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JCDammeyer's 42 projects

So did you find that as a photo online or is it something you wire-wrapped yourself. And if you did make it what is it?
Cheating, just a photo grabbed online. But I have done that, my first computer was an RCA 1802 with 256 bytes of RAM on the motherboard and a 1k add-on card made by wirewap. Also built wire wrapped analog synthesizer boards back in the day. I still have a nearly-new roll of 32ga wire and all the tools to do wrapping, just no current projects that justify digging out the gear.
 
Cheating, just a photo grabbed online. But I have done that, my first computer was an RCA 1802 with 256 bytes of RAM on the motherboard and a 1k add-on card made by wirewap. Also built wire wrapped analog synthesizer boards back in the day. I still have a nearly-new roll of 32ga wire and all the tools to do wrapping, just no current projects that justify digging out the gear.
I've done a fair amount of wirewrap. My first was a 48K dynamic memory board that all the engineers I knew said it wouldn't work because of the transients etc. Used +5V, +12V, -5V power all wired with 22g wire soldered to the pins along with bypass caps. The rest was all wirewrap.

WW-48K-Back.jpg

WW-48K-Front.jpg

I later laid out a board with tape and donuts and made one that a friend used.

Another interesting project was a graphics board using the uPD7220 from NEC. All the support software was in FORTH.

uPD7220AD_Front.jpguPD7220AD_Rear.jpg

Ah the good old days.
 
OK. Status report. Rain has stopped for a day or two. Dug a wider opening closer to the house beside the hole in the pipe to determine if it was damaged and to get a dimension.
Success.

WidthOfSewerPipe.jpg

This black fibre based pipe is 4.75" in diameter. Under the rock and plastic is the hole.

SewerPipe4.75InchOD.jpg

The spare old white PVC drain pipe gifted from a friend after his parents house was reworked is 4.5" diameter.
SparePipe4.5InchOD.jpg

Total distance to cleanout if I wanted to replace it all is 13.5' Length of this stuff at Rona is 12' with the expanded flange for coupling at I think it was $35 each.

At the moment I'm tempted just to cut a short piece because hand digging 13' of hardpan clay/rock to release the existing pipe doesn't appeal to me. OTOH, widening the trench to the left of the hole is only another hours work. Once my back stops hurting.

So what to use to couple 4.75" pipe that is rough on the outside to PVC that is 4.5" and smooth on the outside. Will the rubber with stainless clamps stretch enough? Will they be waterproof?
 
4.75" O.D. is an oddball. Standard IPS pipe is 4.5" O.D. Ductile iron water main is 4.9" O.D., but couplings for DI are designed for 300 PSI and get really spendy. Cast iron soil pipe is 4.44" O.D.. Bartle & Gibson might be able to get you a Fernco 1051-44 coupling, it would work and give you a water-tight joint between the junk pipe and new PVC.

 
OK. Status report. Rain has stopped for a day or two. Dug a wider opening closer to the house beside the hole in the pipe to determine if it was damaged and to get a dimension.
Success.

View attachment 72211

This black fibre based pipe is 4.75" in diameter. Under the rock and plastic is the hole.

View attachment 72209

The spare old white PVC drain pipe gifted from a friend after his parents house was reworked is 4.5" diameter.
View attachment 72210

Total distance to cleanout if I wanted to replace it all is 13.5' Length of this stuff at Rona is 12' with the expanded flange for coupling at I think it was $35 each.

At the moment I'm tempted just to cut a short piece because hand digging 13' of hardpan clay/rock to release the existing pipe doesn't appeal to me. OTOH, widening the trench to the left of the hole is only another hours work. Once my back stops hurting.

So what to use to couple 4.75" pipe that is rough on the outside to PVC that is 4.5" and smooth on the outside. Will the rubber with stainless clamps stretch enough? Will they be waterproof?
I think waterproof wouldn't be a problem but not sure about stretching.
This may be the ticket https://www.fernco.ca/sites/default/files/literature/fernco_xj_flyer_8-4.pdf
 
This one's explicitly designed for Orangeburg:

 
This one's explicitly designed for Orangeburg:

Looks it should be able to handle everything from rage pooping to Taco Tuesday.
 
