Dabbler
ersatz engineer
@RobinHood if the need arises you can borrow mine 
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Deckel FP 3 L
- Thread starter RobinHood
- Start date
Thanks for the offer @Dabbler. Forgot you recently acquired one…
For this purpose, the Spin Dexer I got from Bert was plenty good enough since he had tuned it up. In the past, I had used my offshore one (it has been modded as well - just not as extensively as Bert’s) as a punch grinder replacement.
For this purpose, the Spin Dexer I got from Bert was plenty good enough since he had tuned it up. In the past, I had used my offshore one (it has been modded as well - just not as extensively as Bert’s) as a punch grinder replacement.
Yeah, that’s a bit steep for me as well.
Robin Renzetti goes through designing and making the “ultimate tool room spindle” (punch grinder) here. No need to spend $4K when you can make your own, right?
140mower
Don
Holy crap, those aren't cheap at all. I have one, and I will guarantee I didn't pay that much for it..... My grin will be even bigger next time I get down to the shop and see it again.Yes, it works very well - as long as your surface grinder has the real estate to accommodate the two items.
The proper tool is a punch grinder. They are very compact, super accurate and can be pricey. I don’t have one.
HARIG 010-100 V-Block Fixture Grinding Fixture
Ball and race design with 36 balls under preload for minimum deflection & sealed from grinding dustApplicationsGrinds various shaped punches up to 1-1/4" diameter.Built for high precision work within ±.0001".FeaturesV-block unit.Adjustable stop and pin allows swing to desired angles.Gaging...www.travers.com
The missing hand wheel
Took some time off from the outdoor summer project (re-shingling the house) and finally made the missing hand wheel for the mill.
It is used to manually turn the input shaft for easier gear selection, cutter touch-off, etc.
From the manual, it looked like it was about 7” diameter, without any spokes - for safety as this spins without a cover outside of the rear housing any time the machine runs.
I had some 1” cut-off aluminum plate and some 2.25” cut-off solid round aluminum bar. I made the main part of the wheel “about 7” “(don’t know what it ended up being - because I never measured it; not sure if that is even allowed in the machining world?).
Chucked up the irregular shaped plate in the 4J, bored it out for a heavy press fit onto the boss. Took all of 35 tones (should have heated up the plate for an easier press, oh well).
Machined half the 1” width to the OD (which I did not measure) and the boss nose and the recess and the M12 through hole all in one set-up.
Flipped the thing around and finished the front side to make it look like the rear side as far as the relief and 3/8” radiussed wheel edges.
(the radius cutter is parallel with the lathe axis - the picture shows it off for some reason; maybe camera angle?)
Last thing was to drill for the drive pins. Centered M12 hole under the mill spindle using a gauge pin and then offset 18mm in each direction for the holes.
The nose shoulder is a really close fit onto the pulley nose of the input shaft. The drive pins are probably not necessary, but the OE had them, so I put them back in.
Next will be to figure out a way to tram out the 1.5thou over 16” Y-axis error… if I had the universal table, it would be easy. But I don’t - only have the fixed one.
X-axis deviation is negligible over the full travel.
Took some time off from the outdoor summer project (re-shingling the house) and finally made the missing hand wheel for the mill.
It is used to manually turn the input shaft for easier gear selection, cutter touch-off, etc.
From the manual, it looked like it was about 7” diameter, without any spokes - for safety as this spins without a cover outside of the rear housing any time the machine runs.
I had some 1” cut-off aluminum plate and some 2.25” cut-off solid round aluminum bar. I made the main part of the wheel “about 7” “(don’t know what it ended up being - because I never measured it; not sure if that is even allowed in the machining world?).
Chucked up the irregular shaped plate in the 4J, bored it out for a heavy press fit onto the boss. Took all of 35 tones (should have heated up the plate for an easier press, oh well).
Machined half the 1” width to the OD (which I did not measure) and the boss nose and the recess and the M12 through hole all in one set-up.
Flipped the thing around and finished the front side to make it look like the rear side as far as the relief and 3/8” radiussed wheel edges.
(the radius cutter is parallel with the lathe axis - the picture shows it off for some reason; maybe camera angle?)
Last thing was to drill for the drive pins. Centered M12 hole under the mill spindle using a gauge pin and then offset 18mm in each direction for the holes.
The nose shoulder is a really close fit onto the pulley nose of the input shaft. The drive pins are probably not necessary, but the OE had them, so I put them back in.
Next will be to figure out a way to tram out the 1.5thou over 16” Y-axis error… if I had the universal table, it would be easy. But I don’t - only have the fixed one.
X-axis deviation is negligible over the full travel.
Looks REALLY NICE Rudy. My lathe needs something like that to help turn the spindle when dialing things in or even aligning the gear teeth when changing speeds. Nice job! I like it!