• Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.

Metal lathe options

RobinHood

Ultra Member
Premium Member
@Susquatch kind of beat me to it… good points.


The facing and turning tools will leave a fairly nice finish by chiping if only half a mm is cut; but if a depth of 1mm or more is cut the tool leaves a rough finish. How much force should I deliver when cutting a depth of 1mm or more?


A 1mm depth of cut (~40 thou) [2 mm (~80 thou) off the diameter] in stainless steel seems quite aggressive to me for your lathe.

The inserts should not be glowing; they are rubbing if they do. 1/2“ tooling may be too tall for that size lathe; it is more rigid than than the smaller 3/8 tooling. If you were to use 3/8” tooling, you could shim them for correct height easier than grinding off the bottoms of 1/2” tooling. Unless you have a surface grinder (or a T&CG) it is hard to get the bottoms flat with a bench grinder. If the bottom is not flat, the tool will not sit properly on your tool post and may be pulled out of it because it flexes and you could end up with a crash. Tops of tooling can be ground off as the set screws will take care of any unevenness. Bottoms need to milled off or ground flat with some precision.

From the picture(s) you posted, those inserts are probably not the best for either SS or brass. They look too ”dull” to me.

You might be better off with sharp HSS tooling and reduced speeds. Videos I have seen shows folks using a lot of speed to compensate for the lack of torque on these smaller motors. It “burns up” inserts (or HSS tooling) and the surface finishes suffer if there are any tool height issues, no coolant is used, or the speeds & feed rates are off.

The fastest way to see if your tool is at the correct height (without a tool height gauge) is to do a facing cut. Start with the tool eyeballed slightly below center and take a cut. You then adjust the height UP in small increments until the little nub in the center you had because you were too low, gets cut off cleanly. Now you are on center.
 

Chris Cramer

Super User
Vendor
Premium Member
The hight of the tool post itself cannot be adjusted. Shims are used to change the height of the tool, which can only raise the tool. That is why I need to remove material from the shank to get them to the correct height. Your probably right that the tool shanks are supposed to be 3/8 instead of 1/2.
 

Chris Cramer

Super User
Vendor
Premium Member
From the picture(s) you posted, those inserts are probably not the best for either SS or brass. They look too ”dull” to me.
Yeah, that is what I figured. If they are carbide I'm wondering if I could Sharpen them. I have a good amount of sharpening equipment that I use for both my knives and for carbide gravers.
 

Chris Cramer

Super User
Vendor
Premium Member
Tops of tooling can be ground off as the set screws will take care of any unevenness. Bottoms need to milled off or ground flat with some precision.
That is a good point, I would have to use an even backing pad used with abrasive discs to grind the bottom very even. Removing material from the bottom is literally the only way to bring the tool down. Grinding the top would only add more space to raise the tool.
 
Last edited:

DavidR8

Scrap maker
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
When I had my 10" South Bend I ran 3/8 HSS tooling. Less metal to grind away and the lathe didn't benefit from the rigidity of 1/2" tooling. You would be well served to grind of a two piece set of 1/4" or 3/8" HSS tooling.
There is an excellent primer on grinding HSS tools on Hobby Machinist. The thread starter, a chap named Mikey was able to take a .050 depth of cut in 12L14 steel on a Sherline lathe using these grinds.
 
Last edited:

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
@Chris Cramer - my sincere advice is that you should drop this idea of modifying your tools to fit and just go buy the right size that can be shimmed up. For right now, your priority should be learning how to use your lathe not learning how to grind the bottom of a tool flat enough to work properly. Even if you think it's flat, it prolly won't be, and that will only cause other problems.

Yes, you can grind inserts. No its not a job for a beginner and it requires tools you don't have. You would be better off learning how to grind HSS. For now, just go buy one or two pre-ground HSS cutting tools.
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
There are many many ways to find center. Another quick and dirty way is to use a shim or a small metal ruler pinched between the tip of the tool and the round stock you are turning. The shim or ruler will be vertical when the tool is on center, and slanted forward or backward when it is not.
 

