lucsimoneau
Active Member
If you need more pictures let me know, here's what I've got
Lathe Wiring
- Thread starter Blue Wall
- Start date
lucsimoneau
Active Member
Cable on the left is going to control panel. Middle cable is 220V coming from the power outlet. Right cable is going to motor.
Blue Wall
Active Member
wow....thanks
lucsimoneau
Active Member
Give me some feedback to see if this worked out for you.
Dabbler
ersatz engineer
On dual voltage machines, this is customary. The mains cable can then be just 220 or 110V and the transformer makes the control voltages. it doe not produce enough VAs to power anything beyone the relays. I wired mine in the circuit, even though I had 110V available in the cable. Then I only moven one wire in teh control circuit, and rewired the motor for 220V, and that was it. 10 minutes. To bypass the transformer I'd have to remove both leads, add add teh 110V leg. prolly 10 minutes, but then I wouldn't conform to the 220V scematic, and that would offedn my undiagnosed OCD.
It seems to me that OCD is about the only plausible explanation 
It is almost impossible to have 208 / 220 /240 without 120 like voltage available. All the NEMA and IEC and IEAD standards work that way. All the public electric grids in North America, Europe, Japan, 'colonial' south east Asia and Pacific islands and Australia work this way. Aviation and marine systems have different standards and there are lots of custom industrial ones too. And who knows what they do in Africa or any of the old Soviet places
It is almost impossible to have 208 / 220 /240 without 120 like voltage available. All the NEMA and IEC and IEAD standards work that way. All the public electric grids in North America, Europe, Japan, 'colonial' south east Asia and Pacific islands and Australia work this way. Aviation and marine systems have different standards and there are lots of custom industrial ones too. And who knows what they do in Africa or any of the old Soviet places
Dabbler
ersatz engineer
You missed Great Britian and New Zealand, where *only* 240V is available.
Blue Wall
Active Member
Well!!! First of all the motor is as you all had guessed is 220. I followed luc simoneau's advice and wired the way his was. No white smoke....but there is something not right in the control panel. The red power light comes on when you turn the switch on. THere is no voltage at the red switch when it is turned on. There is 110 at the light though. The green button does not engage. The green switch which is for the coolant does have 220. Its a mystery. Can you manually engage the relays?
Attachments
Blue Wall
Active Member
Thanks Luc
Except that if you use that path won't your circuit breakers trip? Any GFCI would, at least.
lucsimoneau
Active Member
A few tidbits of information - first of all, the green push button is just a spindle "JOG" button, it will not latch. To assure right starting conditions, the E-Stop button must be pulled (deactivated) and the chuck guard must be in the closed position so that the limit switch is tripped.
That is my plan for my lathe too. I already have the motor and the VFD. I got a TECO for many reasons. They are more money but they are also full featured.
Unlike a mill which is much more plug and play, you will need to almost completely rewire a lathe. The VFD basically replaces all the contactors so all your lathe hardware has to be rewired to connect to the VFD instead.
I want to maintain backward compatibility so I plan to install a second busbar to do the interface and leave the first busbar wired the way it is. That way it's easy to reverse everything.
Unlike a mill which is much more plug and play, you will need to almost completely rewire a lathe. The VFD basically replaces all the contactors so all your lathe hardware has to be rewired to connect to the VFD instead.
I want to maintain backward compatibility so I plan to install a second busbar to do the interface and leave the first busbar wired the way it is. That way it's easy to reverse everything.
Tom Kitta
Ultra Member
I have actually few few machines that run 240 -> 120v transformer - I even use two such transformers to power a lamp. I do not like extra 120v cable.
My VFD experience is all with the cheap ones. Don't put a 3HP motor on a cheap 3HP VFD. That one failed in a few months; vevor refunded me about half the purchase price to stop bothering them, and in theory I can replace the power transistors for about that amount, though I don't expect I'll ever get around to it.
The 5HP VFD that cost 40-50$ more is holding up just fine with the 3HP motor on the power hammer.
The 5HP VFD that cost 40-50$ more is holding up just fine with the 3HP motor on the power hammer.