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First send cut send trial project - welding coupon bend test rig

DavidR8

DavidR8

Scrap maker
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Looks great.
What the the final cost Dan?
I'd be curious to get a quote from the place here on the Island for comparison.
 
D

Dan Dubeau

Ultra Member
DavidR8 said:
Looks great.
What the the final cost Dan?
I'd be curious to get a quote from the place here on the Island for comparison.
Click to expand...
Total cost to my Credit card was $203.04cdn. Invoice cost was $143.47 USD. I'd be curious too.

Honestly would love to find a local source for this quality, and convenience of parts. Even if it was slightly more, I'd rather keep the money local. My experience from the other side of quoting and dealing with stuff like this as a one off interaction, $200 is cheap. But that's for machining, I don't know the laser, or sheet goods biz at all. Not even a little bit.

Most of the stuff I build, the design is driven 100% by available material on hand. As a habitual scrap hoarder that is the "stock" market I invest in the most. It's nice once in a while to do a clean slate design like this though and not spend time going through the scrap pile, and doing the justification dance trying to decide if "this" project is worth using up good scrap for, or to keep digging for that perfect piece. All the while rolling potential designs around in Neuro CAD to see if it'll work with this piece or that...
 
DavidR8

DavidR8

Scrap maker
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Dan Dubeau said:
Total cost to my Credit card was $203.04cdn. Invoice cost was $143.47 USD. I'd be curious too.

Honestly would love to find a local source for this quality, and convenience of parts. Even if it was slightly more, I'd rather keep the money local. My experience from the other side of quoting and dealing with stuff like this as a one off interaction, $200 is cheap. But that's for machining, I don't know the laser, or sheet goods biz at all. Not even a little bit.

Most of the stuff I build, the design is driven 100% by available material on hand. As a habitual scrap hoarder that is the "stock" market I invest in the most. It's nice once in a while to do a clean slate design like this though and not spend time going through the scrap pile, and doing the justification dance trying to decide if "this" project is worth using up good scrap for, or to keep digging for that perfect piece. All the while rolling potential designs around in Neuro CAD to see if it'll work with this piece or that...
Click to expand...
Can you PM the the specs of your order and your post code for shipping estimate from them?
 
combustable herbage

combustable herbage

Ultra Member
Premium Member
Dan Dubeau said:
not spend time going through the scrap pile, and doing the justification dance trying to decide if "this" project is worth using up good scrap for, or to keep digging for that perfect piece.
Click to expand...
Glad to see that that is perfectly normal human practice.
Can you imagine using a good piece of scrap for something without doing that and then a week later you found the perfect project for it heads would be exploding.
Great experiment good knowledge gained from it!
 
W

wmetfab

Well-Known Member
Hello Dan,
Check out the welding procedure sheets i previously posted.
Phaxtris has good tips.
With the stop start, strike the arc about 1/4 " away and move into the stop fully melt the toe before continuing
When u stop dont leave a lump, nice crisp stop, move the rod backwards as the arc is terminated
Super clean between the passes, stop start.
I liked to use a knotted wire wheel on a grinder for the purpose.
For bending, we cut the plates down t on the bandsaw, tack welded them to a piece of rectangular tube and held that in the vise tightly.
We milled off most of the backing plate first then carefully ground off the rest flush without removing too much before cutting
Good luck. U will get there
 
D

Dan Dubeau

Ultra Member
wmetfab said:
Hello Dan,
Check out the welding procedure sheets i previously posted.
Phaxtris has good tips.
With the stop start, strike the arc about 1/4 " away and move into the stop fully melt the toe before continuing
When u stop dont leave a lump, nice crisp stop, move the rod backwards as the arc is terminated
Super clean between the passes, stop start.
I liked to use a knotted wire wheel on a grinder for the purpose.
For bending, we cut the plates down t on the bandsaw, tack welded them to a piece of rectangular tube and held that in the vise tightly.
We milled off most of the backing plate first then carefully ground off the rest flush without removing too much before cutting
Good luck. U will get there
Click to expand...
Thank you, Great tips.

