected, I'm going to start a new thread with some more photos of the move.
The right wrenches make all the difference. Got the nut off with no problem...Bubba left this one alone! Is IS a left-handed thread, though. Here is what I used:
I have several of those adjustable wrenches from small to large. I LOVE them. They stay nice and square and adjust easily too. The small nose even acts a bit like a socket at times. GREAT choice!
Photo looks right handed. Maybe I'm paranoid but I just watched the last few Vintage Machinery videos where Keith Rucker nearly stripped a massive nut by trying to go the wrong direction. He then had to drill out the threaded shaft because he'd forced the taper so tight that it refused to be...
