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CA-BC Grizzly order - anyone on South Island need anything?

British Columbia
Type
Tool

curmudgeon

(Steve)
I plan on placing a small order with Grizzly in the next few days. Does anyone on the South Island need anything? They ship by UPS, and I'm going to try self clearance to avoid the outrageous UPS brokerage fees.

While replacing a ball-oiler on the cross slide of my G0602 10x22 lathe, I discovered that the cross slide leadscrew nut was broken; I recall the PO saying that the cross slide backlash used to be great but needed adjusting when I picked it up. Now I know why...

6teCDsJ3rRMzWA3BKgUMF_BKovjR0IgRI9b7xeSaHD9OpejsTtGV5N0xNLP8EagtM-b92Dy46Xd45TvDUs7GRKgl0EJQCtm9ZrkKEX7Go0WW1C15O_IerYpm7M-7vU8Aq2GV7N3-4-6UR6B_N9I3K4M3iCM8oKTXKfSlN1iKGq_9keOeU6I8WwjF9v892_nTMM6RwoaLId3ES9W6oWpu5HEuDl5UZKzM71fRNO13yMqkDhX--cqEmCwRyzZ7WwIN7MxrAxazVzrkzBIhgEWpWHwyCzX8x7kf05kJkleB5NzWabAUyHNAg5hn3296qEOFbR7ZSJAZYp4ZkTUfkQQzqisnxB5TLBriJmag4Vpgd0XiIuw0tSlPOdWdzb4QrQ1kCdJp0NmtSuKcveUZwHME-1tVyzcFGnZkWHroxJUc8E8AvckTQvwegoF-pPPkG3qFGCqXjLIYekUDh8RvWDmgXhrD2gd9niUmyQW1t3AGJFvttOJRQALu6GeY9mc17armj-NU0nHB3wV-yyxJedh1dufe8CRtBhSooMbT2iR9P7bm-4YEeMoLYxnHX0Grz_6Eo2H7AZFs-4ZajH4equOPHJcOe0-NpAri-acc8PcixuE3wwzMXTl5Iw_juqp0j8Q-MqVL_XgRJQYw2kzl4K711WPBNVun16C5eXI8UdVupVBlAS4yuXACP7CmFZzT88BV0LY-yVB0yK1C2u6w-kfO6w248NPQFGBqYFcwX7YhgHh1i_-SZGPhV-IR_Tef6pNZCWWE0TC17CeLqUrIBV0iolElbpTEQC4CzHCXxXaSxnKCj2u_az7cM_qan3TnhPlm1hF0bVIEr8MAggOKEDPA_Xi2UvzvVn3gXzraQfzCQ38HmVSJHb03dCfVtvnJyvxt4w1Lvn4jy-emt_fP4_qLOm33vxDmULK-xbqEq7SOgPSY=w1216-h933-s-no


The King KC-1022ML parts diagram looks almost the same as the G0602, but it doesn't look like they stock it anymore, something about "Substitute Banks Item", otherwise I would have tried a Canadian supplier.

I considered trying to make one, but I'm not as brave, experienced, or as well equipped as @thestelster and his compound feed nut project - https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/lathe-compound-feed-nut.6838

Anyway, if anyone on the South Island needs anything from Grizzly and wants to share shipping, lemme know.
 

Dusty

(Bill)
Premium Member
@curmudgeon Having no idea what your cross slide leadscrew nut will cost via Grizzly, suggest you consider ordering each 2. Might save you a lot of unnecessary grief down the road. Good luck with this!

What is the meaning of South Island ???
 

curmudgeon

(Steve)
@curmudgeon Having no idea what your cross slide leadscrew nut will cost via Grizzly, suggest you consider ordering each 2. Might save you a lot of unnecessary grief down the road. Good luck with this!

What is the meaning of South Island ???

Hmmm, do these frequently break? Or, are they just vulnerable to gorillas that don't understand how they work? Replacement is $32.75 USD, plus $20 USD shipping, probably plus GST and PST when I self clear customs. Getting a pair would make sense if they're still vulnerable with careful use.

Sorry 'bout the "South Island" reference, in this case I'm referring to southern Vancouver Island, BC.
 

Dusty

(Bill)
Premium Member
Hmmm, do these frequently break? Or, are they just vulnerable to gorillas that don't understand how they work? Replacement is $32.75 USD, plus $20 USD shipping, probably plus GST and PST when I self clear customs. Getting a pair would make sense if they're still vulnerable with careful use.

Sorry 'bout the "South Island" reference, in this case I'm referring to southern Vancouver Island, BC.

Having no experience in replacing said nut I doubt they require replaceing often unless damaged like yours. You likely wont need to replace a second nut although havining one will ease your mind some. I would check out ordering two. Just saying!

Good luck with this.
 

