New to me 4” x 36” belt sander

[Chicken lights]

I would re-think that leg shortening on the table if it were me, it will add stability and resist tip-over when pushing a bit on the work piece you are to be grinding.

Another suggestion if you plan on using this sander for wood & metal de-burring ... place it where it can be vacuum cleaned easily.

That was the exact same thing said by a friend of mine, about shortening the legs.

Also, I’m thinking of implementing a no torches/grinding/cutting for an hour before going home rule. I agree, shop safety should come first

I like that it’s on wheels, but having it tapconned into the concrete floor would give it lots of rigidity, too. I guess it’s always a compromise

 

[CalgaryPT]

That was the exact same thing said by a friend of mine, about shortening the legs.

Also, I’m thinking of implementing a no torches/grinding/cutting for an hour before going home rule. I agree, shop safety should come first

I like that it’s on wheels, but having it tapconned into the concrete floor would give it lots of rigidity, too. I guess it’s always a compromise

I'm sure yo know this, but "Hot Work" on job sites follow this rule. You stop hot work 1 hour before shutting down, and one person stays for 1 hour afterwards. It's an insurance requirement.

 

[Chicken lights]

I'm sure yo know this, but "Hot Work" on job sites follow this rule. You stop hot work 1 hour before shutting down, and one person stays for 1 hour afterwards. It's an insurance requirement.

I would’ve filed that under common sense, but I see and agree with your point.

I was thinking of having a largish sign made up, to put near the shop door. Along the lines of:

Going home?

Torches off?
Heat off?
Compressor off?
Lights off?
Door locked?
Torches and grinders done one hour before leaving.

I’m sure I could add to that, and others may chime in. I run through it all now mentally before leaving but a sign may make it into more of a habit? Either that or the sign will get ignored like so many signs do.

 

[CalgaryPT]

I would’ve filed that under common sense, but I see and agree with your point.

I was thinking of having a largish sign made up, to put near the shop door. Along the lines of:

Going home?

Torches off?
Heat off?
Compressor off?
Lights off?
Door locked?
Torches and grinders done one hour before leaving.

I’m sure I could add to that, and others may chime in. I run through it all now mentally before leaving but a sign may make it into more of a habit? Either that or the sign will get ignored like so many signs do.

 

[Tom Kitta]

Common sense is not as common as many people think it is

 

[CalgaryPT]

Great idea. Here's a thought...

On the compressor topic--I like to always have my 60 gal tank ready to go, and for years left it charged and heard it cycle at night because ALL compressor lines leak. Mine are hard plumbed 1/2" black pipe, but still drain down (as all do). The solution for me was a 1/2" ball valve next to the tank (between the whip line and the downloop) that I shut off when not using the compressor.

This means my compressor pressure switch is left on AUTO, and I always have 60 gals at 95-130 PSI ready. But the pressure switch only cycles about once a week (or even less) now.

When needed, I just cock the ball valve open and use the air. I close it off when done. The tank recharges normally, but I don't have any air loss through the distribution lines. The only air loss is through the minimal couplings before the downloop. Thus, the tank stays charged until needed, and the compressor cycles minimally. The closer your ball valve to the tank, the less air loss due to distribution lines and couplings, and thus the fewer times your compressor cycles. Compressor manufacturers tell you to put a value as close as possible to your tank, but they don't tell you why. This is why.

If you look closely at my setup you see a paper maintenance tag hanging from the tank where I record all oil changes. If I had figured this trick out years ago, I could have reduced the wear and tear on the motor and compressor probably 85%.

Works like a charm. Cursing myself for all that power consumption of 220V @ 11 Amps for 20 years. I also stress out less about another fire hazard at night. Duhhh.

 

[Chicken lights]

I ran 3/4” rubber line, from the compressor, to 3/4” copper line. Down one wall about 25 feet, then to an air dryer. Tee’d off a couple air line fittings, one small one large. Then rubber line three feet up the wall to 3/4” black pipe. Ran that about forty feet down the next wall, one air line fitting drop then about another twenty feet by the door for a final air line drop. The farthest two drops went down to 1/2” pipe on the down legs, then went to 3/8 for the air line coupler.

