Right. So maybe industry specific as to the demands, and that's a fair point consumers may only care about dollars. Industry might wince at the dollars but it keeps the factory running and outweighs the input cost
Good point
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JCDammeyer's 42 projects
- Thread starter jcdammeyer
- Start date
Good point
Think of this product... it is a container. It is large enough to hold people. It has wheels on the 4 corners and can be controlled to move from point A to point B.
Many are virtually the exact same size and have the same capabilities but the cost between two different suppliers varies widely. And yet both stay in business mostly because of the sheer demand and volume.
Now move into the little house where that container is supposed to sit. (Blasphemy actually. Those places should only be for shops and tools). Anyway, given that there are foundries and machine shops in North America why is this type of product not made in North America?
Grizzly G0757 - 9" x 39" 2 HP Horizontal/Vertical Mill with Power Feed - Grizzly Industrial, Inc.
<h1>G0757 9" x 39" 2 HP Horizontal/Vertical Mill with Power Feed</h1> <h2>This versatile machine allows you to perform both vertical or horizontal milling operations, with dedicated motors for each spindle.</h2> <p>Convert to the horizontal setup by rotating the head 180° on the column and...
www.grizzly.com
I believe it comes back to volume. China has 1.4 billion people under one single government and next door India has 1.47 billion also under one government. North America has 610 million or so but spread out over 3 countries and different style governments.
Japan would have small little manufacturers on the ground floor and the family would live on the upper floor. They'd bring bags of little parts that they stamped out over to Toyota or some other car manufacturer.
Here we don't look at building things that way and as the population who could do that ages out it's easier to buy from China.
Different subject. Back when we vacationed in Mexico over Christmas a few of the places served Tacos in these metal frames sitting on boards.
The metal frames and metal cups are available from Amazon and Cdn Tire and places like that. But not the boards. So here's the evolution to create a birthday gift for my wife since she's the fish taco fan.
Started with a 3D printed model as two pieces glued together. Then bought some spruce 1x4s cut into shorter pieces (too short by 3/4" but that's another story) and then used the jointer for the first time in years on the edges to be able to glue two pieces making one almost 7" wide.
Then through the surface planer and table saw to square off one end, to width and the jointer again clean up the sawn side.
Next into the JGRO CNC router. Too much dust so one of the 42 projects was finished to make the dust shoe easily removable and installable.
And this where it sits now.
I'm finding the spruce is really too soft. Should have splurged for maple but this cost $18 and the closest maple in the size I needed was closer to $100.
Because I cut the original pieces a tad too short I'm playing around with where I put the two cup holes.
The metal frames and metal cups are available from Amazon and Cdn Tire and places like that. But not the boards. So here's the evolution to create a birthday gift for my wife since she's the fish taco fan.
Started with a 3D printed model as two pieces glued together. Then bought some spruce 1x4s cut into shorter pieces (too short by 3/4" but that's another story) and then used the jointer for the first time in years on the edges to be able to glue two pieces making one almost 7" wide.
Then through the surface planer and table saw to square off one end, to width and the jointer again clean up the sawn side.
Next into the JGRO CNC router. Too much dust so one of the 42 projects was finished to make the dust shoe easily removable and installable.
And this where it sits now.
I'm finding the spruce is really too soft. Should have splurged for maple but this cost $18 and the closest maple in the size I needed was closer to $100.
Because I cut the original pieces a tad too short I'm playing around with where I put the two cup holes.
Doggggboy
Ultra Member
And now I'm hungry.
Ready for the Tacos and sauce.
A little humour now...
Doggggboy
Ultra Member
So some of only get 2 tacos and some of you get 3?
Very observant. My wife would be happy with 2 while I'd probably eat 3. But what's cool is the metal form can be flipped for 2 or 3 so I set the photo up to show that.
What's the sauce? Referring to your first post on this, obviously you could use whatever you'd like
Doggggboy
Ultra Member
I thought maybe the forms were attached somehow and there was just household rationing taking place.
Or favouritism.
From:
Fish Tacos Recipe with Best Fish Taco Sauce!
Our go-to Fish Tacos Recipe for entertaining! Easy, excellent fish tacos with the best fish taco sauce; an irresistible lime crema. Rave reviews every time!
natashaskitchen.com
3. Combine all the Taco sauce ingredients: 1/2 cup sour cream, 1/3 cup Mayo, 2 Tbsp lime juice (from 1 medium lime), 1 tsp garlic powder, 1 tsp Sriracha sauce, or to taste in a medium bowl or a large measuring cup and whisk together until well blended.
Connected up the ReoLink Argus 3 Camera+Solar Panelthat I picked up heavily discounted at London Drugs. Really don't like being on tall ladders anymore. Not sure the Solar Panel will be effective. So many trees.
And as yet although the PIR motion detection works within the small range it can see, the ability for the software to scan the image and detect motion doesn't seem to be working. And this particular model also requires a hub for connecting to Home Assistant.
