Looking for input on shop press ratings

[Jwest7788]

Hey Guys,

Hope all is well.

I've been in the market for a shop press for a little while now. I mostly come across simple jobs like needs to fit a bearing, straighten something I bent, or get the damn MT3 chuck out of my mini mill. (That thing has never been removed, last guy torqued it down to 100ft/lbs or something, lol.)

The other consideration is floor space, which is beginning to run low.

The question: Do you think a 6 ton press would be sufficient for the above noted needs?
--> The bench top sized ones tend to be 6 ton.


Another thought I had was making my own with a bottle jack, but I am stuck on the ton rating decision, so can't plan anything out yet!

Love your input!

JW

 

[Tom O]

I'd like to have the 20 + range but would be more interested in how it is controled. A bottle jack type will press out a bearing but for more delicate things like broaching I was told to apply presure, release and repeat giving the broach a chance to release stresses instead of snapping, basically a pain with the bottle jack.

 

[Dabbler]

My 10 ton has done everything I've asked of it... 6 might work as well!

 

[Jwest7788]

I'd like to have the 20 + range but would be more interested in how it is controled. A bottle jack type will press out a bearing but for more delicate things like broaching I was told to apply presure, release and repeat giving the broach a chance to release stresses instead of snapping, basically a pain with the bottle jack.

I've been staring at this one for a few days now, just not sure if I want to jump in. (Would be a pain if 6T wasn't enough)

https://www.princessauto.com/en/det...atic-hydraulic-a-frame-shop-press/A-p8604563e

Video: (Volume Warning, starts quiet, gets loud)

My engine hoist has taught me the value of air over hydraulic. Especially after helping load up all of those metal logs, lol.

JW

 

[Tom O]

Doesn't look bad for the price you can't really go wrong. I have a 3 ton arbour press I picked up on kijiji for $50.00 that I'm using now but one day I'll go hydraulic.

 

[Janger]

@CalgaryPT I think peter has a 20ton air hydraulic and he can bend and even sever fairly thick stock. I can't remember the thickness Peter? He got one of those swag off road brand vblock and v shaped top plate. If you want to maybe do that might be a reason to go bigger.

 

[Dabbler]

correction: kine is a 20 ton fro Princess auto... my 2+ cents worth: air/hydralic are -really- noisy. Mine is a standard 20t bottle jack type, which is very quiet!

 

[CalgaryPT]

Yup...as John said I've got an air over hydraulic 20 Ton. The Jack itself is a Crappy Tire model that was in the discount rack becuase it leaked. I just replaced the seal and it has worked ever since. I have a low end SWAG press brake kit that bends 1/4 like butter. Actually, you have to be careful on 1/4 as it will crack the stock if you keep pressing down after 90 degrees.

SWAG kits are at: http://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-Press-Brake-Kits_c_53.html

I built my press myself. Originally it was bench mount but later I made it floor mount. Downside is it is custom for the press brake--not an adjustable table.

 

[Jwest7788]

Well, I bought it. It's only 6 ton, so I wouldnt expect bending 1/4" steel anytime soon.

I am going to work on a press brake, for thinner stuff, and for something to do.

Any guesses the thickest material I'll be able to bend? (Planning out the "V" part of the brake, I figure its size is dependant on the thickness of material expected to be able to be bent.)

JW

 

[CalgaryPT]

Well, I bought it. It's only 6 ton, so I wouldnt expect bending 1/4" steel anytime soon.

I am going to work on a press brake, for thinner stuff, and for something to do.

Any guesses the thickest material I'll be able to bend? (Planning out the "V" part of the brake, I figure its size is dependant on the thickness of material expected to be able to be bent.)

JW

SWAG's spec for their 12 ton shows:

• 13.85" = Full bending width of the bottom die on anything 1/8" or thinner.
• 8" in 3/16"
• 6" in 1/4"
• 2.5" in 3/8"

so I am sure you can bend small lengths of 3/16 easily.

