There are two Bridgeports for sale, w/ DRO's, at a steal of a price in Tranna.
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Several Regions have held meetups already, but others are being planned or are evaluating the interest. The Calgary Area Meetup is set for Saturday July 12th at 10am. The signup thread is here! Arbutus has also explored interest in a Fraser Valley meetup but it seems members either missed his thread or had other plans. Let him know if you are interested in a meetup later in the year by posting here! Slowpoke is trying to pull together an Ottawa area meetup later this summer. No date has been selected yet, so let him know if you are interested here! We are not aware of any other meetups being planned this year. If you are interested in doing something in your area, let everyone know and make it happen! Meetups are a great way to make new machining friends and get hands on help in your area. Don’t be shy, sign up and come, or plan your own meetup!
Looking for milling machine purchase help/advice
- Thread starter J.mac
- Start date
trlvn
Ultra Member
Welcome from Oakville!
I'll just throw out that PrecisionMatthews is located just this side of Pittsburgh. If you have or can borrow the appropriate vehicle, it is a manageable day trip to pick up a machine from them directly. I think they sell to enough Canadians that they should be able to give you solid advice on dealing with the current border mess.
Also, there are a few of us in the vicinity. If you wanted to come for a shop visit and get a little hands-on time on an RF-30 style round-column mill, that would be fine. There is a certain noisy guy in North Burlington that could probably do the same with his tricked-out square column machine. Etc.
Craig T.
When i bought my mill (MD45 from Modern Tool 3 years ago) i too decided that new was my best option- but for me that was mostly because of bad experiences with kijiji and difficulty finding something used that was not older or had lots of wear.
I know of a machine in Burlington (I saw it last week) that is nearly the same as mine (like a KC45), is 3 years old, comes with a power x, a DRO (which are essential options IMO), is in good condition, and is $4000.
I have left him a message to see if it still available. If it is - then I think you should give it strong consideration.
I will PM you after I hear back from him.
Here’s a couple pic ls of it:
I know of a machine in Burlington (I saw it last week) that is nearly the same as mine (like a KC45), is 3 years old, comes with a power x, a DRO (which are essential options IMO), is in good condition, and is $4000.
I have left him a message to see if it still available. If it is - then I think you should give it strong consideration.
I will PM you after I hear back from him.
Here’s a couple pic ls of it:
I have never worked on anything other than turret style knee mills (Bridgeport clones). In so doing I have made many thousand of turns on the knee crank. As much as on any other control I am sure. Conclusion: There are benefits to a knee style machine. Go as big as your budget and space will allow. It's possible to do small work on a big machine but near impossible to do larger work on a machine that's too small. I have a 9 X 35 Bridgeport clone. It has 16 inches between the spindle nose and the table with the knee all the way down. I have used all of it more often than you might think. Don't rule out used, but shop carefully.
Have Fun
Have Fun
1018Machine
Well-Known Member
I'm in the same camp! If a knee type mill is doable it's the best option. I also have a 9x35 BP clone and made a cast riser block to add 6 more inches!
J.mac
Member
Definitely would be interested, thanks!
Dan Dubeau
Ultra Member
Welcome. Most of us are expert yak shavers here. 
Can't help with mill selection as I have no experience with smaller ones. I DO have experience with fitting full sized machines in a single car garage, so I'd say go for a full size machine. There are quite a few others here that are pretty knowledgeable in the smaller sized equipment, so I'm sure you'll find answers.
There are a few times where I'd wish I have smaller "hobby sized" machines and more space, but that goes away when machining stuff.
Can't help with mill selection as I have no experience with smaller ones. I DO have experience with fitting full sized machines in a single car garage, so I'd say go for a full size machine
. There are quite a few others here that are pretty knowledgeable in the smaller sized equipment, so I'm sure you'll find answers. There are a few times where I'd wish I have smaller "hobby sized" machines and more space, but that goes away when machining stuff.
I'm of the camp for going as big as you can. I have a one car garage and was able to fit a 10x50 knee mill in it. I was thinking it would be more table than I ever would need, but it was cheap, so I bought it. I like having the space to keep the rotary table and the vise on it and not have to swap them out all the time. I'm in Richmond Hill if you are ever up this way and would like to stop by.
If I was looking for a milling machine I would consider this Moore Jig Borer. Quality machine, has lots of tooling and if you want to convert to CNC well you have to consider the screws and the accuracy. Bigger is better, heaver is better. Tooling costs a lot of money, but here you go. A couple of VFD's and you are in business with solid capable machine. A pick up truck and a trailer and a bit of fuel and you will have a quality machine that can do a lot.
Moore 3 Jig Borer w/tooling, power 220V, 3 phase, 7.7A full load, 110V control | eBay
Moore 3 Jig Borer w/tooling as shown, power 220V, 3 phase, 7.7A full load, 110V control. From a closing industrial facility. Untested but presumed to be working well. You are welcome to test it under power at our facility in Bensenville, IL. Ships freight.
www.ebay.com
TonyK.