Thanks guys.

I think the 1051-44 will likely work as the caliper dimension could just as easily have been 4.8" rather than 4.75". Especially I suppose if some RTV were also to be layered around the pipe before tightening the clamp.

Now the thlot pickens too. Look at this photo.

PatchedSewerPipe.jpg

It's already been patched once! The huge rock was buried beside the pipe. The brick on the other side. That rock was likely tipped into the trench by a back hoe. Damaged the pipe visibly where they glued a patch. Less visibly where the hole is now. I suspect they didn't see that it had made the pipe out of round.

Very sad.
 
This one's explicitly designed for Orangeburg:

Only $246 each and I'd need two and they aren't in stock. Luckily B&G have two of the 1051-44 in stock for $19 each so I'm headed out now.
 
Only $246 each and I'd need two and they aren't in stock. Luckily B&G have two of the 1051-44 in stock for $19 each so I'm headed out now.
Ouch! I kind of thought the Hulk would be insanely expensive, but it’s been 30 years since the last time I sold Fernco stuff.

Installer trick - put some dish soap on the 1051 before you install it - makes it a lot easier to align.
 
Ouch! I kind of thought the Hulk would be insanely expensive, but it’s been 30 years since the last time I sold Fernco stuff.

Installer trick - put some dish soap on the 1051 before you install it - makes it a lot easier to align.
I was wondering what would work to slide them onto the plastic pipe. Great suggestions.

B&G said they had two on their web site. Went in. They couldn't find them. Nothing at Rona. Wolsely doesn't have any here but theoretically has 7 in Duncan. But they close at 4PM so I'd have to head out tomorrow morning.
Or just let Amazon deliver them on Friday and they are cheaper. Linda works on Saturday so no one will accidentally flush a toilet or turn on a tap while I've got the pipes apart.
 
I thought we were all quite happy to just blame David, were we not ?
You're right. Normally I would. But in this case his sewer pipe seeking steel posts were no where near the actual damage.

However, I fully hold @DavidR8 responsible for the lack of inventory at B&G. My guess is as soon as the part number was posted, now that he has all this free time, he dashed over there and bought the two and paid them off to be quiet about that.
Notice how quiet he's been? The silence of the guilty.😉

The ditch is all cleaned out. I washed down the pipe sections I intend on cutting with the hose. Eventually the water in the ditch will seep away. I bought a longer 14 TPI blade for my Dewalt Sawzall so I can cleanly cut through the pipes. Now it's just waiting for the adapters.
 
To pressurize or not to pressurize... that is the question.
This is my HERBUS.

Disappointment.jpg

It was a bit of a disappointment. Plants didn't really grow well and natural ventilation was thought to be the cause. Got a bit warm inside and not enough CO2 for the plants to thrive on.
So there have been discussions on the Discord on adding a fan. But the questions was where too put it and how big to make it and how noisy would it be?

So I used the same 200mm fan I have on my CNC cabinet.

VentedEnclosrure.jpg

But 3D printed a new frame to hold the fan on the outside. The new frame would have to be an extra 30mm deep to not have the fan interfere with the inner shelves. This seemed easier.

LargeFanDoor-1.jpg

I still need to cut the clear plastic panels and wire it up to the relay. Control is via Home Assistant and can be either Temperature, Humidity or both.

But the question is. Should the fan pressurize the cabinet or as it's set up now suck air out?
 
But the question is. Should the fan pressurize the cabinet or as it's set up now suck air out?

Could that answer be found in an assessment of the natural altitude that your plants prefer? Sucking would seem appropriate for high altitude plants and pressuring for low altitude. You could even strike a balance based on that.

Another thought is that most chemical processes prefer a bit of pressure to help speed up the interactions. I would think that photosynthesis would be similar.
 
Yeah I'm thinking I'll turn the fan around. Even a bit of air circulation creating movement is probably good for the plants too simulating the real world.
 
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