For stops, you're saying I should snap back out of the puddle? Then strike ahead and fall back into where I snapped out of. That's pretty much the way I've been doing it, but I need to get a lot more consistent and controlled with it. I really like the inline knotted wheels for cleaning up. Typically only use one for when I'm doing a lot of welding, but for this I will 100%. Good tip on tacking the plate to a tube to saw off the stock. Thanks.
 
jcdammeyer

jcdammeyer

John
Premium Member
Here's a place a bit closer to Victoria that also does a lot of this sort of stuff.

lasercamfab.com

LaserCAM Fabrication: Your Partner for Best-in-Class Metal Fabrication

Elevate your projects with top-tier metal fabrication in Canada. Based in Victoria, Vancouver Island, we are full-service fabricators employing cutting-edge machinery and software. Specializing in advanced sheet metal fabrication and diverse enclosures, from electrical to security, we bring...
lasercamfab.com lasercamfab.com

1714514091993.png
 
Stuart Samuel

Stuart Samuel

Well-Known Member
Premium Member
Dan Dubeau said:
Thank you, Great tips.

For stops, you're saying I should snap back out of the puddle? Then strike ahead and fall back into where I snapped out of. That's pretty much the way I've been doing it, but I need to get a lot more consistent and controlled with it. I really like the inline knotted wheels for cleaning up. Typically only use one for when I'm doing a lot of welding, but for this I will 100%. Good tip on tacking the plate to a tube to saw off the stock. Thanks.
Click to expand...
I do remember noticing that if my plate was really, really hot, and I wasn’t 100% sure of a stop, I could, uh, edit it a little with a knotted wire wheel.
 
Stuart Samuel

Stuart Samuel

Well-Known Member
Premium Member
phaxtris said:
I don't believe the flat to be the hardest, but it is the most commonly failed, its easy to trap slag. The flat you need to plan your passes so your not leaving any tight grooves, and i would not go above 125, slightly cooler with slower travel speed does a better job of burning slag out than roasting it in on incinerate travelling 100mph/

i skimmed that series your referring to from weld.com about the cwb plates, overall pretty good, i like that they show a fail, anyone can fail, but some things;

there is a time limit, 45min per plate, the suggestion of stopping every few rods to let the plate cool is not a great plan, the plates take a while to weld out, and when its your first time you could easily run out of time if you did that...if you need a couple minutes break that's fine, but i wouldn't be doing it every few rods, if its getting to hot for you to control (doubtful) turn the machine down

you can use a punch to mark your stop/start on the backing strip, its easy to see, and it welds out, you dont want to cruise way past your stop/start, you will be starting a new plate if that happens

aside from the flat, once the plate is in position, it cannot be moved, not to chip/wire wheel, not because your uncomfortable, once you start, that's where it stays, if the inspector notices it in a different position than when he first came in the booth you will probably be failed....so figure out what the best position for you is

the cap is probably more difficult than the root, after a couple fill passes you really need to start planning and sizing your fill's to end up where you want to be, you dont want to overshoot that 1/8 fill and have to weld up another plate

i dont think ive ever seen a booth without 2 arms, one for the plate, one to rest yourself on, that being said there are no guarantee's. its wise to have a bessy, pair of c-clamp vise grips, what ever, something to rest your arm on, 20-40 min of welding overhead without some kind of rest and you will be shaking like a leaf when it comes time to cap

try not to lean against the booth.....its all well and great until the kid beside you screws up, freaks out and punches/kicks/throws his plate against the wall your leaning on.... when your capping of course

on test day, new lenses, new gloves, wear leathers, new rod, every time, do not restart a rod, its not worth the risk, give yourself every advantage. Every welder i know does this on any kind of test day, no one is going to think its weird.
Click to expand...
I had the most trouble learning vertical, honestly. Just couldn’t figure out what I was doing wrong. One of the other students was a really phenomenal welder who’d worked in the shipyards inland from Shanghai. He let me watch him weld, I had sort of an epiphany. After that, overhead was totally manageable.
 
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