Nice tooling. I don't quite understand, does the wrench (lower handle part in picture) somehow fit on the chuck key (upper part in picture) or are they 2 separate tools?
Time change being what it is, @a smile is prolly snoring.
The bottom part is the handle for the top part. It's designed to act like a t-handle or a spinner so you can crank the chuck key in or out quickly. The spinner had some extra length for leverage when needed.
Nice tooling. I don't quite understand, does the wrench (lower handle part in picture) somehow fit on the chuck key (upper part in picture) or are they 2 separate tools?
Reason I ask is I made a chuck key from hex stock to use on standard socket wrench / torque wrench if desired. But it needs a magnet or permanent bond of tool to socket. I tried a magnet but downside is it also attracts chips to outside & tool eventually become magnetized. Brazing or welding is not good with the chrome socket coating, although there are ways around that. Yes I agree, tall T-style chuck wrench is not always the most convenient. View attachment 38323View attachment 38324
Machine a groove around the hex end. Drill an incomplete hole through the side of the socket. Pop a ball bearing into the hole, place a spring ring around the o.d. of the socket.
Works better than a magnet, a bit fiddly to get the hole depth correct, but doesn’t attract chips.
Nice tooling. I don't quite understand, does the wrench (lower handle part in picture) somehow fit on the chuck key (upper part in picture) or are they 2 separate tools?
Reason I ask is I made a chuck key from hex stock to use on standard socket wrench / torque wrench if desired. But it needs a magnet or permanent bond of tool to socket. I tried a magnet but downside is it also attracts chips to outside & tool eventually become magnetized. Brazing or welding is not good with the chrome socket coating, although there are ways around that. Yes I agree, tall T-style chuck wrench is not always the most convenient. View attachment 38323View attachment 38324
That is my semi-decomposed state of the photo, one is for the convenience of packaging (suitable for transportation), the second is to reduce the cumbersome installation, after all, the number of parts is a little too much, starting from scratch assembly for the buyer's experience will not be too good.
You can choose not to use magnets, but installing elastic lock beads requires drilling, tapping, or a mounting process. I chose threaded mounting - the advantage is that it can be replaced and the elasticity can be adjusted appropriately.
I'm still not understanding. A socket drive wrench has something like a ball spring which engages a matching hole or groove in the female socket. The socket can drive a male hex bolt head in torque but can freely come off. My chuck key tool is a plain hex like a bolt, but how do I marry that to the wrench/socket? That's why I thought just sacrifice a socket & join it to the key. Brazing or welding or glueing seemed easiest because drilling/tapping the socket would be pretty tough as its probably forged & not much wall thickness to work with.
Ball & Spring Plungers Spring and Ball Plungers are devices that enclose a spring in a threaded capsule and provide a means of applying accurate and repeatable spring end forces through a ball or rounded nose. Also known as Spring Loaded Devices (SLDs), the unique features of ball and spring...
Sure. We all know how a socket is retained on a drive wrench. The spring ball detents within the matching hole/groove/recess in the socket drive end & the socket stays put.
I'm using a socket to drive my chuck key hex to hex, just like torqueing a bolt head. All good, but but I want the hex key to stay put retained within the socket.
Welding, brazing, gluing, magnet... are all options. But now we are talking about a spring plunger. Where? I thought maybe where blue dot shown, but its thin wall & tough stuff.
Sure. We all know how a socket is retained on a drive wrench. The spring ball detents within the matching hole/groove/recess in the socket drive end & the socket stays put.
I'm using a socket to drive my chuck key hex to hex, just like torqueing a bolt head. All good, but but I want the hex key to stay put retained within the socket.
Welding, brazing, gluing, magnet... are all options. But now we are talking about a spring plunger. Where? I thought maybe where blue dot shown, but its thin wall & tough stuff.
Drill and countersink a hole at your blue dot, of proper depth and diameter to hold a ball bearing that is slightly larger than the hole. Add some style of ball retainer on the o.d. of the socket, elastic band, PEX ring, whatever. Drill a mating dimple or machine a groove around the bit that engages the ball. If you look at common 1/4” hex bits, most of the cheap shanks use a magnet to hold the bit. The one in the photo I posted uses a ball and circular spring band to hold the bit, and the bits have a groove to engage the ball. Think of it as the standard 3/8” square drive ratchet and socket arrangement, just with the ball and groove/dimple locations swapped.
Here is another solution, I drilled the hole first and then made the hole outlet slightly smaller using a riveting punch (made separately). Find the right size steel ball) can fit into the drilled hole, then add the spring, then plug the spring tail - finished!
If you need to compare the positioning force, you can buy a small diameter alloy drill bit, measure the position, and punch a small hole (about 3mm) in the hexagonal sleeve at the position of the marble to form a perfect card hole
Here is another solution, I drilled the hole first and then made the hole outlet slightly smaller using a riveting punch (made separately). Find the right size steel ball) can fit into the drilled hole, then add the spring, then plug the spring tail - finished!
If you need to compare the positioning force, you can buy a small diameter alloy drill bit, measure the position, and punch a small hole (about 3mm) in the hexagonal sleeve at the position of the marble to form a perfect card hole
My advice: Don't hesitate, don't expect it to be perfect the first time, you will find that it is not as difficult as you thought, and you will find better solutions in the process of making!
While making a good chuck key is a must, don't forget the key(s) rack.
My Lathe chucks use two different sizes and keeping both at hand, out of the scarf, out of the way and not on top of the gearbox ready to be knocked off at the most inopportune moment.
So on my lathe I've added two rings on the skirt by the gearbox to hold them, close at hand, not in the way and secure.
Sure. We all know how a socket is retained on a drive wrench. The spring ball detents within the matching hole/groove/recess in the socket drive end & the socket stays put.
I'm using a socket to drive my chuck key hex to hex, just like torqueing a bolt head. All good, but but I want the hex key to stay put retained within the socket.
Welding, brazing, gluing, magnet... are all options. But now we are talking about a spring plunger. Where? I thought maybe where blue dot shown, but its thin wall & tough stuff.
Peter
I’m confused. Why not put a Ball spring plunger into your square to hex adapter? And the blue dot is where a detent would go on the inside of the socket. Maybe grind the detent with a small rotary tool and stone? Or perhaps with a die grinder? I.e. it’s just like the commercial square drive and socket detent.
The socket wall thickness is thin, guessing 2mm so no room for spring ball detent there. But maybe you mean put the ball spring on in the hex shank (orange) & the blue would be a straightforward hole to engage the ball? That would work. I'm almost leaning towards the cross drill + roll pin if I'm going to drill it anyways, just leave them engaged. Once upon a time PA had onsey's for a couple bucks, but it wouldn't be the first time inflation changed my plans.
The socket wall thickness is thin, guessing 2mm so no room for spring ball detent there. But maybe you mean put the ball spring on in the hex shank (orange) & the blue would be a straightforward hole to engage the ball? That would work. I'm almost leaning towards the cross drill + roll pin if I'm going to drill it anyways, just leave them engaged. Once upon a time PA had onsey's for a couple bucks, but it wouldn't be the first time inflation changed my plans.
