Lathe VFD?

Danzo187

Member
Premium Member
I've been busy deciding on a VFD for two mills that I recently purchased. In the process, I realized that such a device might be a good thing to add to my lathe too. My lathe is a 12x40 enclosed gear head with a single phase 220V motor. The lowest speed on the lathe is 70 rpm. But there are lots of times when I would like to be able to run it at 50rpm. A VFD would facilitate that and add other speeds too!

Is this a good idea or a bad one? Anything I need to know or watch out for?
Susquath
I have a brand new WEG CFW300 vfd ill let go for 150 US,I paid 260 for it,I bought it for my Harig 612 surface grinder before it was delivered ,grinder showed up and it was duel voltage ,so I changed it over to 110v
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Speed control and on/off switch are easy to put outboard on a small panel. This is accessed from the 24 volt terminal strip. A 5kohm pot and an on/off switch will give you everything for your mill. When I did this on my Craftex mill I found the only issue was to know spindle speed accurately, as I was using high speed steel then. So I put a little reader on the spindle pulley to give me rpms, as the VFD can show motor speed only.
Then I switched to carbide and rpm and ipm became a non-issue.

None of this is a problem @Ironman, I do all of that and more on my mill VFD now. It will be a zero issue on the lathe too.

My problem is changing the setup. Let's say I decide I want to increase the rate of acceleration of the motor, or I want to change the braking parameters, or I want to change the carrier frequency. With a non-removeable control panel, I would have to go to the VFD wherever it is to do that. I'd like to mount it behind the lathe but there is no convenient access there for a big guy.

As a next best solution, I'll prolly do what @Darren and @John Conroy did and put it on top of the headstock.
 
Last edited:

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Susquath
I have a brand new WEG CFW300 vfd ill let go for 150 US,I paid 260 for it,I bought it for my Harig 612 surface grinder before it was delivered ,grinder showed up and it was duel voltage ,so I changed it over to 110v

Nice offer! Is it a 3HP model?

I think you are replying to a much older post. I already have the VFD. I just need the remote access accessory.

If I'm not mistaken, yours is the same. You have to buy an accessory panel to program it remotely.

Also, aren't you located in the NE USA? If so, that would add customs and shipping issues that I'd rather not have to deal with!

Thanks anyway! It is appreciated.
 

Danzo187

Member
Premium Member
Nice offer! Is it a 3HP model?

I think you are replying to a much older post. I already have the VFD. I just need the remote access accessory.

If I'm not mistaken, yours is the same. You have to buy an accessory panel to program it remotely.

Also, aren't you located in the NE USA? If so, that would add customs and shipping issues that I'd rather not have to deal with!

Thanks anyway! It is appreciated.
I do that, Should start looking at post date lol
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
I've been around the horn with E-Motors about the VFD as well as the electrical code. Looks like I need an overload contactor (CSA standard 1 28-300) even though that function is built into the VFD. If so, I'm gunna have to make a new control box anyway so I might as well relocate the whole kit and kabbudal to the top of the head. I'll just do it in a way that the VFD control panel shows through a hole in the box. Maybe I can find a low profile box so my lathe doesn't get too tall. I can also add my new switches there too. It will end up bigger than I planned but it will meet code and make it all easily reversable for sellability when that time comes.

My plan is to make a new box with all the required functionality, label any moved (or extended) wires, and put a copy of a document detailing the changes inside both the original and the new control boxes. The old single phase control box will just sit there un-used and unmolested. I'll put terminal blocks, the VFD, and the required overload contactor in the new Low Profile Control Box.

Anyone have a low cost supplier for boxes, contactor racks, terminal blocks, etc? The local supply places will rape me blind - in my good eye.
 

Rauce

Ultra Member
I've been around the horn with E-Motors about the VFD as well as the electrical code. Looks like I need an overload contactor (CSA standard 1 28-300) even though that function is built into the VFD. If so, I'm gunna have to make a new control box anyway so I might as well relocate the whole kit and kabbudal to the top of the head. I'll just do it in a way that the VFD control panel shows through a hole in the box. Maybe I can find a low profile box so my lathe doesn't get too tall. I can also add my new switches there too. It will end up bigger than I planned but it will meet code and make it all easily reversable for sellability when that time comes.

My plan is to make a new box with all the required functionality, label any moved (or extended) wires, and put a copy of a document detailing the changes inside both the original and the new control boxes. The old single phase control box will just sit there un-used and unmolested. I'll put terminal blocks, the VFD, and the required overload contactor in the new Low Profile Control Box.

Anyone have a low cost supplier for boxes, contactor racks, terminal blocks, etc? The local supply places will rape me blind - in my good eye.
When I was still planning to use the servo on my lathe I bought a bunch of stuff of stuff like that from mouser/digikey that fit on din rails. I’m keeping it all since I want to use that motor on a future project but the blocks were cheap. The ones I bought were phoenix contact.

I’m surprised about the overload contactor… does the VFD specific a circuit breaker size? I would assume if the lathe is on a dedicated circuit the breaker in your panel (sized correctly) would be enough protection.
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
I might have some suitable terminal blocks, how many do you need?
wire gauge?

