Must have hand tools?

[Downwindtracker2]

I picked up an 2" angle machinist vise at BB. The display was Groz, but the packaged one was Soba. They said they were the same. I think if it's got a brand name, the quality might be better.

 

[Dabbler]

The Soba one won't be too far out. Groz is okay, but not quite as good as Soba.

 

[John Conroy]

I'll definitely post here when I receive the caliper.

Meanwhile Santa put this under the tree for me this year.(my wife checked my wish list at KBC)

 

[Downwindtracker2]

I use to highlight things in the Lee Valley catalogue.

 

[Chicken lights]

6-a good offshore 0-1" micrometer. They seem to work as well as the big 3, but will wear out faster. Gives you time to buy a top of the line one. Make sure it has a standard with it.

I have this little guy, Crowne and Sharp?

What’s a standard?

 

[PeterT]

More than likely Brown & Sharp. A good name.

A standard is a precision length of rod that you calibrate your micrometer to. It would be 1.000" +/- some accurate tolerance for a 0-1 micrometer. So after careful cleaning, if your mic was reading under like 0.9995 or over 1.0005 you adjust it to read 1.0000" Some guys feel its important to calibrate to a mid range, but that's another discussion.

 

[Downwindtracker2]

It's Brown and Sharp , better than Starrett,. Early ones were made in Rhode Island ,later ones in Switzerland .

 

[John Conroy]

This is half or less of the typical price for a mitutoyo. Given the seller I’m skeptical it’s genuine. Let us know if it’s good when you get it John.

You were right John, I received the "Mitutoyo" caliper and using information in the 2 links below as well as a genuine one from work I have determined it is a counterfeit. I have submitted a return request to Amazon, we'll see what happens.

https://orcinus24x5.tumblr.com%2Fpost%2F85895171143
It is a pretty good fake, the only thing that prevents me from keeping it is the play in the jaws as shown in the Isik's Tech video.

This is a list things that confirm it is a fake.
-the label on the back of the head says "Serlal No instead of "Serial No"
-The label on the back says "U.S. PAt" instead of "U.S Pat."
-The locking knob can be removed on the fake, this is not true of a genuine one.
-the least significant digit is half the size of the others where it the same size as the others on a genuine one.
-the serial number on the caliper is different than the one on the inspection document.
-there is about 1 mm of slop between the jaws like Isak's video shows, the genuine one has no play.
-the access holes on the plastic cover do not line up correctly with the adjustment screws on the caliper head
-the instructions on the label on the back say you need to hold the "zero/abs" button for 2 seconds to switch from "inc" to "abs" modes. this one switches instantly. The genuine one at work functions the way the label describes.

Some other observations: The outer cardboard sleeve on this one has very faded looking graphics like is described Isik's video. There is no battery with the caliper. It does not have silky smooth movement like the genuine one at work.

Here you can see
-the label on the back of the head says "Serlal No instead of "Serial No"



Here you can see
-the least significant digit is half the size of the others where it the same size as the others on a genuine one.



Here you can see
-the access holes on the plastic cover do not line up correctly with the adjustment screws on the caliper head



Here you can see
-the serial number on the caliper is different than the one on the inspection document.



I think this is actually the best cheap caliper I have ever seen. If they quit trying to sell them as counterfeits I might actually buy one and pay $65 for it. but I hate liars so I'm going to return it.


I know, I know, you only get what you pay for, right?

 

[DPittman]

You were right John, I received the "Mitutoyo" caliper and using information in the 2 links below as well as a genuine one from work I have determined it is a counterfeit. I have submitted a return request to Amazon, we'll see what happens.

https://orcinus24x5.tumblr.com%2Fpost%2F85895171143
It is a pretty good fake, the only thing that prevents me from keeping it is the play in the jaws as shown in the Isik's Tech video.

This is a list things that confirm it is a fake.
-the label on the back of the head says "Serlal No instead of "Serial No"
-The label on the back says "U.S. PAt" instead of "U.S Pat."
-The locking knob can be removed on the fake, this is not true of a genuine one.
-the least significant digit is half the size of the others where it the same size as the others on a genuine one.
-the serial number on the caliper is different than the one on the inspection document.
-there is about 1 mm of slop between the jaws like Isak's video shows, the genuine one has no play.
-the access holes on the plastic cover do not line up correctly with the adjustment screws on the caliper head
-the instructions on the label on the back say you need to hold the "zero/abs" button for 2 seconds to switch from "inc" to "abs" modes. this one switches instantly. The genuine one at work functions the way the label describes.

Some other observations: The outer cardboard sleeve on this one has very faded looking graphics like is described Isik's video. There is no battery with the caliper. It does not have silky smooth movement like the genuine one at work.

Here you can see
-the label on the back of the head says "Serlal No instead of "Serial No"



Here you can see
-the least significant digit is half the size of the others where it the same size as the others on a genuine one.