Anyway, we'll see how it goes. The upside of the ReoLink is it doesn't require any sort of cloud subscription compared to all the other ones out there. The Blink camera from Amazon wants a certain amount per month for better motion detection and playing videos when we're out of the country. More when I learn more.
And as yet although the PIR motion detection works within the small range it can see, the ability for the software to scan the image and detect motion doesn't seem to be working. And this particular model also requires a hub for connecting to Home Assistant.
Anyway, we'll see how it goes. The upside of the ReoLink is it doesn't require any sort of cloud subscription compared to all the other ones out there. The Blink camera from Amazon wants a certain amount per month for better motion detection and playing videos when we're out of the country. More when I learn more.
This is the Logitech Alert Commander which was essentially trashed even though the cameras were still good because Adobe Flash Player was discontinued. The areas in the squares are where motion is detected. The camera is powered via power over ethernet and the original connection on this camera was powerline networking until that unit failed. Now it's directly wired to an ethernet switch.
The Amazon BLINK camera (subscription require for AI motion detection) is done this way. We can see the mail and package delivery without too many false readings from critters like a black and white cat.
The Reolink is interesting in that you paint over the area you don't want in the detection zone. But because it's battery operated the PIR has to first see something and then the AI takes over.
Jury is still out whether I'll have enough sunlight to charge the battery.
Back to the AR3 Robot arm. I need to machine this:
The problem is that it's longer than the X motion of my mill so I need to mill it in two operation sets and keep it properly aligned. I think my approach may be overkill but with the ACME lead screws and backlash may well be the best alignment method. I've put all the info into the attached PDF as a user instruction manual to myself.
First step will be to make the alignment pins.
The problem is that it's longer than the X motion of my mill so I need to mill it in two operation sets and keep it properly aligned. I think my approach may be overkill but with the ACME lead screws and backlash may well be the best alignment method. I've put all the info into the attached PDF as a user instruction manual to myself.
First step will be to make the alignment pins.
So here's the first of the two clamp studs. Only mistake is misreading (or forgetting) and making the overall length about 0.2" too short. Should be fine.
First the top turned down to exactly 0.25" and then the threaded length a tad thinner. Then 20 TPI for 0.5" threading.
Cut it short and mount the 1/2" part now in a 1/2" collet and remove 0.002" just to clean it up and make it round. Then 16 TPI for 1.048" and it's done. Oh and edges were bevelled before threading.
Love my ELS. But for the last pass of the 1/4" registration section I should have dropped down to 0.003" per rev instead of leaving it at 0.010" per rev.
First the top turned down to exactly 0.25" and then the threaded length a tad thinner. Then 20 TPI for 0.5" threading.
Cut it short and mount the 1/2" part now in a 1/2" collet and remove 0.002" just to clean it up and make it round. Then 16 TPI for 1.048" and it's done. Oh and edges were bevelled before threading.
Love my ELS. But for the last pass of the 1/4" registration section I should have dropped down to 0.003" per rev instead of leaving it at 0.010" per rev.
Before I make the second one or two more the correct length I thought I'd try the fit first.
The hole on the bottom clears the nut and washer. I think the washer should be a bit bigger in diameter but it's really just required to hold the alignment pin in place. Not a lot of pressure on the T-Nut.
I drilled the 1/4" hole undersize and then reamed it to 0.25". It's a sliding close tolerance fit on the pin. The nut and washer help hold it in position but I believe it would still be smart to have additional clamps.
The hole on the bottom clears the nut and washer. I think the washer should be a bit bigger in diameter but it's really just required to hold the alignment pin in place. Not a lot of pressure on the T-Nut.
I drilled the 1/4" hole undersize and then reamed it to 0.25". It's a sliding close tolerance fit on the pin. The nut and washer help hold it in position but I believe it would still be smart to have additional clamps.
Being very careful always approaching from the left to make sure backlash isn't an issue I drilled and reamed the alignment holes.
Then set up where the recessed and clamp down holes would be on the backing board.
To set the exact spot of the pins I put one in at X==0.000 and then moved to 3.441" and held it there and tightened it down.
I might try it with an R8-1/2" collet instead. But I'm finding the holes I drilled so carefully are almost but not quite aligned. Could be the T-Nuts don't hold them perfectly perpendicular. Might have to make custom T-Nuts. Don't really want to enlarge the alignment holes.
Then set up where the recessed and clamp down holes would be on the backing board.
To set the exact spot of the pins I put one in at X==0.000 and then moved to 3.441" and held it there and tightened it down.
I might try it with an R8-1/2" collet instead. But I'm finding the holes I drilled so carefully are almost but not quite aligned. Could be the T-Nuts don't hold them perfectly perpendicular. Might have to make custom T-Nuts. Don't really want to enlarge the alignment holes.
I think I'll do the small holes first.