PeterT

Ultra Member
Premium Member
I'm trying to figure this out. Maybe its the photo angle. This kind of looks like the slit for anti-backlash but they typically go past center of leadscrew diameter. Are there set screws on the right hand side of nut that push against the thin section (out of camera range)? Then there is the end of what looks like a conical pointed screw sticking up, but in a strange location. Is it intending to open up the slit somehow & thats how it adjusts?

1676789684867.png
 

jcdammeyer

John
Premium Member
Hmmm, do these frequently break? Or, are they just vulnerable to gorillas that don't understand how they work? Replacement is $32.75 USD, plus $20 USD shipping, probably plus GST and PST when I self clear customs. Getting a pair would make sense if they're still vulnerable with careful use.

Sorry 'bout the "South Island" reference, in this case I'm referring to southern Vancouver Island, BC.
Hi Steve,
Don't really need anything at the moment. Want is something different of course. There is a way to have things shipped to Bellingham for a really low cost, then flown to the YVR airport and you walk over to customs to clear it. Chris M. can explain the details. It's been a decade since I did that.
 

curmudgeon

(Steve)
Here's another pic that shows that the thin piece is bevelled.
1YRL8GQfJRoEdkqZNGnpt1CB0B3dNUhahkq05j8kDvNb8q-_MvgheA2zmLiae6kpSKpOXZ8s0x_S84FSRNdrWKrb6OpgBYSAlARHpeQSuoyzuyflvTldm-Hz46M_Tn2hDwtILWRfYI4D1H7QjidGy_3mGtJFlnk42eg2mwYG0LtjiiFQmCvYyAAmtDde6ng0QSq-K3idNX8uJGGgYM84XIsb2m0Su2M3GADdwT_GGoISN_H0l8_PJ7KGHVeF-eIZOUifZ8YyDZ5WgoHV_akg5tAQLXq2wu7KjfEIhKzJtBnhwCE00V8QvmA7zyVtVxuoMN5sbBUSs9w_s08AuIIxEOL4T9fGaZSkYpe52x5V6bJWK7jBQzfshiFChjV4qMr6re4__oEETwhkr31MAMY8rSAYlJrLVePcGvyhXoS57KFazP2LkkijXCfncxgP91LPahF3_UGMcf3fJavAGrZeZgHcw0mcTtifabzOXvtYDBC5KXundaIbMPwJCE_-kLkXJo4wXqUV5NDYSwygd-oGGtI1cHbBTNlWVAmN9iDnLnOGu2jkTjKqSo2DUcec6sdq42Y-NAuSa3SkGaK77lMaHgmPrmeezD3GLpDJTqeYwgU9NxR3_OIIAVwNYuaKcU_KOHgLhH5hxi7FM8FZVs3k2g4vgaEHFjGeqW6AMkDRIXznOogriPZ4uR3O8ev9dG8it0iJwLiXjerQdkf9MEawEmBwDbT7COdweSmdT1EBnEZbcy4ftmDE2aYK_diWb-YuV5CY2IZbx19L-iMeSWgyXzcVaUd88rFXeYT_tqN9eeUHm6t_A_R9SiofgYnIYjxPecqXAKyWxOAhxKbZLYd2v46ao1VJkK0_ZjfoVF0xgVglXj64tbRn3W5kUXHC_c2H7T8a3TYNanPH_oOVQ4_7x3zUFjfxBzjl553yTcZsKI6s=w811-h933-s-no


There's a cap screw that holds the nut to the cross slide. The pointed screw is a set screw that can push against the bevel, bending the thin slice towards the rest of the nut.

The manual describes the process as tightening the cap screw to pull the nut up, forcing the bevel against the pointed set screw. Doesn't sound right to me, I would have expected to ease the set screw off, tighten the cap screw, and then advance the set screw until backlash is acceptable. As it is now, that pointed set screw can be rotated by fingers alone.
 
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curmudgeon

(Steve)
There is a way to have things shipped to Bellingham for a really low cost, then flown to the YVR airport and you walk over to customs to clear it.
I often use Express Air to forward from Blaine to YYJ and self clear myself. Seawings has a similar service next door to Express Air.

In this case, it doesn't pay... Shipping to Blaine saves less than $5 USD on shipping, but ensures that I pay WA sales taxes. Then, add $18 CAD for Express Air's fees. So, I'm going to try to self clear with UPS.
 

jcdammeyer

John
Premium Member
I often use Express Air to forward from Blaine to YYJ and self clear myself. Seawings has a similar service next door to Express Air.

In this case, it doesn't pay... Shipping to Blaine saves less than $5 USD on shipping, but ensures that I pay WA sales taxes. Then, add $18 CAD for Express Air's fees. So, I'm going to try to self clear with UPS.
That was it. Seawings. Handy when some company has free or almost free shipping within USA.
 

PeterT

Ultra Member
Premium Member
Ah, I get it now. Thanks for clarifying. Maybe the screw was advanced too far & it cracked. I think these ABL slits are kind of a hack idea, but they seems common on many machines in some form or another, including mine. Maybe more meat on the thinner section + stress relief hole vs the sharp corner would help (red circle). My lathe has set screws (orange circles) but I can see why that might not be accessible in many instances. Mine are kind of PITA to access. When I redo my nut I'm going to try & make a floating ABL nut with a wave washer or similar spring force. That way its more axial & should hold tension longer before requiring adjustment.
 

