Tool Do I need a Machinist Clamping Set?

[PaulL]

Just happened to be on another forum & saw this. Is it the camera angle or are the serration steps not angled inward a bit from 90-deg steps?

View attachment 29399

They are angled. You get quite a positive grip when you tighten down.

 

[Susquatch]

I thought I read somewhere the steps are actually slightly more than 90-deg so they self stabilize & don't slip? Or maybe that's what they are supposed to be & mine aren't? LOL. But I may be hallucinating there.

I have 3 sets of different sizes purchased over time to fit different sizes of t-slots. All are inexpensive bargain sets. If I recall correctly, one is KBCTools, one is princess auto, and the other is amazon. The serrated steps on ALL of them are canted downward (80 degrees or so) such that they self align and won't ever fall off.

 

[Former Member]

I have 3 sets of different sizes purchased over time to fit different sizes of t-slots. All are inexpensive bargain sets. If I recall correctly, one is KBCTools, one is princess auto, and the other is amazon. The serrated steps on ALL of them are canted downward (80 degrees or so) such that they self align and won't ever fall off.

Yes they are, believe if you go to the machinery handbook, they give you the specs.

As to the studs, I also use allen screws for some applications, black threaded rod (cut to length). Better studs are roll formed (stronger thread) and have flat formed (or ground) into them to allow removal from the T-nuts (more on this later).

I have also made a few T-nuts over the years. If you make your own (or buy cheap ones) be aware that as you tighten you can drive the stud or screw through the nut into the surface below the slots. This force together with over tighten (push from below and pull from above) destroys (breaks out) your slots faster than you can say C&@P. The book says you should stake the bottom thread or two to prevent this from happening. Well made ones have this so don't tap it out unless required, it is there intentionally.

This also why the threaded stubs get chewed up at one end and become un-usable. The studs are considered a disposable.

You will find that with your most common used setup (ie vise, plate or whatever) do not separate your stud and T-nut, keep those together permanently for a waste free (destroyed stud) life.

BTW there are also hemispherical washers which allow flatten uneven surfaces for better clamping on uneven surfaces and less chances of doing casting damage to your bed due to sharp point loads and reduce thread damage.

 

[phaxtris]

Just happened to be on another forum & saw this. Is it the camera angle or are the serration steps not angled inward a bit from 90-deg steps?

View attachment 29399

The ones I have are like that, I think it is like that to help "lock in" the clamp to the step, I suspect if it were just a 90deg step the bar would probabaly slide off the block pretty easily

 

[gerritv]

I think I posted this before. I made bars for TECO supports. Based on their drawing available from web site: My Atlas MF that came with a metric ton of cutters just happened to have a 70° one.

 

[gerritv]

I was looking at the prices on kstooling for TECO ... holy. I can't afford $461 for a clamp set. That's list but assuming 30% off it's still a lot. https://ktstooling.com/catalogue/product/466459

Making your own is making more sense. 3/8 ready rod. a bunch of 1x3/4 square bar for clamps. T nuts ok. The trickier part is the blocks with the nice interlocking teeth. I suppose one could just use stack blocks. A pile of 1.5 x 1.5 by 1/2 flat blocks with a hole in the middle for a threaded rod.

I bought only the blocks I needed, not a whole set. I have learned not to buy more than I need, it just collects and becomes a storage problem. If it turns out that I need a few more studs or blcks, I know where to get them.
I used allthread in the past, the Teco studs and nuts are far superior. The step blocks stack so getting a 4" tall one is a waste IMO, just get 2 of the shorter ones and stack. This is why the 70° is so important, it locks the 2 together as if it is one block.

 

[DPittman]

Just happened to be on another forum & saw this. Is it the camera angle or are the serration steps not angled inward a bit from 90-deg steps?

View attachment 29399

I believe mine look just like that also. I will try to get a puck this morning to confirm.

 

[DPittman]

I believe mine look just like that also. I will try to get a puck this morning to confirm.