Grimsby Ontario Canada.
Dan Dubeau
Ultra Member
Yeah, there's a tipping point. Really comes down to what you're making and plan on making with it. Truthfully, most of my projects done to date on my Excello could have been done on a bench top. A few would have pushed it, especially in the Z, as that seems to be the limiting factor as your go down in size. Doesn't take long to eat up a lot of Z with a vise, a drill chuck and drill....
That said, if everything you plan to make is small, then a full sized machine is taking up valuable real estate that could be home to MORE machines to add overall capabilities to your shop. It's always a balancing act.....
That said, if everything you plan to make is small, then a full sized machine is taking up valuable real estate that could be home to MORE machines to add overall capabilities to your shop. It's always a balancing act.....
Dan Dubeau
Ultra Member
I think like that everytime I have to turn sideways to navigate my shop.....
You could always build a shed
You could always build a shed
I have TOS FN20 and it weighs about 1800 LBS. A very capable machine and I don't regret it one bit. Tools are never really needed until there is one small job and I say, I wish I had... Then one day you get that tool and it opens a whole lot of opportunity and I say, why didn't I do this sooner. At times, I wish my machine was bit bigger, but I know, there is always a limit.
TonyK.
Grimsby Ontario Canada.
Downwindtracker2
Ultra Member
A mill is just a overarm router for metal .
The Taiwanese firm Rong Fu pioneered the common hobby mill, first a round column HD drill press with a table, RF-25, RF-30, then the dovetail column RF-45. Most the imports are some form of these. For most hobbyists, the dream machine is a 3/4 size Bridgeport type machine . It certainly was mine . I ended up with a RF-45 project. It's sorted out now, BTW. It's about the same size footprint.
It's very good idea to buy new. They all talk of buying used Bridgeports. From experience of a well worn machine,they are simply full of it. Better your import.
I use my mill and lathe to make parts to support my rebuild hobby. The mill has gotten more use than the lathe.
What rarely mentioned is how bloody expensive mill tooling is. Even cheap Chinese. For the lathe, I can walk into KMS and spend $5 and come home turn metal . Mill tooling are a factor in the 100s of that.
Power down feed allows you to bore smoothly on a mill. Without that you have only 2/3s the machine. That's the baby Bridgeport thing, but some RF-45 clones can do that as well.
The Taiwanese firm Rong Fu pioneered the common hobby mill, first a round column HD drill press with a table, RF-25, RF-30, then the dovetail column RF-45. Most the imports are some form of these. For most hobbyists, the dream machine is a 3/4 size Bridgeport type machine . It certainly was mine . I ended up with a RF-45 project. It's sorted out now, BTW. It's about the same size footprint.
It's very good idea to buy new. They all talk of buying used Bridgeports. From experience of a well worn machine,they are simply full of it. Better your import.
I use my mill and lathe to make parts to support my rebuild hobby. The mill has gotten more use than the lathe.
What rarely mentioned is how bloody expensive mill tooling is. Even cheap Chinese. For the lathe, I can walk into KMS and spend $5 and come home turn metal . Mill tooling are a factor in the 100s of that.
Power down feed allows you to bore smoothly on a mill. Without that you have only 2/3s the machine. That's the baby Bridgeport thing, but some RF-45 clones can do that as well.
Hello @J.mac nice to have you aboard.
One Correction: @PeterT owns a PM945 clone, not an RF 45 type. (I have one too!)
All the above comments are great! I should add that I have a double car garage with 3 full sized BP clones and 3 full sized lathes and a horizontal mill as well. So I'm used to cramming in stuff. I also did software for 48 years before ditching it for the soft life.
Yaks around the world fear me and my razor.
+1 on new machines can have problems too (ask @PeterT ), R8 spindle, table height is vital, 5/8 slots, 34" table minimum, DRO.
I've been machining over 40 years, and have owned 5 mills. I believe it is harder to learn on and slower to work with a bench top machine than a knee mill. Weight should not be a problem. You have 4 guys within 20 minutes drive that can help you move a heavier machine, and you will likely never move it twice. My lightest mill is 2200 lbs.
Why a 34" table? if you graduate to doing spines and more complex machining (and I suspect like all of us software types, you are drawn to complexity
) You need room to mount a vice, an rotary table or dividing head and a footstock. Unless you are committed to a tiny envelope, I recommend a 5-6" vise, which is about 8" wide, the dividing head/rotary table takes about 7", and the tailstock takes 5", so real estate gets used up fast. I owned a 32" table knee mill with a movement of 8"X, 21" Y and Z clearance of 16" max. It was not enough for me or the guy who bought it from me.
