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Tips/Techniques DRO Glass vs. Magnetic Scale Accuracy Etc.

Tips/Techniques
great thread on DRO's ,lots of informative info.
As I was out in my garage shop this morning making smaller stuff out of bigger stuff all this measurement info swirling through me brain ,I found myself as usual falling back on the old German standard of "kloseanuf" defined as being any form of measurement perceived by the craftsman with some accuracy to produce, manufacture or duplicate said part, item or stuff, Very common amongst a lot of us hobbyist machinists and cellar dwellers. As I took my last pass on the lathe, job done , checked with mics ....as usual "kloseanuf"
 
I'm not usually a hypocrite ,but as I posted that I was thinking of my wifes in process kitchen remodel, kloseanuf measurements
will not be tolerated ,Deadon is what I need when it comes to my $$$
 
Magnetic on the mill is attractive for two reasons:
1) Painless install. Putting the DRO on my Clausing was a colossal pain in the @$$ because the cast iron was so hard. I'm under no illusions that import cast iron is the same quality as 1945 cast iron but I still dislike working with it.
2) Low profile. The X scale will go on the front of the table to preserve Y travel so the low profile of the mag scale is attractive.

That said I'm experienced putting glass scales on so maybe that's the easy path.

I am installing glass scales on the mill as well and it is also 1945 vintage and I also picked the front to preserve Y travel (which on this mill is minimal, like 11" or so, maybe even less).

Yes, glass scales are not low profile but I honestly do not see them as a future hinderance - they are just under the level of the table and I usually do not run into the table or the mill from the front. Even if I did there are other things I would hit before the scales and I can always add some kind of a shield to defend against accidents.

Also my glass scales are about 1/2 in away from the table to allow power feed auto disengagement. So total petrusion is around 1 1/2 in.
 
well not really the thread for it but because the DRO stuff was so interesting and knowledgeable I'm sure someone can tell me why my English SM does 13 inch 2000 series lathe have a .125 cross feed dial on it when the cross feed screw is 5/8-8 acme is...there some kind of weird metric voodoo going on or maybe at 71 the brain fog has finally arrived
 
well not really the thread for it but because the DRO stuff was so interesting and knowledgeable I'm sure someone can tell me why my English SM does 13 inch 2000 series lathe have a .125 cross feed dial on it when the cross feed screw is 5/8-8 acme is...there some kind of weird metric voodoo going on or maybe at 71 the brain fog has finally arrived
Calling @Brent H and @YotaBota
 
well not really the thread for it but because the DRO stuff was so interesting and knowledgeable I'm sure someone can tell me why my English SM does 13 inch 2000 series lathe have a .125 cross feed dial on it when the cross feed screw is 5/8-8 acme is...there some kind of weird metric voodoo going on or maybe at 71 the brain fog has finally arrived

125 is 1/8 and thus 8 turns would get you 1" and the thread is -8 so... 8 turns gives you also 1"?

Actually just realized you can get the thread pitch of the screw from the amount of advance of single turn of the dial.
 
125 is 1/8 and thus 8 turns would get you 1" and the thread is -8 so... 8 turns gives you also 1"?

Actually just realized you can get the thread pitch of the screw from the amount of advance of single turn of the dial.
growing up on a .100 dial ,I've now a few times gone around to zero (thinking its a hundred) and engaged the feed which turns into a big UTOH !!! not quite kloseanuf
 
<holding off/>

I've been around and around with Yuriy. He is totally convinced that magnetic is inferior to glass when it comes to absolute accuracy. His methods may not be perfect but they sure are compelling.

However, as @Dabbler says, they go against the grain and therefore are worthy of scrutiny. I'm not saying that Yuriy is wrong or right. Just that scrutiny and objectivity is required. At the end of the day, we all want the same thing - an advance in our knowledge of the subject. Advancements almost always come from different ways of looking at things. Challenges, reviews, and healthy debate are a part of that process.

Wife was gone to play pickleball the other day, so I headed out to the shop to do some testing of my own that I should have done ages ago. My bad........

In general, my results do not reflect what Yuriy found. I've sent him a copy of my results to see what he says. He has not yet replied. (He might be tired of me..... LOL... and I wouldn't blame him). So I don't have any advice for @David_R8 yet.

In the meantime, here is the new video that Yuriy said he was going to post.


It's a lathe calibration, but he talks about the cyclistic errors that are the subject of this thread and he discusses ways to deal with them. (On a side note, I will say that I think his videos are awesome! Coming from me, that's a heck of a compliment!)

But I am not yet convinced.....

Consistent with the comments provided by @Rauce & @Dabbler, the testing I did covered a number of approaches. Some of which have advantages and disadvantages. I'm not promoting any one approach, just presenting them for what they are worth.......

