calgaryguy
Chris
Rees Atchinson has a number of videos up showing a metal planer resurfacing lathe beds, etc. Who knows as to the quality of the finished product, but interesting to watch...
Yah know, in hindsight I have one more recommendation. You are in London. It is short drive to Detroit Metro area.
The Detroit area is home to a wealth of manufacturing and supporting industries.
Plason Scraping offers full machine rebuilds.
You could use such a service and not pay any duty on it potentially. Just register your lathe bed prior to leaving Canada, so when you come back they know you are not bringing in new equipment. This should be duty free process.
(248) 588-7280
Address: 32825 Dequindre, Madison Heights, MI
Email: [email protected]
The Cleveland - Toledo - Detroit - Flint - Lansing - Grand Rapids - Gary - Chicago corridor has always had about 1000 times the capacity and services of Windsor.
All my relatives are from the rust belt and almost all exclusively worked in auto and related industries and I've been to the area about 1 billion times and watched the slow decay and closures. But they still have some companies with amazing capabilities.
I have a second hand experience on this, sorta - kinda.I always wondered how durable acetal was in such an application.
so, what you are saying is that I should be making my engravers out of this special lubricating turquoise acetal... or t least the main barrel and piston...
I guess a spalted maple rather than walnut handle and replace my brass inserts with aluminium that has been anodized a tangerine orange
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Less facetiously, I have a a few etching press designs that have bearing surfaces which take-up bearings travel while raising and lowering my print roller. I think that when I scale up to larger presses I may try thing material out. Similarly I have many designs that use sintered bronze bushings I could substitute this as well.
I do too. But it would not look good with turquoise acetalPersonally, I love Walnut - especially burl or root. Very hard and drop dead gorgeous!
I do too. But it would not look good with turquoise acetal
There are many types of 'plastic' that are used as friction bearing/bushing/slide surfaces that have great attributes; low friction, self lubrication, impervious to corrosion & some chemicals. I've seen instances where nylon, UHMW has actually worn the steel surface it rubs against. But they have downsides too. Lower modulus, lower strength, heat distortion... generally not for high loads.
From my vast internet lurking of turcite (which by definition makes me a subject matter expert LOL) the material is bonded to the surface, then hand scraped in. So basically acts as thin friction/conformance layer sandwiched between the mating sliding surface. I believe it can be stripped & replaced without grinding native cast iron. But I think bed grinding is more about correcting fundamental geometry like bed is worn or distorted? I'm not sure to what degree turcite could make up the difference if scraped to a perfect datum assuming the underlying bed was 'out'. I've seen it on new machines (boned on a new grind) on reconditioned machines (bonded on a re-grind) but I wonder if there is middle ground (bonded on a worn surface within X amount)? Inquiring minds want to know.
Here's someone who had a Bridgeport table+ways milled by Rees Atchinson and his series on rebuilding his bridgeport.
Rees Atchinson has a number of videos up showing a metal planer resurfacing lathe beds, etc. Who knows as to the quality of the finished product, but interesting to watch...
Yes I'm sure its micro abrasion at work. The plastic is soft enough to embed particles & make a crude lapping tool. Actually I tried to make a split lap from nylon for home shop R&D. I guess it kind of worked from the grit holding standpoint. But failed for any degree of dimensional control particularly if it gets at all warm.Are you sure the nylon wore down the steel....or was it all the crap that can get stuck in the nylon?
Just wanted to update. Contacted about 10 places over the past few days. Not a single one returned my call or email. Thanks to everyone for the info.
I think that the big rebuilders who restore large machines at a cost of 30K a pop can't be bothered to even look at hobbyists, and the small shops are too busy to respond, and you'd need to hound them and show up at their door with a lathe bed and a pocketful of cash. Then you also need to catch them at a lull in biz.
We just learn on passion.
How long is your bed and how bad is it (pictures) there may be other easier solutions.Just wanted to update. Contacted about 10 places over the past few days. Not a single one returned my call or email. Thanks to everyone for the info.