Other than the air drier and the last length of 1/2” pipe, I’m almost 100 feet from my compressor to the last drop but it’s pretty much 3/4” pipe the whole way.

I would have to look and see if I left the ball valve on the compressor outlet, it came from the factory plumbed with one right there

 

[CalgaryPT]

If you're getting no drain with that length of setup you are a God.

 

[Chicken lights]

I wouldn’t say no drain, but it is minimal.

We really need a shop sub-forum for talking about, well, shops

 

[Dr.Fiero]

Man walks into a bar carrying an anvil....

Oh man.... this story is about to get heavy.

 

[Chicken lights]

I did leave the ball valve on the compressor.

I don’t remember if it was Sunday or Monday I last used the compressor. It still had air in the tank, I only shut the power off when I leave. So if that’s how much it leaks in a few days, I’ll take it happily

 

[CalgaryPT]

I never really thought about the purpose of the value, but once I started shutting it off when not needed I really saw the difference. I'm an insomniac so up most of the night and often read in a room directly above the compressor. Prior to discovering this trick I would hear it at least once a night. After shutting the value off when not using it I estimate it kicks in once a week or less (not including when I am using it). Based on a 15 min cycle time that's less than 1% of the time. From what I have read rubber and nylon lines still leak marginally through the walls. Hard pipe doesn't, but the couplings are more prone to drainage. Rubber and composite aren't recommended for other than the whip hose connection from the tank to the hard pipe system (to address vibration issues), or for distribution to tools after the dryer/oil catch. I looked for an article on the reasons to avoid flex hose on longer runs but couldn't find it; I do recall for plasma systems it is a no-no. I think it promotes moisture. With pipe and a hard downloop system (see pic) you shouldn't have any problem in Calgary if using even a cheap water catch system. The guy who helped me has built shop air for plasma systems for 20 years. The downloop is key apparently--and more effective than even desiccants in a low humidity city like Calgary. In dry climates like Calgary I understand desiccant filters can actually harm consumables.

I suppose I could put a gauge on it like inspectors do with gas and measure loss over time. I'm sure my setup of 20' has leaks that could be improved upon. Over the years I have used rubber, nylon and composite hose, IPEX (bad idea), copper (expensive), galvanized (bad idea), proprietary air kits and black pipe. I've used everything on joints including Teflon dope, tape and pipe dope. Everything leaks except copper in my experience, and even soft copper with fittings can still drain. For me, black pipe is the best because it is affordable, and readily available. I used to thread my own with a Ridgid Type 300 machine (or rather its predecessor in the 1980s). But now I just buy pre-threaded lengths.

I guess what I am saying is that it's possible to have a better setup that mine with less drainage just by being more anal with your connections and testing everything. Hats off to people who achieve no loss, or less loss than me. I wish I could do this. But the cheapest and most effective solution I have discovered that allows my marginal pipefitting skills to meet my needs without a lot of hassle or expense at this point in my life is black pipe and a ball valve. If I ever forget to shut it off I am reminded when I hear the compressor kick in at 3 AM. I open the door to the garage and cock the ball valve and I don't hear it again for a week.

Not bad for a $15 valve.

There...I've tapped out my knowledge of compressor cycling tricks.

 

[Tom O]

I've been using the desiccant filter type from princess auto but am switching to a Drystream air system from KSM for my spindle. I haven't had any problems with a desiccant but it is not as good as a air dryer.

 

[Chicken lights]

I’ve had good luck using Masters orange pipe tape. It’s designed for pipe fitting.

I do use the liquid pipe dope or liquid thread sealant too, when it calls for it.

I’m happy with how it turned out, although if I did it over again I’d run all the piping at eight feet or higher, and just run the drops where I want air line couplings. As it is now the first 20’ is at 4’ high, the other 60’-70’ feet is at 8’ high