Great idea. Here's a thought...
On the compressor topic--I like to always have my 60 gal tank ready to go, and for years left it charged and heard it cycle at night because ALL compressor lines leak. Mine are hard plumbed 1/2" black pipe, but still drain down (as all do). The solution for me was a 1/2" ball valve next to the tank (between the whip line and the downloop) that I shut off when not using the compressor.
This means my compressor pressure switch is left on AUTO, and I always have 60 gals at 95-130 PSI ready. But the pressure switch only cycles about once a week (or even less) now.
When needed, I just cock the ball valve open and use the air. I close it off when done. The tank recharges normally, but I don't have any air loss through the distribution lines. The only air loss is through the minimal couplings before the downloop. Thus, the tank stays charged until needed, and the compressor cycles minimally. The closer your ball valve to the tank, the less air loss due to distribution lines and couplings, and thus the fewer times your compressor cycles. Compressor manufacturers tell you to put a value as close as possible to your tank, but they don't tell you why. This is why.
If you look closely at my setup you see a paper maintenance tag hanging from the tank where I record all oil changes. If I had figured this trick out years ago, I could have reduced the wear and tear on the motor and compressor probably 85%.
Works like a charm. Cursing myself for all that power consumption of 220V @ 11 Amps for 20 years. I also stress out less about another fire hazard at night. Duhhh.