 

[Susquatch]

I believe mine look just like that also. I will try to get a puck this morning to confirm.

It's amazing what you see in a photo that you never noticed before.....



If I were you I'd get some oil or corrosion protection onto your blocks as soon as possible. Best to check the rest of your set too. Otherwise it will only get worse.

Personally, I recommend WD40 Corrosion Inhibitor or Liquid Wrench Rust Inhibitor. They are both expensive but so are your tools.....

Almost anything is better than nothing.

 

[DPittman]

It's amazing what you see in a photo that you never noticed before.....

View attachment 29405

If I were you I'd get some oil or corrosion protection onto your blocks as soon as possible. Best to check the rest of your set too. Otherwise it will only get worse.

Personally, I recommend WD40 Corrosion Inhibitor or Liquid Wrench Rust Inhibitor. They are both expensive but so are your tools.....

Almost anything is better than nothing.

Ha ha I never noticed that either, it probably happened on the boat over from China. I can just about guarantee that it didn't start or progress in my shop.

 

[StevSmar]

…cheap ones) be aware that as you tighten you can drive the stud or screw through the nut into the surface below the slots… Well made ones have this so don't tap it out unless required, it is there intentionally.

Phew, I checked the T-nuts I purchased and the stud can‘t be threaded through it.

I can’t imagine how upset I’d be if I broke a T-slot on the mills table…

Thanks for pointing that out @Degen

 

[140mower]

Just be VERY careful not to over torque them. A piece of broken T-slot on your mill table will cause extreme profanity and self abuse cuz you gotta look at it every time you use your mill......

Or the shaper table..... It was this way when I got it and I never met the meat-head that did it, but I have cursed him, his family and the pet chicken more than a few times.....

 

[Susquatch]

Phew, I checked the T-nuts I purchased and the stud can‘t be threaded through it.

I can’t imagine how upset I’d be if I broke a T-slot on the mills table…

Thanks for pointing that out @Degen

This is a very common issue. It has been discussed many times on the forum. It's worth repeating over and over.

Some blocks are also made with staked threads. It is possible to gronk a screw down through these threads. It's best to be constantly aware of the possibility and always check what you are doing to make sure you don't damage your t-slots.

 

[Former Member]

View attachment 29414

Looks like you could use a really good welder who could fix the table and then re-machine the slot.

 

[Former Member]

I do have t-nuts that are through tapped but I use them with allen bolts for fixed depth. The others that I have used are Red Locktite in place with the studs, specific application.

They can be useful in certain applications.

 

[Susquatch]

I do have t-nuts that are through tapped but I use them with allen bolts for fixed depth. The others that I have used are Red Locktite in place with the studs, specific application.

As Degen says, it is also worth knowing that some vendors sell both fully threaded and partially threaded T-nuts. I got both kinds from KBC Tools. Be careful.

 

[Janger]

View attachment 29414

Isn’t a ripped table on a shaper a fairly common thing? One mistake in the shaper feed - it hits the vise and, rips the whole thing off the table t nuts and table slots included?

 

[140mower]

Looks like you could use a really good welder who could fix the table and then re-machine the slot.

I have considered that, but I have too many projects on the go now, I think I would rather put the time and energy into the bigger shaper and when it's done, let this one become someone else's project.... In the meantime I have been able to clamp around the breakout.

 

[140mower]

Isn’t a ripped table on a shaper a fairly common thing? One mistake in the shaper feed - it hits the vise and, rips the whole thing off the table t nuts and table slots included?

Not sure how common it is, maybe more of a problem with a bigger more powerful one. I have screwed up and taken too big of a cut before and all I managed was to slip the belts when things came to a crashing stop. The profile of the hole to me looks like the tee nut was jacked up and through the tee slot. Thankfully the rest of the machine has enough wear on it that it doesn't upset me as much as it could have, I could have put a curse on his horse and dog as well.

 

[Dabbler]

I would *only* ever use staked T nuts on a machine tool. I would hate looking at the damage every day.