Here you can see
-the access holes on the plastic cover do not line up correctly with the adjustment screws on the caliper head



Here you can see
-the serial number on the caliper is different than the one on the inspection document.



I think this is actually the best cheap caliper I have ever seen. If they quit trying to sell them as counterfeits I might actually buy one and pay $65 for it. but I hate liars so I'm going to return it.


I know, I know, you only get what you pay for, right?

Damn liars! Ooo that makes me mad! I'm not surprised of course but I'm always hoping for honesty. I ordered one also but haven't received mine yet. I guess all I really am hoping for is an improvement over my Canadian Tire calipers. But just on principle I should return them as soon as I get them.

I have a dial test indicator that I ordered through Amazon and it took some time to arrive (slow boat from China). Pictured is what I received. It's a "MitutDgD". That part is maybe forgiveable but what is not is " Made in Japan". Liars!
However, the good news is it seems pretty good. I compared mine to a borrowed top quality one and although my counterfeit did not seem quite as smooth, I consistently got the same readings as the quality instrument. LOL! Mine was also dirt cheap.

Don

 

[Chicken lights]

Is there a standard size to buy?

Do you measure in the middle or end to end?

 

[Dabbler]

Don, "ThisOldTony" did a really good video on the "MitutDyD" test indicator. worth watching, even if you are happy with it.

Chicken, any standard will do. they are just a precise rod (at 23 degrees C mind you) - similar to a Jo block, but much cheaper. As long as your caliper matches the stated size, you are good. Note if you have a 13" Mic, you need a 13" standard. - the bigger ones wander more easily than a 0-1".

 

[PeterT]

There is a Mitutoyo sale on at Thomas Skinner right now. Not sure how that is stacking up to other dealers but I know for a fact they carry legit Mitutoyo. Sometimes its a general Mitutoyo sale that extends to other machinery suppliers so check around, FOB vs. shipping etc.
http://www.thomasskinner.com/contentonly.aspx?file=specials/Top Picks FALL WINTER 2018 Thomas Skinner.pdf

 

[PeterT]

The battery covers are noticeably different.
Note where the A of Absolute starts relative to the swirl & other graphics anomalies. I'm kind of amazed by this actually because fakers must have access to digital scanning hardware, so it must be the width of their computer screen at magnification, so how do you screw this up? I mean if you are going to deceive, at least take some pride in your work man! LOL

 

[DPittman]

I mean if you are going to deceive, at least take some pride in your work man! LOL

Deceivers have no pride, they just do whatever it takes to deceive.
I gotta say tho they "look" like purty good replicas, at least on the surface.

 

[DPittman]

Don, "ThisOldTony" did a really good video on the "MitutDyD" test indicator. worth watching, even if you are happy with it.

I will go watch that video now thanks, but I'm sensing I won't be so happy with my fake dti afterwards!

 

[John Conroy]

At KBC they are on sale now for $150 with another $20 off for spending over $150. So the price is $130 plus $8.95 shipping. I might just go for that.

https://www.kbctools.ca/default.asp...emcode=1-808-500196&catlist=10199&parent=9154

 

[John Conroy]

Same price at KMS as at Thomas Skinner

https://m.kmstools.com/mitutoyo-6-absolute-digimatic-caliper-93067

 

[PeterT]

I will go watch that video now thanks!

post the link, I couldn't find it

 

[PeterT]

any standard will do. they are just a precise rod (at 23 degrees C mind you) - similar to a Jo block, but much cheaper. As long as your caliper matches the stated size, you are good. Note if you have a 13" Mic, you need a 13" standard. - the bigger ones wander more easily than a 0-1".

So this is another route to consider. If you are ever contemplating setting up angles one day like with a sine bar, accurately measuring slots, keyways, granite plate layout / height comparisons & many other applications... then a gage block set is nice to have. I might be wrong but I think you could use that just as well to calibrate your measurement devices & it would span a larger range. A lot of times standards come with mics so this issue doesn't arise, but if you have to buy one anyways....? I'm not advocating these guys, just showing a typical offshore set.
https://www.accusizetools.com/81-pc-set-steel-gage-block-set/

I read an opinion somewhere that there is nothing magical about using a 1" standard on a 1" mic, particularly if you are looking for accurate measurements at say 0.2" or 20% of its travel. The screw may be deviated or worn such that it may well be dialed in at its near max range extremity but not necessarily in the mid range range where you commonly use it. They were saying you could just as easily put a 0.2500" gage block in the jaws & adjust the barrel on that basis so its reading 0.2500". Makes sense to me but I'm not really that up to speed on metrology. Or maybe that was a diagnostic check that maybe the mic was no longer to be trusted?

 

[Dabbler]

My aging brain! First this was a video on a MituDyD test indicator... oops second, it was Dudley Toolwright... - must be getting really old!

So I remember that AvE did a review on the Mitutoyo clone that is very entertaining...