New project, redneck power feed

[PeterT]

Not that I don't appreciate a good homebrew retrofit but aren't the parts approaching an off the shelf powerfeed with 120AC wall plug-in, limit switch hardware etc? I think think they are even cheaper on Ali but I haven't looked, plus shipping etc.
Or maybe a space constraint on your mill?

 

[DavidR8]

For a benchtop mill this is a style of power that is typically used.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Best-price-...871573?hash=item23a6f41d95:g:9asAAOSwLnlWniCx

 

[PeterT]

That's exactly what I had on my RF-45 mill, David. (Find my post on better way to mount it, that cast aluminum iron clamp is bad news).
Maybe my memory is foggy but I thought they were cheaper yet.

 

[YYCHM]

Maybe my memory is foggy but I thought they were cheaper yet.

The BP Knee mill style units can be had for less than $200 CDN. The bench mill Horizontal units are going for just over $300 CDN.

 

[PeterT]

Ya I'm mixed up then, sorry about that. I remember paying around $350 for my horizontal, but for some reason the bigger motor, higher torque verticals cost less. Must be about the accessories or something. I also seem to recall its the same 150 unit on end but different gear/adapter.

 

[thriller007]

The easiest way to convert those is with a relay. to simplify the wiring I would recommend buying some different limit switches. search for Omron limit switches.

OK so it’s my bad for not looking at these limit switches correctly. Of course they do have a normally open or normally closed circuit. They are rated for a half amp at 125 V DC. The maximum I’m running through with the power supply I’m using is 19 V and the maximum amp draw that I can get is .2 Amps when trying to hold the table stopped and running the motor. So if volts x amps equals watts then 19v x .2a is 3.8 watts. What the micro switch is rated for is 125v x .5a is 62.5 watts. So from what I can see they should work with plenty of room. But I’m not that smart when it comes to this electrical stuff so hopefully somebody can either confirm or deny my theory here. I also measured using a cheap clamp on meter clamping over just the one motor lead. Thank you in advance.

 

[Johnwa]

Watts have no meaning for a switch. Current rating is how much they can carry without burning out regardless of the voltage. The voltage rating is the voltage they can safely interrupt. This is closely related to how far apart the open contacts are.
The amps may be de rated at higher voltage to take into account a higher temperature arc.

 

[Dusty]

Thanks @Dusty,
Best of the season to you and yours as well!

This is the motor I bought:
https://makermotor.com/pn01007-1003...ear-motor-12v-low-speed-100-rpm-gearmotor-dc/
This controller:
https://makermotor.com/pwm12v10a-12v-dc-pwm-speed-controller-reverse-polarity-protected-10a/
This power supply:
https://www.banggood.com/AC110V-or-...p-1457072.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN

Could you expand on where you purchased the motor and controller, where are they meaning sales location???

 

[DavidR8]

Could you expand on where you purchased the motor and controller, where are they meaning sales location???

I purchased both from the Makermotor site. I kept running into the same motor and controller on eBay and Amazon so I just went direct to their store.

 

[thriller007]

Watts have no meaning for a switch. Current rating is how much they can carry without burning out regardless of the voltage. The voltage rating is the voltage they can safely interrupt. This is closely related to how far apart the open contacts are.
The amps may be de rated at higher voltage to take into account a higher temperature arc.

Ok thanks. either way I am pulling less than the .5 amps at 125vdc as I am only pulling .2 amps with 19vdc.

On another topic I measured and am getting 14 in./min. at 100% speed and if I’m down at 20% speed I am getting about 2.5 in./min. it seems to work pretty good. I have about $60 into it plus some spare parts I had kicking around. Power feeds are great