CWret

Ultra Member
Premium Member
There are lots of ways to determine if your tools are set on center. But I highly recommend that everyone's very first project should be to make a lathe height gauge for their lathe.
Great advice for a newbie to a lathe - or someone (like me) that has a lathe on his ‘soon to be acquired list’
 

CWret

Ultra Member
Premium Member
If the bottom is not flat, the tool will not sit properly on your tool post and may be pulled out of it because it flexes and you could end up with a crash.
This thread has been full of good basic advice for a newbie. Learning from mistakes is great way to learn, but if a bit of advice can avoid a crash - that’s even better.
Thanks guys.
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
This thread has been full of good basic advice for a newbie. Learning from mistakes is great way to learn, but if a bit of advice can avoid a crash - that’s even better.
Thanks guys.

You are a lot closer than Chris is. A day trip to a certain farm 2-1/2 hours drive West of you would give you the equivalent of a year's worth of learning on your own and might save you some costly mistakes. It would be best to do that after you get a lathe to practice on, but doing it before hand might help you decide what you want and avoid some costly experiential learning too.
 

CWret

Ultra Member
Premium Member
It would be best to do that after you get a lathe to practice on, but doing it before hand might help you
Road trip :) :) :) !!
Thanks a lot for the offer.
How about before and after. Besides - id like a few 100 pointers on ‘how to improve my milling skills’.
 

trlvn

Ultra Member
Great advice for a newbie to a lathe - or someone (like me) that has a lathe on his ‘soon to be acquired list’
Are you looking at new or used? What kind of capacity and features do you want? Maybe we can help with the thought process?

Craig
 

CWret

Ultra Member
Premium Member
What kind of capacity and features do you want?
Thanks Craig- when i get closer to seriously pulling the trigger I will certainly reach out to the Forum for more advice. Too many balls in the air right now to try and juggle another one.

@David_R8 that was Chris that already bought one - I don’t have a lathe yet, but this thread has been helpful as I close in on what I want. Now I just want a lathe. When it becomes a need - well that’s a completely different thing.

Another perspective of me getting a lathe into my garage is: I am ‘involved’ with lathe research. When i get ‘committed’ to finding a lathe - well that’s a completely different thing.
Kinda like bacon and eggs for breakfast. The chicken is ‘involved’ while the pig is ‘committed’.
 

DavidR8

Scrap maker
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Thanks Craig- when i get closer to seriously pulling the trigger I will certainly reach out to the Forum for more advice. Too many balls in the air right now to try and juggle another one.

@David_R8 that was Chris that already bought one - I don’t have a lathe yet, but this thread has been helpful as I close in on what I want. Now I just want a lathe. When it becomes a need - well that’s a completely different thing.

Another perspective of me getting a lathe into my garage is: I am ‘involved’ with lathe research. When i get ‘committed’ to finding a lathe - well that’s a completely different thing.
Kinda like bacon and eggs for breakfast. The chicken is ‘involved’ while the pig is ‘committed’.
Sorry! I got a bit lost in the thread!
 

Ironman

Ultra Member
That tool post is one that I had about 40 years ago. To set the cutter to center you shim under the insert tool holder. If you cant get below center or down to centerline you may need a smaller insert holder.
 

Chris Cramer

Super User
Vendor
Premium Member
I purchased some 3/8 HSS tool blanks and watched a video on the grinding of a basic cutting tool. My new tool centers perfectly on top of a shim I made and cuts brass very easily.The part you see in these pictures is a shank that was for my old drill press chuck that I am modifying to fit in the tail stock for drilling. It is most likely made of very hard tool steel that is harder than the HSS of this tool, because the new tool could not cut it. Only the carbide tool that I successfully ground down evenly could cut it at center leaving thin hot strings and Lots of sparks from the stock which is another indication of high carbon.
 

Attachments

  • 20240108_235755.jpg
    20240108_235755.jpg
    227.9 KB · Views: 34
  • 20240108_234932.jpg
    20240108_234932.jpg
    324.3 KB · Views: 32

Bandit

Super User
Generally, you do not want to see sparks when cutting on the lathe/mill even with carbide tool bits. I am not sure how rigid your head stock is, with that much overhang out of the chuck,try to get the tail stock supporting the end of your material. It may/can help reduce wobble and vibrations while cutting resulting in a better cut and finnish on the surface. Most important, try to use the tail stock anytime work is more than about 5 + diameters beyond chuck jaws, material is being forced away from the cutting bit when machineing. There have been cases where the material has bent resulting in damage to tools, tool holders etc., sometimes damage to compound and cross slides too, and of course pride etc.
Sometimes hard to get tool post/holder and tail shock all in there, but generly can be done.
Have you tried a bit slower rpm with the carbide on that piece?
 
Top