Very Cool Rauce! I bet you are excited! That much closer to getting your dream machine running to your satisfaction!
Question - How do they skip over one V-way to get to the next without losing the setting? Or do they even care as long as it's close? I suppose I'm answering my own question - as long as it's even along the entire length it prolly doesn't matter if it's not exactly the same on each way.......
Can't wait to see the photos.
My understanding from just chatting with the guy for minute about the approach is this:
They set the machine up on the grinder and align it. He gauged the wear on the V’s the same way I did when I got it, by putting a precision V block on it and indicating off the block. When I did it i measure relative to seemingly unworn flat way, here it’s relative to the machine. Result was the same ~.006” low near the headstock.
The quality of the original hendey build seems to have saved them some time and effort with the initial set up. The two areas where the bed mounts to the cabinet were scraped from the factory on the same plane as the ways. They just landed it up on the grinder table and found they only had to align it in one axis, no need for shims. It’s also a short and stout enough bed that sag in the middle is a non-issue.
Next step was a rough grind a couple thou deep on the flat way. Let it settle for a bit and see if warped at all. Thinning the hardened surface can cause it to warp he says, I imagine like a piece of cold rolled steel will if you machine off a face. Seems like there’s a fair amount of time spent waiting between passes to let it settle/cool off.
They’ll tackle the most worn surface first eliminating the wear and take the same amount off all the surfaces. With the V’s this would be bringing the wheel clear, moving over, bringing it in until it touches off and then taking off the same amount.