ER40 collet chuck

[Brian H]

Hey @Brian H, I confess I have some trouble accepting the situation you find yourself in.

I went back and reviewed the whole thread.

In post 13 you provided a photo of your gear chart. I have marked it up.

View attachment 48187

According to this chart, it clearly shows that the bottom gear is reversed for a 1.5 pitch metric thread and also elsewhere in those photos IT LOOKS LIKE that gear either has a bushing under it or has an attached bushing.

The bottom gear is gear G. Can you please remove it and see if it is reversable? Maybe take some photos of the gear? It might explain everything.

Try to think about this whole matter as if someone (either before or after the sale) broke something or lost something and repaired it by substituting stuff that doesn't belong.

Certainly, that chart suggests that your bottom gear G should be reversible.

I'm not sure if the picture in post #129 helps, but you can see the top, center and bottom gear. The large center gear is the one with the hub/spacer that requires rotatating. The upper and lower gears won't change place weather they are rotated or not

 

[Susquatch]

I'm not sure if the picture in post #129 helps, but you can see the top, center and bottom gear. The large center gear is the one with the hub/spacer that requires rotatating. The upper and lower gears won't change place weather they are rotated or not

What I'm trying to get at, is that the bottom gear SHOULD BE ABLE TO BE FLIPPED. I'm not saying that it will as is. But it should if it were the correct set of parts.

That gear is shown as reversable in the gearing chart.

Furthermore, if it were reversable as shown in the chart, it would do EXACTLY the same thing as reversing the big 127 gear.

It makes no sense to me to have to press that bearing in and out everytime you want to switch between metric and imperial. Nor does it make sense to get two of them. But it makes perfect sense to flip the bottom gear. In fact, it's what your diagram and the manual says you should do!

My guess is that somebody put the wrong part there or the bushing got lost.

Feel free to send me a PM so we can talk on the phone. The written word might be letting us down.

 

[Ironman]

That's my understanding as well, you need to leave the halfnuts engaged and use motor forward/reverse to move the carriage.

A perfect application for Mr Woopee's gizmo.

 

[Susquatch]

Look what else I found looking at your photos @Brian H ......



Edit - That bottom gear does not belong there! It's a metric gear! That's not the normal way of doing things! The other two are labelled by the number of teeth. That's the correct way of doing it. This is more evidence that a previous owner created a Frankenstein lathe......

Can you do an inventory of the gears you have for your King 12-36 and include the ones that are mounted on it?

It should conform with the list of gears on the chart and on the parts list.

Edit - The list might tell us why the previous owner did this. I'd like to assume it wasn't stupidity but never say never.......

It will also tell us what you need to make or buy so that you have a properly functioning lathe.

BTW - that bottom gear should have a washer and screw on it just like the top one.

 

[Ironman]

Interesting website on threads and threading as well as other stuff

Messy Basement Index for Conrad's Side

Conrad Hoffman's index page

www.conradhoffman.com

 

[RobinHood]

That bottom gear does not belong there! It's a metric gear!

I bet the others (45T and compound gear 86T/91T) are all M1.5 as well. It matters not what Module or DP the gears are; only that meshing gears are the same. On my SM1340 Metric, the gear train required DP16s & DP24s in the gear train to cut Imperial threads.

It does have 60T (indicated by “Z60”) which is one of the gear combos for threading according to the chart.

 

[Susquatch]

I bet the others (45T and compound gear 86T/91T) are all M1.5 as well. It matters not what Module or DP the gears are; only that meshing gears are the same. On my SM1340 Metric, the gear train required DP16s & DP24s in the gear train to cut Imperial threads.

It does have 60T (indicated by “Z60”) which is one of the gear combos for threading according to the chart.

Ah yes, I couldnt see the Z60 in that photo that well. Good catch. Nor did I think the first part was the tooth profile. So ya, @Brian H ,please ignore that last post. The one before that still stands though. And so does the missing washer and screw. The gear chart clearly shows that gear as reversable.

