The gear change model is very convenient. I will switch it for aluminum regular steel and stainless. On my old saw I never changed the belt too much hassle.
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Magnum 7" X 12" bandsaw from KMS Tools
- Thread starter John Conroy
- Start date
John's saw might be different than mine, but judging by the familiar bolt pattern might be +/- similar to these offshore types. They support the table by a block which accommodates one of the blade bearings sets. You can see the 2 tapped holes on upper surface. The thing I don't care for is its a relatively small surface area to support a big table. Not so much rigidity but alignment. I was already contemplating making a new block but then realized in swing down chop saw mode (with table off) it has to clear the edge of the vise & not bottom out prematurely. That's primarily why its the size that it is. My table is actually pretty rigid for stamped sheet metal, maybe 3mm thickness with 90-deg bent over edges on 2 sides. But it has no real control to ensure it is square to the blade plane as a function of bolt/hole clearance in the 2 screws. A thicker & more rigid table like John's & fence or even a reliable outside edge would be a big improvement. If there was a way to tweak it into alignment or better yet preserve alignment that would be bonus. Maybe if they had alignment dowels & the bolts were just to secure it.
I never thought of an independent table/seat like the link. I must admit I sit on mine when I'm on it for a while because its otherwise at an awkward height & orientation.
I never thought of an independent table/seat like the link. I must admit I sit on mine when I'm on it for a while because its otherwise at an awkward height & orientation.
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Here is another idea I had (yet to be acted on). I had some repetitive small fussy bits to cut on the table. Some were tool steel or thicker aluminum so you still have to take your time cutting. Meanwhile your fingers are getting cramped & the metal is getting hot. So you give it the water dunk, now its wet & slippery even with welder gloves. And you have to get back in the kerf where you left off.... you get the idea.
So I was going to get one of these hardwood clamps & just grasp the part. It is self squaring on the table. Mostly it provides a better place for your hands for more leverage & control .
So I was going to get one of these hardwood clamps & just grasp the part. It is self squaring on the table. Mostly it provides a better place for your hands for more leverage & control .
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Good idea Peter. $5.99? From where?
Various sizes & other clamps too.
https://www.blackrocktools.com/advancedsearch/result/?q=clamp
I ordered a power tool from them once at a good price & it was free shipping, but I think there is a minimum$.
https://www.blackrocktools.com/advancedsearch/result/?q=clamp
I ordered a power tool from them once at a good price & it was free shipping, but I think there is a minimum$.
Lee Valley carries but looks like their own Guccibag brand
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=69825&cat=1,43838,47843
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=69825&cat=1,43838,47843
You're right Peter. The bolt holes are 1/4" nc thread so it is actually pretty robust. I used tapered head screws so alignment is the same every time.
I started by squaring up the plate in the mill. It's a piece that i got from Al in Cochrane when he was getting ready to move. Then i set it upright in the saw and cut the slit for the blade and made the measurements for the blt holes off the slit. The pictures show i set it up and i slit it 1/2 way across.
The picture shows the finished part but this was the first operation after squaring the plate. Since the screws are always going to stay with the plate i countersunk the holes on the bottom and put o-rings over them to keep them from getting lost.
It stores in the bottom of the saw cabinet.
I have one of those fancy Incra mitre gages for my table saw but it is 5/16" thick so i couldnt mill the fence deep enough to use it on a 1/2" thick plate.
I started by squaring up the plate in the mill. It's a piece that i got from Al in Cochrane when he was getting ready to move. Then i set it upright in the saw and cut the slit for the blade and made the measurements for the blt holes off the slit. The pictures show i set it up and i slit it 1/2 way across.
The picture shows the finished part but this was the first operation after squaring the plate. Since the screws are always going to stay with the plate i countersunk the holes on the bottom and put o-rings over them to keep them from getting lost.
It stores in the bottom of the saw cabinet.
I have one of those fancy Incra mitre gages for my table saw but it is 5/16" thick so i couldnt mill the fence deep enough to use it on a 1/2" thick plate.
It seems very solid
