MashingMetal
Ultra Member
I am just going down the VFD route with my lathe set up. It really isn’t hard and the benefits just to tweak the speed to avoid harmonics and get a little more top end for carbide and small parts are worth it.
Just a heads up that the shaft size on your existing motor is likely metric and may be harder to find a direct match in a replacement motor.
That means that the motor is a capacitor start & run, no centrifugal switch inside. The likelihood of the motor being recoverable is low.Tons of great advice thanks ALL;
-I spun the motor by hand and hit the power and just get a humming sound and the shaft locks into place and quivers
-The motor has a singe capacitor on it
-No clicking sound when powered on
Wiring up a VFD is easy !Just a thought, I looked at my mill and why not just order a replacement motor from BusyBee, and put it on the lathe, forward reverse switch and emergency stop with green power on button, that I can wire up as the electrical on the mill is the "road map." I just replaced my upright compressor motor with a new one and the wiring diagram was really straight forward 110/220 and it is a 2 capacitor unit.
I have been looking at how to wire a VFD for a while now but still haven't found the perfect confidence building instructional video.
no guts no glory;
If I were to tackle a vfd one of my roadblocks is what goes with what, motor/VFD compatibility.
I'll pull the motor off today and have a poke around with it on the bench.
I think this is the route I will go, now the motor hunt is on, just missed a suitable one in FB marketplace here, however I don't mind buying new, not interested in inheriting someone else's problems; I have 220 in my little shop.That means that the motor is a capacitor start & run, no centrifugal switch inside. The likelihood of the motor being recoverable is low.
Wiring up a VFD is easy !
Only three wires and only two of them will be powered. I am assuming USA 110v-neutral-110v plus earth. 220 volts across two wires. The live wires will go to the L and N on the VFD, the earth connection will go to the earth terminal. That leaves only three wires plus earth to be connected to the motor. It won't matter which way they are connected, because if the motor runs in reverse just swap any two wires. Don't forget the earth terminal. This one should be connected to the main earth system.
The rest is just setting up and should be done carefully in conjunction with the handbook.
WARNING: Do not use the existing forward and reverse switches on the machine only the ones on the VFD. The stop switch should be wired before the VFD, to ensure that power is completely removed when stopped.
Buy a motor suitably rated for use with a VFD, some are not !
lots of encouragement here, thank youI am just going down the VFD route with my lathe set up. It really isn’t hard and the benefits just to tweak the speed to avoid harmonics and get a little more top end for carbide and small parts are worth it.
I'll do some research tonight on those VFD's, from looking they're not too expensive and it sure beats even trying to figure out the stock wiring as I had to pull the contractors out and clean them and it took me three days to trace 1 wrongly placed wire from the photos I took before hand. The easy route would just be to swap out the motor for the same, but as I mentioned before, no guts no glory.Don't feel like you MUST use a VFD rated motor. You really don't. All of mine are and I like the additional rpm range this gives me. But if you use the gearing that is already built into your lathe, you need not worry about using the VFD to adjust your speed plus or minus 25% that's +/- 15 Hz and if you keep the power levels down +/- 20 Hz is not unreasonable. Just keep an eye on motor and bearing temperatures. But ya, if you want to push that, then by all means get a VFD rated motor. They typically come turn down ratings of 10:1, 20:1 and even 1000:1. 10 & 20:1 motors are not usually outrageously priced.
If you have a nearby pump vendor, they will often have new and unused take-off vfd rated motors.
Personally, I favour the idea of using a VFD to fine-tune the RPM and/or adjust rpm as you turn a part down to smaller circumferences to keep surface feet up.
As others have said, for basic settings, it really isn't rocket science and we do have a few members that dream about VFDs while on vacation.... Lots of help available if you are patient.
One piece of advice from me is to look for a VFD that supports sectorless vector control mode. It's amazing what this mode will do to the smoothness of a motor. It uses its own internal measurements of back emf and current flow to figure out where the motor is without physical sensors and adjust the controls to give real-time feedback to the output.
You may not use this feature initially, but someday you will be glad to have it available.
The easy route would just be to swap out the motor for the same, but as I mentioned before, no guts no glory.
I do like the vfd route, and I see some vfd's have a removable face with an extension cord tucked in behind it. A fella could extend that cord if needed and mount the controls in place of the old buttonsThe opposite of that is to figure out how to use or modify the existing controls to integrate the VFD. That's definitely the guts route, but the glory part might be visible from the Pacific to the Atlantic...
It's very easy to mount a SPDT switch for fwd/off/rev and a potentiometer for speed control in a box and mount it on the lathe. Also easier to use than membrane switches on a little keypad.I do like the vfd route, and I see some vfd's have a removable face with an extension cord tucked in behind it. A fella could extend that cord if needed and mount the controls in place of the old buttons
Interesting comment, I have found his videos and instructions first rate. I'm quite impressed with his teaching skills. IMHO he often takes a somewhat complicated or generally unknown topic and explains it in a way that less knowledgeable people can understand. I would give him a 10/10. I wonder what people don't like?Some folks don't like Clough42 but I converted my mill to 3-phase motor and VFD based on his videos. I bought the same VFD as he used and it was really straightforward.
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I do like the vfd route, and I see some vfd's have a removable face with an extension cord tucked in behind it. A fella could extend that cord if needed and mount the controls in place of the old buttons
No idea. I also think he's a good teacher.Interesting comment, I have found his videos and instructions first rate. I'm quite impressed with his teaching skills. IMHO he often takes a somewhat complicated or generally unknown topic and explains it in a way that less knowledgeable people can understand. I would give him a 10/10. I wonder what people don't like?
Interesting comment, I have found his videos and instructions first rate. I'm quite impressed with his teaching skills. IMHO he often takes a somewhat complicated or generally unknown topic and explains it in a way that less knowledgeable people can understand. I would give him a 10/10. I wonder what people don't like?
Be very careful if you go down this route ! There should not be any switching between the VFD and the motor. Use the VFD to do the forward and reverse functions , also the speed control and braking. The supplied handbook will give you all the information that you need.The opposite of that is to figure out how to use or modify the existing controls to integrate the VFD. That's definitely the guts route, but the glory part might be visible from the Pacific to the Atlantic...
Be very careful if you go down this route ! There should not be any switching between the VFD and the motor. Use the VFD to do the forward and reverse functions , also the speed control and braking.
The supplied handbook will give you all the information that you need.
perfect, thanksThat's, why it's called the guts route.
Your cautions all apply regardless of which route you choose.
Hahahaha! That's rich! Even the better models have manuals that are difficult to understand. In my opinion, that is one of the reasons why so many people are scared of VFDs. They are written by foreign engineers and translated by AI or someone who doesn't really speak English.
It would be so much better if they had a basic hookup & basic programming chapter right up front. It isn't rocket science, but they sure do try to make it seem that way.
The other problem we seem to encounter frequently is the open box scenario. Someone was in there before us and messed up the programming. Worse, the return to factory reset doesn't always work the way it should either. I had two like that.
I'm not trying to scare anybody here, but that's why this forum is such a great resource. Often WAAAY better than the manual.
My version of what you said is "Don't let the manual scare you"! Followed by "Don't be afraid to ask questions here!"