Yes it came with the golf ball handles. I only use one of them.
[mention]Marc Moreau [/mention] is correct, it’s a shop vac hose.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.
DRO install on a LC-30A mill (RF-30 clone)
- Thread starter DavidR8
- Start date
Yes it came with the golf ball handles. I only use one of them.
[mention]Marc Moreau [/mention] is correct, it’s a shop vac hose.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just some points I discovered along the way installing my DRO.
A simple & useful feature to include on DRO mounting plates is for example 4 tapped holes on each corner of the plate. You install a set screw or cap screw into each hole & this allows you to micro-tweak the in/out/planar alignment, which in turn brings can bring the mounted encoder head into alignment once you have the indicator set up & just tightening things up. This pays off especially if you have irregular casting surface. Some guys grind the paint off the machine so its metal to metal but you can make that decision for yourself. Maybe a drop of blue Loctite on the threads so they stay put under vibration but are re-settable if in the future necessary.
Another aspect is to ensure you have it running with no bow or flex to the scale. Sometimes its possible to have 'alignment' but with some small amount of tension on the encoder/scale. Most DRO systems don't like that much especially on shorter scale lengths & can show up as problems over time.
A simple & useful feature to include on DRO mounting plates is for example 4 tapped holes on each corner of the plate. You install a set screw or cap screw into each hole & this allows you to micro-tweak the in/out/planar alignment, which in turn brings can bring the mounted encoder head into alignment once you have the indicator set up & just tightening things up. This pays off especially if you have irregular casting surface. Some guys grind the paint off the machine so its metal to metal but you can make that decision for yourself. Maybe a drop of blue Loctite on the threads so they stay put under vibration but are re-settable if in the future necessary.
Another aspect is to ensure you have it running with no bow or flex to the scale. Sometimes its possible to have 'alignment' but with some small amount of tension on the encoder/scale. Most DRO systems don't like that much especially on shorter scale lengths & can show up as problems over time.
Took some time today and got the Z-axis scale installed.
(Edited to correct my brain stall when I said Y-axis originally.)
Drilled and tapped the spindle yoke and made a mounting block.
Discovered that when I put the reader head and end cap back on the scale hit the casting on the inside when the spindle was fully retracted.
I thought about taking the cover off and grinding back the casting but decided to add another block.
Made some brackets to hold the reader head. Used one of the holes for the sheet metal cover to attach it to the casting.
All that’s left is to tidy up the cables.
I’m really pleased at how it came together.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
(Edited to correct my brain stall when I said Y-axis originally.)
Drilled and tapped the spindle yoke and made a mounting block.
Discovered that when I put the reader head and end cap back on the scale hit the casting on the inside when the spindle was fully retracted.
I thought about taking the cover off and grinding back the casting but decided to add another block.
Made some brackets to hold the reader head. Used one of the holes for the sheet metal cover to attach it to the casting.
All that’s left is to tidy up the cables.
I’m really pleased at how it came together.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Yup. The spindle up and down.
Does your DRO think up/down is the Y-axis? Mine figures up/down is the Z-axis.
Doh!
My mistake. Yes the Z axis.
(I corrected my post to save further embarrassment!)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Make sure all of your scale readers are attached with two screws and Loctite them. I attached my "Z-AXIS" reader with one screw due to a lack of bracket material and recently it has been flickering readings +-0.001". I'm fabricating a bracket and fixing that as we speak.
Here you go, nothing to write home about.
I added that bracket. The reader was originally mounted with the top screw only. Even with the bracket I register 0.0002" by pinching the scale and reader together. Flex in the scale as far as I can tell. Try that on your setup if you can.
Craig
Oh I hear you on that. Just setting the axis locks causes that last digit to bounce around. The z-axis is the worst. If I had the choice I'd turn off displaying the last digit but my DRO doesn't support that option.
Craig
Ha, the more I study your y-axis scale install the more differences I spot between our machinesI think I'm going to have to take a different approach.
View attachment 10449
Definitely not as much thickness on your Y axis table.
I can measure mine if you want.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That and your base/column are different. Where are your column mounting bolts? Are the recessed? You have 4 x-axis screw cap mounting bolts, I only have two. Look at the steps in my base compared to yours.
I don't have a cover like that. I have a series of interlocking sheet metal plates that cover the opening. They move with the table.