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jcdammeyer

John
Premium Member
Ah, I get it now. Thanks for clarifying. Maybe the screw was advanced too far & it cracked. I think these ABL slits are kind of a hack idea, but they seems common on many machines in some form or another, including mine. Maybe more meat on the thinner section + stress relief hole vs the sharp corner would help (red circle). My lathe has set screws (orange circles) but I can see why that might not be accessible in many instances. Mine are kind of PITA to access. When I redo my nut I'm going to try & make a floating ABL nut with a wave washer or similar spring force. That way its more axial & should hold tension longer before requiring adjustment.
IMHO, flexing cast iron to take out backlash is a flake move. Fine if it was bronze.
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
I agree 100%. I was stunned just looking at it. I think that nut is ripe to be replaced with a better design.

I know that many are not setup to internal thread their own nut like that and I know it's a challenge even for those who are.

My first thought is to slice the nut clean through so it's a deliberate two part nut, drill, and install at least two screws like Peter showed and perhaps add a sliding guide pin or even a hinge pin.

In any event, that thin section is gunna break in cast iron but I'd wager it would break even in bronze - hence my thought to break it properly and design with that.
 

PeterT

Ultra Member
Premium Member
Yes if its cast iron, maybe just as well that it broke. I'm guessing it might be wearing the assembly at the expense of the leadscrew threads. So the question becomes, do you want another of the same? As in new replacement. Although I've heard different opinions about this. Some say although CI is generally harder, it makes an OK bushing material because of its pore structure & holds lubrication film. But I'm not sure if this extends to thread on thread at relatively higher thrust loads. Speaking of which, how is the nut lubricated? Maybe the rear hole? Bronze would be better. Sometimes the goldie bronze color can be deceptive if its cast surface or covered in wear sludge or painted at the same time which they are fond of doing. File on a harmless surface & that should tell you.
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Sometimes the goldie bronze color can be deceptive if its cast surface or covered in wear sludge or painted at the same time which they are fond of doing. File on a harmless surface & that should tell you.

I had wondered the same thing. Old bronze could easily look like cast iron. The break would be a good place to look.

It's broken. File it anywhere. Unless he plans to try and repair it, it's all harmless surface now.
 

PaulL

Technologist at Large
Premium Member
IMHO, flexing cast iron to take out backlash is a flake move. Fine if it was bronze.
My broze one from my BB CX 701 is similarly broken, though it has the set screws. It was so poorly made that one of the set screw holes intersects the outer face and barely even holds the set screw.
Making a new one is on my project list, largely impeded by an appropriate tap.
 

YotaBota

Mike
Premium Member
@curmudgeon - thanks for the offer, I don't see anything there I need or am willing to pay for.

What size tap do you need? I have 1/2-10LH and 3/8-10RH acme taps. All you need is a chunk of bronze and a to drill a hole.

I bought my taps from these guys a couple of yeas ago and my experience was good, they were very helpful and easy to deal with. If memory serves they also shipped USPS.

Could you reslit the the nut to make it useable until a replacement is ready?
 

PaulL

Technologist at Large
Premium Member
@curmudgeon - thanks for the offer, I don't see anything there I need or am willing to pay for.

What size tap do you need? I have 1/2-10LH and 3/8-10RH acme taps. All you need is a chunk of bronze and a to drill a hole.

I bought my taps from these guys a couple of yeas ago and my experience was good, they were very helpful and easy to deal with. If memory serves they also shipped USPS.

Could you reslit the the nut to make it useable until a replacement is ready?
I need to put a vernier on the screw. Manual says 10tpi, but neglects to mention the diameter.
But I'll almost certainly order a tap to keep ;-)
 

PeterT

Ultra Member
Premium Member
Now this is the real question on offshore machines. Is it a 29-deg ACME thread like a N-Am machine? Or is it a 30-deg trapezoidal thread, which I would imagine would be 99% of tooling in Asia. I would almost bet trapezoidal. I have a new cross feed leadscrew for my Taiwan 14x40 lathe, I will figure out a way to measure. If its trapezoidal, that settles it. I'm going to get a tool post threading tool. An ACME tap would be a slight mismatch anyways.
 
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Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Now this is the real question on offshore machines. Is it a 29-deg ACME thread like a N-Am machine? Or is it a 30-deg trapezoidal thread, which I would imagine would be 99% of tooling in Asia. I would almost bet trapezoidal. I have a new cross feed leadscrew for my Taiwan 14x40 lathe, I will figure out a way to measure. If its trapezoidal, that settles it. I'm going to get a threading tool. An ACME tap would be a slight mismatch anyways.

When you figure that out, I'd be interested in knowing it. I'd think it is extremely difficult to do. Please come back and post here.
 
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