Hello and welding question

[Mttr402]

Hi all:
New to the forum. Looking for some recommendations on what to buy. Would like to be able to weld Metal/Steel, Aluminum and Stainless. Mainly for fixing broken things but also to do some small projects. Don't think I will go past 1/4" thickness very often. Took stick welding (80 hours) and gas welding/cutting torch (80 hours) courses about 40 years ago in Germany but haven't done much welding in the last 10 years. Contemplating if I should go for gas MIG or TIG.
On some other forums I saw the recommendation to get a 240 Volt (or 110/240 Volt) stick/TIG machine. Uncertain if I will use it very often so also looking for low cost of ownership. Don't have any experience how expensive it is to maintain a gas bottle (certifications, etc.). Want to spend as little as possible but willing to spend as much as necessary to get a good solution. Where to go in Calgary for welding machines and supply? Much appreciated!
Thanks,

Gunter

Well there is lots to think about.
I have a Thermal ARC 186 ) ac/dc (Tig and stick with pedal and dial current control on torch ) and a Mig Lincoln 140C (commercial version). Sometimes I wished I had one that did TIG/Mig/Stick as one. The Thermal is 240v hence thicker welding and the Mig is 120v. The 140c has option for spot but they want 400 for a small IC board. I am of the thought to get one with as many options that are available withing your price range. Once you have it and get use to it you will be surprise how often you can use it. You will also find that Oh I should have got that one extra option. Example would be the single pulse option on my TIG or Mig that is not or no longer available. I use the the Mig with gas but also use the flux core if outdoors (use vegatable spray on parts) it a none hazzard way to keep splatter off parts.
So a unit that is both 240 and 120, Tig AC/DC (ac for aluminum). You have to use a stiffer aluminum wire like ER5356. Just google on how to. I would also suggest that a name brand and at a local store if possible is by far a better option because if say you buy from Princes Auto (nothing against PA) but if it breaks after warrenty forget about getting it serviced.

 

[Downwindtracker2]

Here in Vancouver, if a Miller, Lincoln or even a Magnum pack it in, they all go to the same independent service center. There have been some horror stories with some of the online purchased machines. It worth while doing the research before purchase.

 

[Mttr402]

I agree as I was looking to purchase my welders that I decided to buy a brand as I was worried about what would happen with say Princess Auto brand. I inquired about warranty and the unit would be replaced the first year (or what every the warranty called for ) but after that nothing.

 

[Opieshuffle]

The best piece of welding advice I can give is "practice". I took the full course at a local community college on Sundays. Did all courses in stick (then did MIG) as if I was going to take the test to become certified. I can tell you the only difference between day 1 of the course and day last is burning rods and the teacher showing you "tricks" and "positions" to get better welds. I have a small DC inverter stick from Princess Auto (goes on sale for $99 from time to time.) Great for small jobs. I have a Lincoln 180HD for all other welding (including a spool gun for Aluminum) If I'm telling you mild steel needs practice, Aluminum needs more. A lot more. That metal just wants to MELT! I've actually had more success "brazing" aluminum (with solder and clean aluminum) Tried my hand at "welding" aluminum with my O/A, aluminum tig rods and solder. It wasn't bad. But again... practice and patience!

 

[Tom O]

What goggles did you use for O/A aluminum? I read somewhere years ago to use Cobalt? To see the puddle.

 

[CWret]

I don't use O/A goggles, just my welding hood.
I believe that a great welding helmet is your best step towards good welding (or brazing).
A great welding hood will not make you a great welder. I am a poor welder with a great welding hood.
My eyes are rather important to me. OK - EXTREMELY IMPORTANT - to me. I want (NEED) the best protection I can get for my eyes!
In my shop, I wear safety glasses. When using the chop saw, bench grinder, or hand disc grinder, I also wear a face shield.
I was a Bronze Medalion lifeguard at age 15.
I was an EMT (Emergency Medical Technician).
I have saved at least 2 lives in my career.
I was the Safety Director and Leader of the Mine Rescue Team at a coal mine.
Safety is in my blood.
I have had 3 Optrel welding hoods. I upgraded as better models came along. They are made in Switzerland.
Optrel is the leader in welding hood technology.
I now have the Optrel Panoramaxx CLT.
The CLT is not just the best welding eye protection you can get (IMO) but the CLT also allows you to see the colours in the puddle. Suttle changes are easy to distinguish. Fantastic for TIG. Also awesome for plasma cutting since the CLT goes to shade level 5.

 

[Susquatch]

Also awesome for plasma cutting since the CLT goes to shade level 5.

Time to display some ignorance for the sake of improving safety.

Are the shade levels an industry standard?

If so, how reliable are they?

Is there a chart of shade level vs process? (ie 5 for plasma etc)

If not, what is the recommended method for setting the shade level?

This info might belong in our tips N tricks forum.

 

[CWret]

Yes this thread has grown with lots of good comments about welding from several experienced welders (trained & certified not just self-taught hacks like me). IMO moving to tips & tricks section is a good idea. (make it so @Susquatch)

Yes there is an industry standard for the welding hood darkness. Most commonly used shades range from shade 9 to 11 but also go up to shade 13 for the darkest shade. There is likely a chart available somewhere. Auto darkening hoods will automatically switch to the appropriate shade for the optimal protection while maintaining good visibility of the weld puddle. Shade 4 or 5 is common for plasma cutting.
More expensive auto darkening hoods will have lots of control over the parameters like: amount of darkening, sensitivity, initial delay, and how quickly or slowly the darkening turns off. Premium hoods will show colour changes in and around the puddle (which is great for TIG).
Premium hoods also offer a PAPR version (Purified Air Purifying Respirator) which supplies a filter air supply to the hood. The PAPR option is normally about a $1000 extra.

