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JCDammeyer's 42 projects

Just to be clear here too the Machinist Workshop of course expecting that I have a $100K US HAAS and need to turn out 2,000 parts per hour comes up with these incredible values for 6061 Al and this is for a finishing pass.
1772088039783.png

Seriously although I can effortlessly do 110 IPM the 12,806 RPM is almost 4.5x the amount I can spin my tool bit. So instead I cut down the Surface Speed FPM to 180 and get more reasonable values.
1772088264147.png

But I'm assuming this would still be with full 3 nozzle flood coolant? After all this part is only 14mm thick (0.551") so theoretically I could cut this out in one pass.

1772088520405.png

But that's way too optimistic right?
Say I am cutting this out of a larger piece of plate. Then it's really slotting isn't it? Now the axial depth of cut drops to 0.09843" or 2.5mm per pass.

1772088633142.png

If I set it to 2mm per pass for example it looks like this with 8 passes and the last just a tiny bit to get past into the spoil board. This is with 0.05mm outside of the final dimension. Then just a full depth cleanup pass.

1772088832624.png

For an experienced machinist with a non-HAAS CNC mill what would you use for this?
 
A friend who knows I'm doing a robot arm sent me a link to a video.

This is why I'm building my own:

AI Overview

Productive Robotics OB7 collaborative robots generally range from
$24,900 to over $35,900 for the arm alone, depending on the model (standard, Stretch, or Max 8/12) and payload capacity. Complete application packages, such as CNC machine tending or welding, typically start around $35,900 to $75,000.
Click to expand...

But the video shows the general idea I had for a tool changer and even a raw material in and finished part out process. For now though it's just a hobby.
 
I've added a small 24V to 5V power supply board and 3D printed a cover for the high voltage AC area. Just need to figure out how to mount that plastic back panel for the connectors and then start wiring.

The only hitch was the first DC-DC converter I installed didn't work. Had to drill and tap new holes and new mounting slots for a different one. Turns out the DC-DC I had chosen was a step up, not step down.

And drilling holes by hand while things are mounted on the panel never seems to put the holes quite where I wanted. Not the smartest process in the world.

ControlUnit-1.jpg
ControlUnit-2.png

ControlUnit-3.png
 
DavidR8 said:
I have the perfect spot for those but if you're gonna be like that... 😀

Do you have a link to those John?
Click to expand...
www.aliexpress.com

24pcs/set Round type 5C collet spring collet chuck High Precision 5C Collet Set 3-26mm for CNC machine milling lathe tool - AliExpress 1420

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
www.aliexpress.com www.aliexpress.com

But be aware. The shipping is DHL and they charge PST/GST and Clearing cost of $18. It's also really heavy so it makes sense it wouldn't go post.

All said though the total cost was still way way less than KBC Tools since this set is 3mm-26mm in 1mm steps.

I have a 5C Spin Indexer and a square and hex 5C Collet block not to mention the South Bend takes 5C Collets. The imperial set I have doesn't have the range to clamp onto a 17mm diameter shaft.

Now when all is said and done if I'd just bought all the metal parts for the Robot Arm from Anin Robotics:
anninrobotics.com

AR4 MK4 Aluminum Parts Kit - Annin Robotics

Aluminum parts kit incudes all the primary structural components to build the AR4 MK3 robot.
anninrobotics.com anninrobotics.com
for $699 US ($952.90 Cdn) I'd likely have saved money given all the tooling I've purchased but the pluses are I still have the tooling and I'm learning lots about metal machining and 3D printing.
 
This is the piece that needs to be held in the 17mm collet.
1773360132381.png
I see it starting out as 2.375" round stock. Turn the 17mm section on the lathe from that. Then part to length plus a tad. Put it in the collet and turn the other end which needs to be dead on with the 17mm part.
Next into the 4 sided collet block and mill the flat sections plus drill holes and bore the centre hole.
 

Attachments

jcdammeyer said:
Well crap! Now I have to build a 24 collet holder and figure out where to put it.
Oh and before @DavidR8 chimes in that I can put it beside his lathe the answer is it's staying in my shop. 😛
Click to expand...
An afternoon with some sheet metal, a Roper sheet metal punch, a Greenlee chassis punch, and a Busy Bee brake. No power tools required, all done by hand.

Mine is located just beside my lathe tail stock, since I mostly use the 5C chuck in my lathe. YMMV.

IMG_0224.jpeg
 
whydontu said:
An afternoon with some sheet metal, a Roper sheet metal punch, a Greenlee chassis punch, and a Busy Bee brake. No power tools required, all done by hand.

Mine is located just beside my lathe tail stock, since I mostly use the 5C chuck in my lathe. YMMV.

View attachment 79432
Click to expand...
Here's what I've got for the imperial collets. Sits on a post clamped to the back V-Way. The hanger below holds the drawbar.
ImperialCollets.jpg

Meanwhile here is where the metric ones live in that red cabinet to the right of the lathe.
MetricCollets.jpg

No reason I can't make a 24cm x 24cm flat board with 24 holes spaced the same as the imperial holder and just put it on legs (so to speak) inside the drawer. They'd all sit upright just like on the main holder. I might even find myself moving the 1/16" collet, for example, into the drawer and replace it with a commonly used metric one.
 
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