I will keep that in mind. I haven't gotten to setting things like wire size yet. Just guessing 14 or 12. I'm old and slow and slowing down even more as each day passes. Knowing me quite well by now, they will be oversized and the smaller wires will get big connections on them to fit a common block . When I get closer to that phase of the project I'll be in touch. In the meantime, THANK YOU!
 

Rauce

Ultra Member
I probably did it all wrong but I just stuck a plug on the end of the cord and plugged the VFD into the appropriate socket.
Not sure if a VFD changes things but up to a certain hp a plug alone is acceptable by code for motors up to a certain hp. I think the cut off is 1.5hp. Over that a plug is still acceptable but you need a disconnect dedicated for that piece of equipment.
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
I’m surprised about the overload contactor… does the VFD specific a circuit breaker size? I would assume if the lathe is on a dedicated circuit the breaker in your panel (sized correctly) would be enough protection.

Me too. In fact, I also asked if a breaker would be good enough. I was told it wasn't. So I checked the code myself. It seems he is right.

It makes no sense to me to have three levels of current protection like that. Totally violates the KISS safety principle.

I might reach out to the CSA.
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
I probably did it all wrong but I just stuck a plug on the end of the cord and plugged the VFD into the appropriate socket.

That's what I usually do when I'm first setting things up. But I like to be compliant for my permanent setups. I think @Rauce is right about a motor size cutoff. Mine is 2.5HP. I have always planned to have a disconnect in the final setup so that's ok with me anyway.
 

Dabbler

ersatz engineer
Not sure if a VFD changes things but up to a certain hp a plug alone is acceptable by code for motors up to a certain hp. I think the cut off is 1.5hp. Over that a plug is still acceptable but you need a disconnect dedicated for that piece of equipment.
From what I have read and confirmed with our local inspectors, the motor size exemption has been deprecated. Unplugging is not considered safe enough in the event of a malfunction. A switch, breaker or overload is needed to meet code these days. At least that is what we have to do here in Calgary. (or the Calgary interpretation of the CEC).... My copy of CEC was 9 years old, which is why I asked.
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
I got this today from a different support guy at eMotors.

"You don’t need to install a contactor; you just need to set the overload in the VFD according to the code standard.

As for adjusting parameters I believe the VFD supports a number of communication protocols that will allow you to remotely change those variable from a computer if that helps at all."

I'm not sure the communications really helps. The last thing I want is a laptop on my lathe!

But the system just got a lot simpler.
 

whydontu

I Tried, It Broke
Premium Member
You have a Teco unit? Looks like they support RS485, easy to get a converter to run RS485 to USB. Tricky bit is finding software that runs on a PC that will talk to the VFD. Although it looks like Teco publish something called “TP3-PCLINK-setup(V2-1).zip” that implies PC connectivity. $20 gets you an old Win7 netbook. And when it gets trashed, go find another one. Or the Holy Grail - a 10” touchscreen rugged PC. Watch for police auctions, they often scrap the in-car computers and while they tend to be old and slow, they are very well constructed for life in a machine shop.
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Watch for police auctions, they often scrap the in-car computers and while they tend to be old and slow, they are very well constructed for life in a machine shop.

A PC in my shop..... Ughkt.....

I would never have guessed that converting my lathe to 3 phase would mean another computer..... I'm not happy with this.....

You have a Teco unit?

Yes, an L510

Looks like they support RS485, easy to get a converter to run RS485 to USB.

I will look.

Tricky bit is finding software that runs on a PC that will talk to the VFD. Although it looks like Teco publish something called “TP3-PCLINK-setup(V2-1).zip” that implies PC connectivity.

That's exactly what I was concerned about! (Insert big helpless sigh here.)

Where did you find that? I did a search on it and couldn't find anything.
 

Darren

Ultra Member
Premium Member
On my 2hp bandsaw, and my 1hp surface grinder, I have line power coming in to a 3hp rated switch (looks just like a light switch), then from the switch to the VFD. No contactors. Pretty simple. They have stop/start momentary switches, e stop switches, pots for speed (only bandsaw can vary speed).

Both my lathes have magnetic brakes, so they were a bit more complicated. I use 24v power supplies and SSR's to control the brakes, which the VFD's control, and both have contactors for main power disconnects. The 10hp lathe also has a motor protection overload switch and a big line filter. If you need any details i can probably help.
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
On my 2hp bandsaw, and my 1hp surface grinder, I have line power coming in to a 3hp rated switch (looks just like a light switch), then from the switch to the VFD. No contactors. Pretty simple. They have stop/start momentary switches, e stop switches, pots for speed (only bandsaw can vary speed).

Thanks Darren, it's not really about what works. That's the easy part. For me it's also about meeting a stupid code written well before VFD's existed. If it were up to me, I'd let the VFD handle all the safety stuff, put a main disconnect on the wall and perhaps fuses in the disconnect too. I'd also have 220V single phase line filters before the VFD. Everything else would be done by the VFD.

EMotors originally told me I needed an overload contactor, but then corrected that advice saying that it wasn't required.

What I don't want is a future problem and then have my insurance duck their obligations because I don't meet code. I hate reading code. But it looks like I'm gunna have to.

Both my lathes have magnetic brakes, so they were a bit more complicated. I use 24v power supplies and SSR's to control the brakes, which the VFD's control, and both have contactors for main power disconnects.

I don't have a brake on my lathe but I do plan to install a braking resistor for the VFD.
 
Top