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Tool Good Quality Files and where to purchase them?

Tool
Y'know, I figured this out in Grade 8 Shop Classes. Did a LOT of draw file work in Metal Shop classes!
More folks need to know about draw filing: gave me great results cleaning up the side of my Indexing Plates (still on sale, made in [& shipped from] Canada):

Indexing Plate Sides.jpeg

There is still the "shadow" of the laser cuts, but the sides are smooth to the touch and flat & square.


I didn't bother cleaning up the hot-rolled faces, just sanded off the worst of the mill scale – I think it's a nice look (I did spray them with T-9):

DGray Indexing Plates rfs.jpeg
 
Good files come from wherever you can find them, and Brand Name, does not, always, make a file good...
That's definitely true, however buying a "good quality" brand generally does increase the probability of getting a good quality product.

My response has reminded me of when I was thinking of buying an expensive Classical Guitar. There's a mystery surrounding what it is that actually makes a very good instrument. Sometimes cheap guitars can be fantastic and sometimes expensive guitars can be duds. I asked the luthier how he could guarantee the guitar would be one I liked and he give an honest answer that essentially was: "he didn't really know what it was that made his guitars great, but he only uses top quality materials that increase the chances his guitars will be what the customer has dreamed of". Not directly applicable to files though, since a fantastic type of file can repeatably be made fantastic.
 
That's definitely true, however buying a "good quality" brand generally does increase the probability of getting a good quality product.

My response has reminded me of when I was thinking of buying an expensive Classical Guitar. There's a mystery surrounding what it is that actually makes a very good instrument. Sometimes cheap guitars can be fantastic and sometimes expensive guitars can be duds. I asked the luthier how he could guarantee the guitar would be one I liked and he give an honest answer that essentially was: "he didn't really know what it was that made his guitars great, but he only uses top quality materials that increase the chances his guitars will be what the customer has dreamed of". Not directly applicable to files though, since a fantastic type of file can repeatably be made fantastic.
Problem, as I have experienced, is that the batch to batch consistency from even name brand files, is somewhere between disappointing, to dismal.

Nicholson files that were made in the US, out of actual high carbon steel, used to be pretty good in general. Then they started selling the same files, under the same name, but made in Brazil. Then they cheaped out and started making files out of lower carbon content steel, and case hardening them. Then they outsourced to China, at which point I might as well buy Chinese name branded files from the import resellers, and see if they work... At least THOSE are not selling you on the basis of a long established, but easily ruined, reputation. Nor are they priced as if you are getting the same quality as you used to get. Some of the cheap files even work really well, but they cost a fraction of what the Brand name does...

Short form, Brand is only as good as the product they provide. If the hang a top brand name on crap products, they diminish the brand, and it soon becomes apparent that they are not worth buying. 'Not', apparently, the lessons they teach business admin types in school any more...

I have had some Grobet files ($$!), that were disappointments. On the other hand, I have yet to find a crappy Dumont Tweezer (though you pretty much pay in blood and future offspring for them these days). The brand is only as good as it's latest round of offerings.
 
Draw filing is for looks, as it can throw your accuracy out. The English were really into fitting, millwrights are called fitters even, which involves filing and scraping. I'm ashamed to say some of my files are in such bad shape you can use them as mirrors.
 
Draw filing is for looks, as it can throw your accuracy out. The English were really into fitting, millwrights are called fitters even, which involves filing and scraping. I'm ashamed to say some of my files are in such bad shape you can use them as mirrors.
If the user has the skills, and works with care, one can quite easily file to thousandths accuracy. Draw filing is as accurate as the user is... It applies directly, as a means of deburring parts too! A gentle pass with a single cut file will knock the sharp edges off, in a very controllable manner. Provided that the user understands the basic principles.

A fella I met had his grandfathers 'apprentice' project, which was required to be done before one advanced to using powered tools in his Machinist apprenticeship, which was a rectangle of steel plate, roughly half inch thick, in which three holes were drilled with a 1/2 inch drill, the only powered tool that was allowed in the making. The plate was filed externally, square and parallel.

The three holes were then filed out to fit the 'plug', which was square from a side view, a triangle from the second angle, and round from the top view. The plug started out as an inch of round bar stock and inch in diameter.

Finished dimension of the round plug profile, was required to be 7/8 of an inch, and the holes had to allow a .0015" feeler gage to be freely inserted, but not a .0025 gage, in all holes, and in any orientation of the plug.

I used to demonstrate that it was not all that hard to file the center of the face of a bar, without touching the edges, by knowing your file (each is almost inevitably curved a wee bit concave on one side, and convex on the other) and knowing how to apply pressure with your fingers while holding it, flexing the face of the file as needed.

Files don't get enough respect, and most users don't take near the care storing and handling them, that they should get.
 
If the user has the skills, and works with care, one can quite easily file to thousandths accuracy. Draw filing is as accurate as the user is... It applies directly, as a means of deburring parts too! A gentle pass with a single cut file will knock the sharp edges off, in a very controllable manner. Provided that the user understands the basic principles.

A fella I met had his grandfathers 'apprentice' project, which was required to be done before one advanced to using powered tools in his Machinist apprenticeship, which was a rectangle of steel plate, roughly half inch thick, in which three holes were drilled with a 1/2 inch drill, the only powered tool that was allowed in the making. The plate was filed externally, square and parallel.

The three holes were then filed out to fit the 'plug', which was square from a side view, a triangle from the second angle, and round from the top view. The plug started out as an inch of round bar stock and inch in diameter.

Finished dimension of the round plug profile, was required to be 7/8 of an inch, and the holes had to allow a .0015" feeler gage to be freely inserted, but not a .0025 gage, in all holes, and in any orientation of the plug.

I used to demonstrate that it was not all that hard to file the center of the face of a bar, without touching the edges, by knowing your file (each is almost inevitably curved a wee bit concave on one side, and convex on the other) and knowing how to apply pressure with your fingers while holding it, flexing the face of the file as needed.

Files don't get enough respect, and most users don't take near the care storing and handling them, that they should get.
I recall stories that apprentices used to be (100 +/- years ago) given a roughly 3” cube-ish lump of steel and told to make a perfect cube (determined by the boss using his square & micrometers): most ended up with a ~1” cube, sometimes months later.
 
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