 

[Susquatch]

IMO moving to tips & tricks section is a good idea.

I'll wait till all the comments from the team are in. Then I'll do it - maybe as a copy of the informative posts.

 

[BldrJ]

I started with a mig welder, mostly for some stairs and factory-style windows I was doing for a project. I was told TIG was just too slow or difficult.
I hate grinding, even more so with a carbide burr to get a nice architectural finish.
6 years or so I got an Everlast 250ex and have barely touched my mig since, except for a trailer repair, which I could’ve done with TIG anyway.
I’ve done a fair bit of autogenous welding (without filler) and much prefer not grinding. Stainless, aluminum, bronze and even brass. If you can solder you can TIG.
I overheated the torch once (I should’ve used the water cooled torch) bought replacement parts easily in Burlington and had no problems at all with the unit.
Speed is usually not an issue for me, nice looking welds are.
I wouldn’t do a large project with TIG that could be done with MIG, except to get the experience, and to avoid sparks flying everywhere (main reason I like TIG)

 

[sammyyyc]

Hi all:
Thanks for all the good suggestions! At the moment can't justify spending a few K for a TIG/ MIG/Stick welder because I don't really have much time to explore and practice. I ended up buying a used stick welder on Kijiji that's heavy and old. Anticipate that it will last a few decades more. Will keep an eye on Kijiji and FB Marketplace to see if I can pick up a reasonable priced TIG/MIG/Stick unit down the road. Will keep you posted!
Cheers,

Gunter

 

[phaxtris]

Hi all:
Thanks for all the good suggestions! At the moment can't justify spending a few K for a TIG/ MIG/Stick welder because I don't really have much time to explore and practice. I ended up buying a used stick welder on Kijiji that's heavy and old. Anticipate that it will last a few decades more. Will keep an eye on Kijiji and FB Marketplace to see if I can pick up a reasonable priced TIG/MIG/Stick unit down the road. Will keep you posted!
Cheers,

Gunter

so long as the machine you bought is dc you can tig with it, just no foot pedal

 

[Susquatch]

so long as the machine you bought is dc you can tig with it, just no foot pedal

Really? I didn't know that..... So I've had a tig welder here all this time and didn't know it......

I shall have to learn more!

 

[phaxtris]

Really? I didn't know that..... So I've had a tig welder here all this time and didn't know it......

I shall have to learn more!

yes, just get yourself a torch with a gas valve, a power cable adapter (splits off the gas and gives you a lug for a power cable), and a bottle

you hook it up straight polarity, and you will have to turn the gas on manually on the torch, then its just a scratch start tig, your amperage is whatever you have set at the machine.

its old-school but it works just fine, that is how i was taught tig welding, on a not so old at the time miller dial-arc with a manual gas valve torch

touch start and high freq came later (still a very long time ago) as a way to reduce the tungsten inclusions that came with scratch start. Not an issue for general welding, but not desirable on x-ray and UT type work

 

[Susquatch]

yes, just get yourself a torch with a gas valve, a power cable adapter (splits off the gas and gives you a lug for a power cable), and a bottle

I have a Lincoln tombstone ac/dc. I also have Argon and CO2 for my Lincoln Mig 180.

By a torch & valve, do you mean this:

Amazon.ca

 

[phaxtris]

yes just like that, be aware that has a dinse connector, and the gas hose is probably not long enough to reach your bottle

so for that probably need a longer gas hose, and depending on your setup you may be able to just clamp your stinger onto the dinse connector, or put a dinse connector on your machine

edit; im also unsure how steady the arc is on a ac/dc tombstone, i dont know if it has any capacitors to smooth things out or just a couple scr's, you would find out

 

[Tom O]

I got mine from PA although it was more than Amazon is charging I only used it for panel replacement though and I found it was easier to start it on the filler rod instead of blowing a hole into it.

 

[Susquatch]

or put a dinse connector on your machine

Can I just install a dinse on my tombstone in parallel with the existing output and connect to that?

so for that probably need a longer gas hose,

My bottles are small. I could just move the bottle over to my tombstone.

im also unsure how steady the arc is on a ac/dc tombstone, i dont know if it has any capacitors to smooth things out or just a couple scr's, you would find out

I suppose I could put a scope on it in DC welding mode to find out before I waste any coin. I assume you can't tell till you have enough current flowing.

 

[phaxtris]

ya you could scop it under load to see if it looks like a purely rectified ac signal without smoothing, it would still weld if it wasn't, im just not sure how nice the arc would be

you could install a dinse in parallel if you wanted, if you have an alligator style stinger it may go large enough to just clamp the dinse connector in the jaws

 

[Susquatch]

ya you could scop it under load to see if it looks like a purely rectified ac signal without smoothing, it would still weld if it wasn't, im just not sure how nice the arc would be

you could install a dinse in parallel if you wanted, if you have an alligator style stinger it may go large enough to just clamp the dinse connector in the jaws

The more you tell me, the less I feel like I know. I need more knowledge.