They are angled. You get quite a positive grip when you tighten down.
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Tool Do I need a Machinist Clamping Set?
- Thread starter StevSmar
- Start date
Tool
I have 3 sets of different sizes purchased over time to fit different sizes of t-slots. All are inexpensive bargain sets. If I recall correctly, one is KBCTools, one is princess auto, and the other is amazon. The serrated steps on ALL of them are canted downward (80 degrees or so) such that they self align and won't ever fall off.
Former Member
Guest
Yes they are, believe if you go to the machinery handbook, they give you the specs.
As to the studs, I also use allen screws for some applications, black threaded rod (cut to length). Better studs are roll formed (stronger thread) and have flat formed (or ground) into them to allow removal from the T-nuts (more on this later).
I have also made a few T-nuts over the years. If you make your own (or buy cheap ones) be aware that as you tighten you can drive the stud or screw through the nut into the surface below the slots. This force together with over tighten (push from below and pull from above) destroys (breaks out) your slots faster than you can say C&@P. The book says you should stake the bottom thread or two to prevent this from happening. Well made ones have this so don't tap it out unless required, it is there intentionally.
This also why the threaded stubs get chewed up at one end and become un-usable. The studs are considered a disposable.
You will find that with your most common used setup (ie vise, plate or whatever) do not separate your stud and T-nut, keep those together permanently for a waste free (destroyed stud) life.
BTW there are also hemispherical washers which allow flatten uneven surfaces for better clamping on uneven surfaces and less chances of doing casting damage to your bed due to sharp point loads and reduce thread damage.
The ones I have are like that, I think it is like that to help "lock in" the clamp to the step, I suspect if it were just a 90deg step the bar would probabaly slide off the block pretty easily
gerritv
Gerrit
I bought only the blocks I needed, not a whole set. I have learned not to buy more than I need, it just collects and becomes a storage problem. If it turns out that I need a few more studs or blcks, I know where to get them.
I used allthread in the past, the Teco studs and nuts are far superior. The step blocks stack so getting a 4" tall one is a waste IMO, just get 2 of the shorter ones and stack. This is why the 70° is so important, it locks the 2 together as if it is one block.
DPittman
Ultra Member
I believe mine look just like that also. I will try to get a puck this morning to confirm.
DPittman
Ultra Member
It's amazing what you see in a photo that you never noticed before.....
If I were you I'd get some oil or corrosion protection onto your blocks as soon as possible. Best to check the rest of your set too. Otherwise it will only get worse.
Personally, I recommend WD40 Corrosion Inhibitor or Liquid Wrench Rust Inhibitor. They are both expensive but so are your tools.....
Almost anything is better than nothing.
DPittman
Ultra Member
Ha ha I never noticed that either, it probably happened on the boat over from China. I can just about guarantee that it didn't start or progress in my shop.
Phew, I checked the T-nuts I purchased and the stud can‘t be threaded through it.
I can’t imagine how upset I’d be if I broke a T-slot on the mills table…
Thanks for pointing that out @Degen
140mower
Don
Or the shaper table..... It was this way when I got it and I never met the meat-head that did it, but I have cursed him, his family and the pet chicken more than a few times.....
This is a very common issue. It has been discussed many times on the forum. It's worth repeating over and over.
Some blocks are also made with staked threads. It is possible to gronk a screw down through these threads. It's best to be constantly aware of the possibility and always check what you are doing to make sure you don't damage your t-slots.
Former Member
Guest
Looks like you could use a really good welder who could fix the table and then re-machine the slot.
Former Member
Guest
I do have t-nuts that are through tapped but I use them with allen bolts for fixed depth. The others that I have used are Red Locktite in place with the studs, specific application.
They can be useful in certain applications.
They can be useful in certain applications.
As Degen says, it is also worth knowing that some vendors sell both fully threaded and partially threaded T-nuts. I got both kinds from KBC Tools. Be careful.
Isn’t a ripped table on a shaper a fairly common thing? One mistake in the shaper feed - it hits the vise and, rips the whole thing off the table t nuts and table slots included?
140mower
Don
I have considered that, but I have too many projects on the go now, I think I would rather put the time and energy into the bigger shaper and when it's done, let this one become someone else's project.... In the meantime I have been able to clamp around the breakout.
140mower
Don
Not sure how common it is, maybe more of a problem with a bigger more powerful one. I have screwed up and taken too big of a cut before and all I managed was to slip the belts when things came to a crashing stop. The profile of the hole to me looks like the tee nut was jacked up and through the tee slot. Thankfully the rest of the machine has enough wear on it that it doesn't upset me as much as it could have, I could have put a curse on his horse and dog as well.