 

[RobinHood]

The one before that still stands though. And so does the missing washer and screw. The gear chart clearly shows that gear as reversable.

100% agree with that assessment @Susquatch .

 

[Brian H]

Look what else I found looking at your photos @Brian H ......

View attachment 48314

That bottom gear does not belong there! It's a metric gear! That's not the normal way of doing things! The other two are labelled by the number of teeth. That's the correct way of doing it. This is more evidence that a previous owner created a Frankenstein lathe......

Can you do an inventory of the gears you have for your King 12-36 and include the ones that are mounted on it?

It should conform with the list of gears on the chart and on the parts list.

The list might tell us why the previous owner did this. I'd like to assume it wasn't stupidity but never say never.......

It will also tell us what you need to make or buy so that you have a properly functioning lathe.

BTW - that bottom gear should have a washer and screw on it just like the top one.

Just for clarification, this wasn't a used lathe, I purchased it brand new from King Dec. 2023. Yes, there are a couple of things that don't make sense with the instruction manual and whats actually on the lathe. I have a really long email chain with a rep from King. Unfortunately my dealer hasn't been able to help much with this

 

[Susquatch]

Just for clarification, this wasn't a used lathe, I purchased it brand new from King Dec. 2023. Yes, there are a couple of things that don't make sense with the instruction manual and whats actually on the lathe. I have a really long email chain with a rep from King. Unfortunately my dealer hasn't been able to help much with this

I should edit that post. The gear isn't metric. The letters on it is the tooth profile not a metric designation.

Nonetheless, that bottom gear should be reversable.

If I were you I'd be right totally pissed off with King. I'd prolly want my money back. In fact, I'd prolly already be in small claims court with them by now.

At any rate, it is my strong opinion that the bottom gear should be reversable. It makes no sense to me to be otherwise. I just wish I was closer.

The chart on your lathe says it is reversable.

It is reversable on all similar lathes.

The manual I downloaded says it is.

It looks like it is in your photos.

If it is, it would explain your pressed in bearing.

If it is, you wouldn't need to flip the center gear or its bearing.

There are simply too many reasons why it should be reversable!

 

[Susquatch]

Yes, there are a couple of things that don't make sense with the instruction manual and whats actually on the lathe.

Just thinking, that chart isn't as clear as the one on my lathe. Maybe you are not reading the lathe chart right. I coloured it a bit and marked it up as follows.



I coloured the bigger outside center gear Blue and the small inside center gear Yellow. I circled the bottom gear and coloured it red. Note that in the top graphic the bottom gear rides on the yellow gear, and in the bottom graphic, it rides on the outside blue gear.

To do this, the bottom red gear is simply flipped.

 

[Brian H]

Just thinking, that chart isn't as clear as the one on my lathe. Maybe you are not reading the lathe chart right. I coloured it a bit and marked it up as follows.

View attachment 48418

I coloured the bigger outside center gear Blue and the small inside center gear Yellow. I circled the bottom gear and coloured it red. Note that in the top graphic the bottom gear rides on the yellow gear, and in the bottom graphic, it rides on the outside blue gear.

To do this, the bottom red gear is simply flipped.

That make 100% sense to me, and how it probably should be, but alas, it is not. I think I have decided I will just modify the center gear with a fixed hub and separate spacer so it can be VERY easily rotated to either configuration.

Thanks so much for all the time everyone has spent walking me through this learning process. I'm sure I will encounter more "speed bumps" along the journey and will likely have to beg for help again. Wish I could buy everyone a well earned "beverage"

 

[140mower]

likely have to beg for help again.

Hopefully you don't feel like you are begging for help, 'cause there's a whole world of knowledge here just waiting their turn to answer the bell. Without questions we would have no need for answers, and then this forum loses all of its meaning, in return we would have to spend more time talking to our spouses......... Do you see how one little question can improve the lives of so many?