23 Ohms is probably fine as long as it's not flashing to open.Video link.
My tests were as shown in the vid at the cable ends. IIRC I did continuity tests on each conductor in the cable.
I had guessed that I had a 20k potentiometer from the 19.5k readings I was seeing. What you're saying seems to be is that the wobbly 23 ohm reading I'm seeing is not good.
Ah, I should have paid more attention to good old Dad (an electronics engineer, but definitely not a teacher). I can't find the scary vids (yet) but I came across this one which seems like a good next step.23 Ohms is probably fine as long as it's not flashing to open.
23/20000=0.001, so that's close enough to zero.
So if the microswitch and pot, pass the cable wiggle test, the problem is elsewhere.
Can you post the other other troubleshooting videos?
I would really love someone to start making cheap and identical copies of the Miller wireless pedal, because the second hand one I have has been flawless.in my experience, almost all foot pedal issues relate to the cable and/or connection, the pedal gets kicked around a lot and often where the cable goes into the foot pedal there is a broken or disconnected wire
have you tried to run the tig in lift arc without the pedal
the value of the pot inside the foot pedal doesnt make much difference, its used as a voltage divider in the inverter machines, you can sub a 10k, 20k, 30k pot in there and it will still function, there is normally also a microswitch inside the pedal that some times fails, but again its almost always the cable
when i did time in a tig shop at least 1 pedal every month had problems (about 20 machines), 99% of the time it was cable related
Not sure that's a good idea, I'm guessing those bolts need to make contact with those traces, looks like they are the current path to the contacts.It looks like the heads of the two screws are touching the edge of two traces on the circuit board. Once the board is cleaned putting insulating washers under them might help.