Kijiji drill press

[Brent H]

I have a pretty good one. They have different inserts so be sure you have one that will debur steel and is not just intended for copper tube or aluminium. It also takes a bit of practice to get the swivel cutting action going properly.

 

[PeterT]

For holes where I want a a light touch feel I use one of these. You can get different sized counter head diameters up to about 1/2" I think. Some people prefer the straight push in style which rotates the cutter like a (what did they call those yankee screwdrivers or something?). The other has an offset cutter. Noga is a great brand. The handle like shown in post#19 can be used with deburring blades like for larger holes or straight edges for that matter. If its not fussy or you want a deeper chamfer, just chuck up a countersink in the cordless drill & its all over in 2 seconds.

One way to minimize ugly back side break out is not let the drill exit into air. I use a scrap of MDF. You could theoretically get a burr-less hole if the scrap was the same density because the drill would just keep proceeding, but that's kind of a waste of good metal. So that's why I used MDF, its reasonably dense & cheap.

 

[Chicken lights]

For holes where I want a a light touch feel I use one of these. You can get different sized counter head diameters up to about 1/2" I think. Some people prefer the straight push in style which rotates the cutter like a (what did they call those yankee screwdrivers or something?). The other has an offset cutter. Noga is a great brand. The handle like shown in post#19 can be used with deburring blades like for larger holes or straight edges for that matter. If its not fussy or you want a deeper chamfer, just chuck up a countersink in the cordless drill & its all over in 2 seconds.

One way to minimize ugly back side break out is not let the drill exit into air. I use a scrap of MDF. You could theoretically get a burr-less hole if the scrap was the same density because the drill would just keep proceeding, but that's kind of a waste of good metal. So that's why I used MDF, its reasonably dense & cheap.

Part of why I ask is the ugly drill break out would cause the piece to sit cockeyed on the table to drill the next hole.

Very fuzzily I remember that the first part of machining is to have a clean table/vise, any chips or swarf would cause problems with accuracy

Good info, thanks!

 

[historicalarms]

View attachment 5742
Ok so here’s a dumb question

So usually no matter what I’m working with, once you drill through material there’s a burr or chips left proud of the hole. Now I’m not that fussy on some things but there has to be a way to clean up the hole besides a Roloc disc or sandpaper disc in a die grinder

I’ve heard to use the next size bigger drill bit to chamfer the hole that was drilled

I mean it’s not the end of the world but like in the picture if I could avoid the sanding/grinding marks I’d prefer that

If it's a piece that "finish isn't a concern then I give ever hole I drill a quick pass over the belt sander...If finish is a concern then I do use the "turn over & touch with a bigger bit" thing you mention. I I have to be very picky on appearance I might use an end mill in the same manner.

 

[Chicken lights]

There’s gotta be a better way to do that. I wanted to have the pipe go through the plate, to weld both sides, for strength.

Which, it fits great, and is perfect!

But the belt on the drill press wants to slip, the hole saw chatters, even with gobs of cutting fluid it was a long slow process to get that far.

 

[YYCHM]

Yikes! How thick is that plate you are trying to drill out? How did the original (smaller ID) hole get there?

 

[Chicken lights]

Yikes! How thick is that plate you are trying to drill out? How did the original (smaller ID) hole get there?

3/16”? Possibly 1/4”

I started with a piece of 8” square flat plate, used my centre punch then my spotting drill bit, then an 1/8” drill bit. Then whatever size the centre drill is in the hole saw

 

[YYCHM]

So in the image you have managed to chew your way through using the hole saw?

Ya, I bet that was tedious.

 

[Chicken lights]

So in the image you have managed to chew your way through using the hole saw?

Ya, I bet that was tedious.

Yep. It worked well....eventually

I need to get off my keister and finish my hole cutting jig for torches....but that wouldn’t be as clean a cut

 

[Chicken lights]

Ok....so I’m a rookie I’ll admit that.
A friend stopped by the shop tonight. We got talking and I showed him the belt, which didn’t look horrible.

He grabbed the silver handle, moving the motor and pulleys further out, tightened the black knob and said try it now....

I feel silly but I guess you have to learn somehow...

 

[Johnwa]

I’m sure we’ve all had those moments.

 

[Tom O]

Wow! You have to try “ what does this do “ it’s a guy thing!

 

[Chicken lights]

I really haven’t had much time this year to play with stuff. I’m home one or two days a week and

So, yeah, lots of “d’oh” moments unfortunately

 

[YYCHM]

So, yeah, lots of “d’oh” moments unfortunately

Don't sweat it, we ALL have those moments. Example: No matter how much I tensioned the belt the bit still stalled on occasion, yet the motor, pulleys and belt were spinning. Hmmmmmm…… what to do, what to do. Ended up the set screw binding the spindle pully to the spindle had vibrated loose and backed off to the point where it would intermittently lock up. Got that sucker locked down with Loctite now.

 

[Bofobo]

I’ve done this on my mini mill but it’s very slow going, also belt driven or it would have sheared head gears

 

[Chicken lights]

Started with a junction box. I wanted to clean out the terminals, so it was flat. I was somewhat skeptical on this being a good idea. I took it slow and watched my fingers. Roughed it with a carbide burr then went back with a stone to clean it up

 

[Chicken lights]

The stone was definitely smoother/safer, but it was also a lot slower.
I was mounting a circuit breaker in my battery box, I wanted some way to protect it. Worked good!