There is a BP model that has a 34" table that has 21" of Y travel that would fit your space. (1600 lbs)
My perception is that you want as hassle-free experience for both purchase and for usage. On the usage side, the heaviest, most rigid mill will always serve you best.
On the purchase side, I will declare my bias for used machines. I still have my 12X37 lathe (my littlest one) that I bought new in 1981. Since then I have bought all used machines and am overall happy with each purchase. You are right on about being cautious about used machines. Defects can be hidden by a cagey seller. There is a lot to know about checking out a used machine.
But there are great videos on the 'tube about examining machines, and you have an abundance of good people that will probably help you out or scout a great machine for you. I wish I were 2200km closer, and I'd be glad to help you! I grew up in Burlington near Burloak Dr and New St!
Happy hunting
One Correction: @PeterT owns a PM945 clone, not an RF 45 type. (I have one too!)
All the above comments are great! I should add that I have a double car garage with 3 full sized BP clones and 3 full sized lathes and a horizontal mill as well. So I'm used to cramming in stuff. I also did software for 48 years before ditching it for the soft life.
Yaks around the world fear me and my razor.
+1 on new machines can have problems too (ask @PeterT ), R8 spindle, table height is vital, 5/8 slots, 34" table minimum, DRO.
I've been machining over 40 years, and have owned 5 mills. I believe it is harder to learn on and slower to work with a bench top machine than a knee mill. Weight should not be a problem. You have 4 guys within 20 minutes drive that can help you move a heavier machine, and you will likely never move it twice. My lightest mill is 2200 lbs.
Why a 34" table? if you graduate to doing spines and more complex machining (and I suspect like all of us software types, you are drawn to complexity
) You need room to mount a vice, an rotary table or dividing head and a footstock. Unless you are committed to a tiny envelope, I recommend a 5-6" vise, which is about 8" wide, the dividing head/rotary table takes about 7", and the tailstock takes 5", so real estate gets used up fast. I owned a 32" table knee mill with a movement of 8"X, 21" Y and Z clearance of 16" max. It was not enough for me or the guy who bought it from me. There is a BP model that has a 34" table that has 21" of Y travel that would fit your space. (1600 lbs)
My perception is that you want as hassle-free experience for both purchase and for usage. On the usage side, the heaviest, most rigid mill will always serve you best.
On the purchase side, I will declare my bias for used machines. I still have my 12X37 lathe (my littlest one) that I bought new in 1981. Since then I have bought all used machines and am overall happy with each purchase. You are right on about being cautious about used machines. Defects can be hidden by a cagey seller. There is a lot to know about checking out a used machine.
But there are great videos on the 'tube about examining machines, and you have an abundance of good people that will probably help you out or scout a great machine for you. I wish I were 2200km closer, and I'd be glad to help you! I grew up in Burlington near Burloak Dr and New St!
Happy hunting
I agree with most of your comments, but we will have to agree to disagree on these:
I have had 2 full size used Bridgeport machines. They were both great purchases at a great price. Repairing a BP is usually a relatively easy exercise. Parts and know-how are readily available. Once operational, they are simply awesome machines. There are also many many other members on here who went that way. I really don't think that those of us who did go that way are "full of it".
In my opinion, you can get an incredible BP machine for the money and whatever work is required. The primary issue is, room for the beast. Not all of us have the luxury of the required space. For those that don't, I'd think the next best size is a smaller knee mill, then a bench knee mill, and then any of the many other excellent choices.
Yes, there is risk associated with buying a used machine. But there is also a lot to be saved that can be used to buy tooling. It boils down to buying wisely and not dragging home a useless piece of crap.
My lathe sees 4x the work that my mill sees. If you go by the member stats alone, a lathe is a better first machine. Not by a huge amount though cuz the relative need really does depend on the individual and their needs and we are all different.
I have had 2 full size used Bridgeport machines. They were both great purchases at a great price. Repairing a BP is usually a relatively easy exercise. Parts and know-how are readily available. Once operational, they are simply awesome machines. There are also many many other members on here who went that way. I really don't think that those of us who did go that way are "full of it".
In my opinion, you can get an incredible BP machine for the money and whatever work is required. The primary issue is, room for the beast. Not all of us have the luxury of the required space. For those that don't, I'd think the next best size is a smaller knee mill, then a bench knee mill, and then any of the many other excellent choices.
Yes, there is risk associated with buying a used machine. But there is also a lot to be saved that can be used to buy tooling. It boils down to buying wisely and not dragging home a useless piece of crap.
My lathe sees 4x the work that my mill sees. If you go by the member stats alone, a lathe is a better first machine. Not by a huge amount though cuz the relative need really does depend on the individual and their needs and we are all different.
Dan Dubeau
Ultra Member
While similar, no two of us are the same. My mills see way more work than the lathe.