P.S. Don't use cast bed plate if you can help it. I have heard of them shattering.

 

[Jwest7788]

SWAG's spec for their 12 ton shows:

• 13.85" = Full bending width of the bottom die on anything 1/8" or thinner.
• 8" in 3/16"
• 6" in 1/4"
• 2.5" in 3/8"

so I am sure you can bend small lengths of 3/16 easily.

P.S. Don't use cast bed plate if you can help it. I have heard of them shattering.

Thats super helpful, thanks!

And also, what a terrifying thought.

I was thinking of buying a solid square stock and milling at a 45 to make a V. This would allow for a few different V "sizes" in one length of stock. I am now thinking that it's probably overkill for this little guy.

 

[CalgaryPT]

Thats super helpful, thanks!

And also, what a terrifying thought.

I was thinking of buying a solid square stock and milling at a 45 to make a V. This would allow for a few different V "sizes" in one length of stock. I am now thinking that it's probably overkill for this little guy.

Probably fun for machining guys, but too much work for me.

My 20 ton SWAG unit just uses standard angle iron welded in a C channel for the base. I have seen guys do the same for the press bar too though. Pic attached...

 

[Jwest7788]

Definitely a simpler solution.
What do you do if you needed to bend the last, say, 1/2" of a peice? Doesn't the depth of the V prevent it?

(This is the thing I am trying to overcome, knowing that I will be working with thin stock and small pieces generally. )


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[CalgaryPT]

I bend a longer piece and cut it off afterwards. I watched a sheet metal pro work once. Later I learned that there is a lot of planing that goes into bending. Later when I bought my Balleigh Mag Brake I appreciated it more. The order of operations is critical. For example, you want to drill holes first if possible, because sometimes you can't put them in a vise afterwards to drill or countersink. Sanding, buffing, and rounding stock first is sometimes easier pre-bend too. Also, as the metal gets thicker the radius of the bend must be accounted for as it can throw off your measurements including hole centers. There are lots of calculators online such as: http://www.custompartnet.com/calculator/bend-allowance , but you probably know this already.

I kinda enjoy having to think out the bends ahead of time and allow for how the excess stock will bend up and interfere with your next bend, etc. It's like a 3D puzzle.

Also, I don't have one on mine but a pressure gauge can help determine when you have bottomed out. I've crushed many brackets because I let the jack go too far.

And a last note..important safety feature: If you buy an air over hydraulic jack....remove the valve catch that allows for the operator to engage the deadman valve and keep it engaged. These things are death traps on presses. I saw a CCTV video once of a guy that was using one and stuck his hand in the press to adjust the part. It got caught and he couldn't reach the valve. That was the last of his arm.

 

[Tom O]

PT How do you find your mag brake are they as good as they claim?

 

[CalgaryPT]

I love mine. I think their niche is creative stuff and fabrication. I do a lot of artistic stuff and the infinite throat depth was what I wanted. I got mine through Ecco Machinery in Vancouver. The western Canada rep there (Ric) used to be great. There is a new guy now, I don't think he is as good as Ric was.

I think Empire Machinery in Winnipeg is OK as well. They can get them.

I know Modern Tool in Calgary can, but I am not so happy with them recently. Still waiting 2 months for a Kalamazoo 20 inch disc sander.

Call around is your best bet.

 

[Jwest7788]

And a last note..important safety feature: If you buy an air over hydraulic jack....remove the valve catch that allows for the operator to engage the deadman valve and keep it engaged. These things are death traps on presses. I saw a CCTV video once of a guy that was using one and stuck his hand in the press to adjust the part. It got caught and he couldn't reach the valve. That was the last of his arm.

I couldn't agree more.

Mine does happen to be air over, literally the first thing I did was over crush a part due to that catch. Then promptly pried it off with pliers. Lol

They should mandate putting a push button air valve on the top of the press, forcing you to use both hands to operate the machine.


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