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DavidR8's shop shenanigans

DavidR8

Scrap maker
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
I have an Incra box joint jig that is missing some 1/4-20 knobs.
Drew this in Alibre but was stumped on how to draw the knurling.
The knob is 19mm across the largest diameter so I made a circular pattern of 1mm holes centered on the edge and trimmed off the excess.
Screenshot 2024-06-05 122405.png
 

jcdammeyer

John
Premium Member
I have an Incra box joint jig that is missing some 1/4-20 knobs.
Drew this in Alibre but was stumped on how to draw the knurling.
The knob is 19mm across the largest diameter so I made a circular pattern of 1mm holes centered on the edge and trimmed off the excess.
View attachment 48484
I did something similar. I imagine with much smaller holes repeated you can simulate the knurling but for all intents and purposes I found what you did more than adequate for the drawings.
 

DavidR8

Scrap maker
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
I did something similar. I imagine with much smaller holes repeated you can simulate the knurling but for all intents and purposes I found what you did more than adequate for the drawings.
The challenge is printer resolution. After I printed the first one with 1mm holes I found the 'knurl' is not aggressive enough to adequately grip.
Trying again with 2mm holes.
 

LenVW

Process Machinery Designer
Premium Member
Looks good David !!
Did you insert a ‘threaded‘ sleeve into the printed knob ?
 

whydontu

I Tried, It Broke
Premium Member
I don’t know much about 3d printers, but couldn’t you print the knob around a rivet nut to get your 1/4-20 insert?
 

DavidR8

Scrap maker
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
I don’t know much about 3d printers, but couldn’t you print the knob around a rivet nut to get your 1/4-20 insert?
That's not really possible because there's no clearance above the print bed for the nut. My print nozzle runs above the bead about the thickness of a sheet of printer paper.
The inserts I use are heat set into the plastic with a soldering iron, works really well and is very quick to do.
 

jcdammeyer

John
Premium Member
Hard to believe these drawings for the computer controlled back fence for my 3:1 tool are dated 2007. Not yet completed because the project for the bench for the tool to sit on is incomplete. I was going to write some new software for my ELS to control the back fence position so I could jog through a series of positions. Bend. Jog to the next one. Bend. (or shear).

The bench was to hold the corner notcher, 3:1 tool and the 3 Ton press with XY positioning for CNC controlled hole punching or nibbling.

FenceAssembly.jpg

So many things to do...
 

jcdammeyer

John
Premium Member
Hard to believe these drawings for the computer controlled back fence for my 3:1 tool are dated 2007. Not yet completed because the project for the bench for the tool to sit on is incomplete. I was going to write some new software for my ELS to control the back fence position so I could jog through a series of positions. Bend. Jog to the next one. Bend. (or shear).

The bench was to hold the corner notcher, 3:1 tool and the 3 Ton press with XY positioning for CNC controlled hole punching or nibbling.

View attachment 48515

So many things to do...
This is the drive assembly that has a sprocket on the RHS and couples to the lead screw on the LHS. The two sprockets will be connected with a chain and a stepper motor that drives the chain. The lead screw pulls the the other two brackets and the fence. The fence has an upper and lower part for the shear or the bender.
1717716044457.png


1717716089965.png

The brackets are cast but not machined. The sprocket hubs are complete but never did get to the couplers or drive shafts etc.
1717716172053.png
 
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