I began my testing using a 0.002 metric indicator (2 micron or about 1 tenth of a thou) and had my Ditron DRO set to 4 significant digits. Each measurement was consistent. I noticed no random character to the measurements - certainly not cyclic within the range of my indicator. However, I did notice a very slight slow creep upward in the DRO Readout as the distance increased. I need to evaluate this more in the future. Its been a while since I trammed my mill so it might be a simple tram cosine error. Lastly, I suppose it might also be slightly lower rigidity in my otherwise awesome FISSO indicator holder than in my spindle.

My sensor and engineering background have both engrained in me a very good grasp of the concept that everything moves - it isn't if - it's only how much. Doesn't matter how big it is. It will deform under load. I think this played a bit of a role in the results to follow.

After this, I mounted a digital edge finder (that is fairly consistent to a tenth of an inch) and compared various random measurements of Grade B gauge blocks from 1/2 inch to 4 inches. Again, no cyclicity to the measurements - just a very very slight slowly growing error with overall distance. However, the error was less than the growing error in the prior test which suggests a combination of tramming, scaling, and rigidity for the prior tests. In all cases, the readings were within the specified tolerance of the gauge blocks. So they might even be right.

I also mounted a Mahr Millimess 1 micron indicator in my Fisso holder and got:

10 vs 10 microns on the DRO
15 vs 15
31 vs 30
46 vs 45
61 vs 60

Again a tiny bit of creep if you can even call one micron creep. The usable range of the indicator is only +/- 30 microns.

Lastly, I mounted an inexpensive 2 inch length 1/2 thou dial indicator and got:

10. 9.9 on DRO
20. 19.9
30 29.8
40. 39.8
50. 49.9
60. 59.8
70. 69.8
80. 80.0
90. 90.1
100. 100. 0
125. 124.7
150. 149.8
175. 175.1
200. 199.8
250. 250.2
300. 300.3
350. 350.2
400. 400.2
500. 499.8
600. 599.7
700. 699.9
800. 799.9
900. 899.8
1000. 999.7. 999.8. 999.6. 999.6
1500. 1499.9. 1499.8. 1499.9. 1499.7
2000. 1999.9. 1999.8. 1999.7. 1999.8

At the end, as you can see, I decided to do some repeat comparisons. I did this because I thought my cheap indicator might be sticking. It is also only a 1/2 thou indicator. Although one can discern better resolution than that, it's still outside the usable range of the indicator and can't be trusted (not that it's all that trustworthy anyway....). The numbers sort of validate that but it might also be holder flex in my Noga Indicator Holder. Who knows for sure. I am planning to do some holder comparisons in the near future so something might come up then.

All in all, my testing did show a few interesting anomalies that arise from the methods and equipment used. But the good news (or bad) is that I don't seem to have the cyclicity errors that Yuriy experienced.

One of the things I didn't do in the testing I did was to deliberately test the scales at the magnetic boundaries. I plan to do that sometime in the next few days (perhaps even today). But I'll have to think a while on exactly how to do that. How do I know where the boundaries are! Or do I just do a full curve using two indicators simultaneously - one to track location and one for precision..... LOL!

I've told Yuriy that I would be happy to do any further testing he might want me to do. But I don't have good video skills, I have no data access to my DRO or my measurement equipment, I am also old, blind in one eye from a stroke, and I shake like a leaf, so it won't be fancy!

Bit the bullet and ordered mag scales. Come what may!

May the force be with you David......
 
I've been around and around with Yuriy. He is totally convinced that magnetic is inferior to glass when it comes to absolute accuracy. His methods may not be perfect but they sure are compelling.

However, as @Dabbler says, they go against the grain and therefore are worthy of scrutiny. I'm not saying that Yuriy is wrong or right. Just that scrutiny and objectivity is required. At the end of the day, we all want the same thing - an advance in our knowledge of the subject. Advancements almost always come from different ways of looking at things. Challenges, reviews, and healthy debate are a part of that process.

Wife was gone to play pickleball the other day, so I headed out to the shop to do some testing of my own that I should have done ages ago. My bad........

In general, my results do not reflect what Yuriy found. I've sent him a copy of my results to see what he says. He has not yet replied. (He might be tired of me..... LOL... and I wouldn't blame him). So I don't have any advice for @David_R8 yet.

In the meantime, here is the new video that Yuriy said he was going to post.


It's a lathe calibration, but he talks about the cyclistic errors that are the subject of this thread and he discusses ways to deal with them. (On a side note, I will say that I think his videos are awesome! Coming from me, that's a heck of a compliment!)

But I am not yet convinced.....

Consistent with the comments provided by @Rauce & @Dabbler, the testing I did covered a number of approaches. Some of which have advantages and disadvantages. I'm not promoting any one approach, just presenting them for what they are worth.......

