Force Lathe Barrhead AB $900

[YotaBota]

The motor may need to be internally rewired for the fwd/rev function.
Where is the fwd/rev switch located? I don't see it in the picture.
KMS bought out House of Tools, you could check with them and see if they have any old manuals on file.
A good cleanup and a bit of repair should net you a nice machine.
Congrats.

 

[Beez12]

The motor may need to be internally rewired for the fwd/rev function.
Where is the fwd/rev switch located? I don't see it in the picture.
KMS bought out House of Tools, you could check with them and see if they have any old manuals on file.
A good cleanup and a bit of repair should net you a nice machine.
Congrats.

When tested under power at the sellers house, forward and neutral worked fine. But when engaged in reverse a humming noise came from the motor. He said it would eventually trip out the breaker.

So I’m assuming to get at the lower threading gear box I’ll have to remove the entire head stock gear train?

 

[Beez12]

Pictures below.

 

[YYCHM]

When tested under power at the sellers house, forward and neutral worked fine. But when engaged in reverse a humming noise came from the motor. He said it would eventually trip out the breaker.

Take the belts off the motor and see if it runs in reverse. The hum and breaker trip may be due to it being stalled.

 

[PeterT]

If its like my Taiwan 14x40, the red shifter knob is rotating the rod which selects/deselects sets of contact switches. The cams can get out of adjustment which means they might be pushing the contacts partially or incorrectly. Looks like yours might be behind the lower cover plate? If its mechanically running forward OK, one would think there is no adverse friction in running in reverse. But if the switches are partially on due to cam misalignment that might be messing things up electrically. But it might be different than mine if its somehow doing mechanical shifting?

I think those are pretty generic machines. If you need to hunt for a manual, Grizzly might be a go-to place because they brought in similar models if I'm not mistaken. The trick is to figure out what they called it.

 

[YotaBota]

I believe the QCGB should come off as a separate unit. There's a bolt above and below where the lead screw exits the box that go into the bed, these could be front mounting bolts. There should be a couple more bolts attaching the box to the bed behind the large gears on the back of the box. That's my guess.
As for manuals, Jet also made a similar 12x36 machine, the manual for it may be out there as well.

 

[RobinHood]

Possibly something got wired wrong when the motor was swapped out.

This thread has some wiring diagrams for FWD/REV on a single phase motor.
https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=474053

With the power disconnected, trace the wires.

You may find what @PeterT mentions by following the circuits.

 

[Beez12]

Thanks gents, I hope one day I can hold just a fraction of your knowledge lol. Only 3 months into it and I really do have a new found respect for millwrights.

 

[historicalarms]

Yup that orange ball lever is the reversing lever. That switiching module PeterT shows is the only break down i have had on my lathe...had to steal on from the showroom floor model back at the store...the only one in North America that the repair manager at House of tools could find at the time. That switch is low voltage & plastic & has 3 or 4 layers to it with a bunch of internal switching combinations to manipulate the motor direction.

As for the manual for it...not much of any use in it other than maybe a very rudimentary parts drawing....you need an " Oriental jibberish translator" to understand anything written. I think I could still find mine & it should be like new for lack of use.
I have been inside the headstock gearbox to re-align the shift forks and have had the carriage completely apart once and it is basically a "start at the front and continue in until you get to where you want to" and lay every part out in order of removal to facilitate re-build.

Edited to add; that lathe can be run 110 or 220. The proper wiring routes should be listed on the wiring box door. I run my lathe on 110 for a #of years in a small garage that was only wired for 110 but had it re-wired for 22 when it arrived in the shop it's in now. about the only difference i noticed was it blew the 110 breaker once in a while when trying to start headstock at a high RPM.

 

[YotaBota]

How are you doing with the wiring and lead screw issues?

 

[YYCHM]

Where is this project at? Making chips yet?

 

[Beez12]

I wish Craig, been out of the country offshore working and it’s remained sitting in the middle of my garage floor lol. Hopefully I can’t start cracking away at it now.