I began my testing using a 0.002 metric indicator (2 micron or about 1 tenth of a thou) and had my Ditron DRO set to 4 significant digits. Each measurement was consistent. I noticed no random character to the measurements - certainly not cyclic within the range of my indicator. However, I did notice a very slight slow creep upward in the DRO Readout as the distance increased. I need to evaluate this more in the future. Its been a while since I trammed my mill so it might be a simple tram cosine error. Lastly, I suppose it might also be slightly lower rigidity in my otherwise awesome FISSO indicator holder than in my spindle.

My sensor and engineering background have both engrained in me a very good grasp of the concept that everything moves - it isn't if - it's only how much. Doesn't matter how big it is. It will deform under load. I think this played a bit of a role in the results to follow.

After this, I mounted a digital edge finder (that is fairly consistent to a tenth of an inch) and compared various random measurements of Grade B gauge blocks from 1/2 inch to 4 inches. Again, no cyclicity to the measurements - just a very very slight slowly growing error with overall distance. However, the error was less than the growing error in the prior test which suggests a combination of tramming, scaling, and rigidity for the prior tests. In all cases, the readings were within the specified tolerance of the gauge blocks. So they might even be right.

I also mounted a Mahr Millimess 1 micron indicator in my Fisso holder and got:

10 vs 10 microns on the DRO
15 vs 15
31 vs 30
46 vs 45
61 vs 60

Again a tiny bit of creep if you can even call one micron creep. The usable range of the indicator is only +/- 30 microns.

Lastly, I mounted an inexpensive 2 inch length 1/2 thou dial indicator and got:

10. 9.9 on DRO
20. 19.9
30 29.8
40. 39.8
50. 49.9
60. 59.8
70. 69.8
80. 80.0
90. 90.1
100. 100. 0
125. 124.7
150. 149.8
175. 175.1
200. 199.8
250. 250.2
300. 300.3
350. 350.2
400. 400.2
500. 499.8
600. 599.7
700. 699.9
800. 799.9
900. 899.8
1000. 999.7. 999.8. 999.6. 999.6
1500. 1499.9. 1499.8. 1499.9. 1499.7
2000. 1999.9. 1999.8. 1999.7. 1999.8

At the end, as you can see, I decided to do some repeat comparisons. I did this because I thought my cheap indicator might be sticking. It is also only a 1/2 thou indicator. Although one can discern better resolution than that, it's still outside the usable range of the indicator and can't be trusted (not that it's all that trustworthy anyway....). The numbers sort of validate that but it might also be holder flex in my Noga Indicator Holder. Who knows for sure. I am planning to do some holder comparisons in the near future so something might come up then.

All in all, my testing did show a few interesting anomalies that arise from the methods and equipment used. But the good news (or bad) is that I don't seem to have the cyclicity errors that Yuriy experienced.

One of the things I didn't do in the testing I did was to deliberately test the scales at the magnetic boundaries. I plan to do that sometime in the next few days (perhaps even today). But I'll have to think a while on exactly how to do that. How do I know where the boundaries are! Or do I just do a full curve using two indicators simultaneously - one to track location and one for precision..... LOL!

I've told Yuriy that I would be happy to do any further testing he might want me to do. But I don't have good video skills, I have no data access to my DRO or my measurement equipment, I am also old, blind in one eye from a stroke, and I shake like a leaf, so it won't be fancy!



May the force be with you David......
Thanks John, I watched Yuriy's video twice and noticed the non-zeroing on the indicator. That has to account for some of the peaks/valleys in the discrepancies that he's seeing does it not?
 
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Remember folks that DRO can also have cosine error - so even if you were to figure out DRO is off by say few tenths over say 10 inches you maybe be testing not so much the DRO but how level it is.

Since it is so difficult to figure out DRO accuracy with all available in a home shop equipment - maybe most DROs are good enough?

The magnetic scale technology only recently is catching up to glass mostly b/c glass can be done (thanks to things such as DVD tech) in rather small steps. Magnetic tape is much harder. Thus magnetic DRO done right is more expensive.
 
Remember folks that DRO can also have cosine error - so even if you were to figure out DRO is off by say few tenths over say 10 inches you maybe be testing not so much the DRO but how level it is.

I already mentioned that earlier. But it's not significant at very short distances. There are other possible sources of error too.

What is important with Yuriy's discovery, is that the error is non-linear, ocurrs at short distances, and is quite signicant in magnitude. If this discovery is really true, it's a problem even for hobby usage. But we will see.

Since it is so difficult to figure out DRO accuracy with all available in a home shop equipment - maybe most DROs are good enough?

I have to agree with you. In my humble opinion, anything that requires significant precision demands the use of precision metrology equipment too. There is no way I would ever trust a DRO alone.

Even if the errors he finds are real, they are not sooooo huge as to render a DRO useless anyway. Most tasks don't require a few thou let alone a few tenths of a thou. There are, a few tasks that do and that's what precision micrometers are for.
 
He's probably correct. There has to be a compelling reason why Heidenhain, Fagor, Mitutoyo, and Acu-Rite don't use magnetic scales and have stayed with glass scales.

I'd bet he is onto something. I'm just not convinced yet that it's the magnetic scale. Mine doesn't do that.

@Dabbler also said to me that his discovery goes against the river current. That means it deserves close scrutiny. I agree and already said so in my own words.

Magnetic tape is much harder. Thus magnetic DRO done right is more expensive.

I don't agree. They just charge more for it cuz they can. Pure marketing.

The process is out of reach for mere mortals. But at volume I think it's much cheaper.

When I bought my scales I had no difficulty getting them to give me lower prices than glass.

I'd guess we are all gunna learn a lot about all this in the weeks to come.
 
I have Ditron magnetic scales on my lathe. I really only needed magnetic on the cross slide but explaining to someone in China that I wanted one magnetic and one glass scale was not successful. I used the magnetic scale because it was smaller than the glass ones. 100% happy with the magnetic scales but I have no way to check them for accuracy on the Z axis. X axis seems fine though. Magnetic scales were way more expensive than glass.
 
There has to be a compelling reason why Heidenhain

Heidenhain LS 328,688,628487,477,1877 are glass LB382, LC281, LC211 are magnetic
Fagor offers both magnetic and glass (sorry no part numbers)
Mitutoyo AT715 is magnetic and AT103, AT113 and AT116 are glass
Accu-Rite only offers glass. Now owned by Heidenhain, they see it as their low cost offering (??)

When you talk to the technical reps, each one has their own bias... It is funny to see them dance when you ask which is more stable over time and longer lasting... Watch them squirm!
 
When you talk to the technical reps, each one has their own bias... It is funny to see them dance when you ask which is more stable over time and longer lasting... Watch them squirm!

This has to be the funniest thing I have read today! The marketing guys define the hype and then the technical staff are paid to defend that crap! It can be really hilarious.

I had the distinct pleasure of being responsible for keeping the marketing and advertising folks honest in a big corp. Sort of a reversal of the traditional roles. What made it extra funny is that those marketing guys sometimes believed their own crap cuz some other corp was spewing it!

I can see the dancing you describe right now! Too funny!
 
but I have no way to check them for accuracy on the Z axis. X axis seems fine though.

Mount a plunge indicator such that it bears on the tailstock side of the tool holder. Then you can move the carriage or even the compound to change and measure Z on both the DRO and the indicator. As @Tom Kitta said earlier try to make sure the indicator is parallel to the spindle or cosine error might get you. But it's a linear error and wont matter much over small distances.
 
Heidenhain LS 328,688,628487,477,1877 are glass LB382, LC281, LC211 are magnetic
Fagor offers both magnetic and glass (sorry no part numbers)
Mitutoyo AT715 is magnetic and AT103, AT113 and AT116 are glass
Accu-Rite only offers glass. Now owned by Heidenhain, they see it as their low cost offering (??)

When you talk to the technical reps, each one has their own bias... It is funny to see them dance when you ask which is more stable over time and longer lasting... Watch them squirm!
I had a look at the Heidenhain catalogue. They have several types of scales:

DIADUR precision graduations are composed of an extremely thin layer of chromium on a substrate—usually of glass or glass ceramic. The accuracy of the graduation structure lies within the micron and submicron range. Vacuum machine for application of chromium layers

METALLUR With its special optical composition of reflective gold layers, METALLUR graduations show a virtually planar structure. They are therefore particularly tolerant to contamination.

Phase grating with approx. 0.25 µm grating height Phase gratings Special manufacturing processes make it possible to produce three-dimensional graduation structures, possessing certain optical characteristics. The structure widths are in the range of a few microns down to quarters of a micron.

SUPRADUR Graduations manufactured with the SUPRADUR process function optically like three-dimensional phase gratings, but they have a planar structure and are therefore particularly insensitive to contamination.

OPTODUR
The OPTODUR process produces graduation structures with particularly high reflectance. Its composition as an optically three dimensional, planar structure is similar to the SUPRADUR graduation.

MAGNODUR
Thin magnetically active layers in the micron range are structured for very fine, magnetized graduations.


The Magnodur is, which is their magnetic tape version, is only found on their angle encoders.
 
@thestelster I appreciate the detail you dug up there but whaaaa? Who let the Marketing Dept loose with the word processor??? :D What does it all really mean?!

What’s an optically 3 dimensional planar structure? :oops:

D :cool:
 
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