• Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.

DavidR8's shop shenanigans

David_R8 said:
Good point. I’ll check in with the architect.
Click to expand...
It should be interesting to find out. Our house built in 1967 with septic field had the cement style perimeter drain tiles circling the house and running out to the drainage ditch along the road. When the ditch was filled in they were supposed to connect this to the storm drain system. We would have to get a permit (eventually) to connect remove the septic system and connect to the sewer drain system.

Well the hollow tiles may well have been emptying into the storm ditch but the people doing the work, if they even found it, didn't connect it to anything. We discovered that when we finally removed the septic field and had the cement septic tank broken down and filled in. The house was then connected to plastic drain pipe and run down hill to the road to the sewage connection.

But here's the interesting thing. At the back of the house where essentially the ground level was 8' above the basement level (front of house is level with the ground) there is a floor drain right by the washing machine pipes a industrial sink drain and beside that a sink/shower/toilet. The industrial sink, shower, bathroom sink and toilet all drain into the sewer drain.

The floor drain went out the back of the house into the perimeter drain through a trap. At the worst of the wet weather I had a plastic pipe stuck into that floor drain and packing around it so we wouldn't have the basement filling with water. The water in the vertical pipe was about 8" above the concrete floor level.

When the tiles were pulled the majority along the back of the house all were full of clay with maybe an 1/8" gap along the top. As the water ran down hill it towards the house it would hit the wall and rise up. Eventually the hydro static pressure was enough for it to move around the house through and along side the blocked drain tiles and out the front area. As long as I had the vertical pipe stuck in there and the shop vac handy for sucking up leakage.

Anyway. I suspect modern code will insist that floor drains in the concrete floor will be tied through a trap to the sewer drain not the storm drain.
 
Oh and in our Edmonton house (cinder block basement walls) our water problems were eventually solved with a new perimeter drain too. But inside when we added the bathroom downstairs I tied into the basement floor drain which was also the sewer drain. To do this and take off water pressure that would ooze through basement floor cracks I added a Fiodrain. Worked like a charm.

www.drader.com

Fiodrain Subsoil & Floor Drain | Drader Manufacturing Industries, Ltd.

Innovative floor drain, subsoil drainage device, backwater valve—Our Fiodrain specialty product is ideal for the Plumbing & Construction industry.
www.drader.com www.drader.com
 
On our house, a 'drainage contractor' recommended the removal of our perimeter drains to fight water ingress to the basement. Sad part, it was connected to the storm drains in the street.

20 years later, to combat water ingress, I had 1/2 of the basement wall tabbed/tarred, and put in a brand new perimeter drain, all to a dry sump in the lane. To do this I had to dig the walls to the foundation by hand. None of the contractors at the time could get any machines in to do it. So, having buiolt up my digging muscles, I also dug the 4' X 12' X 6' dry sump by hand... Behind the neighbors house! The drain pipe to the lane was horizontally bored to the sump. Those were the days!
 
jcdammeyer said:
It should be interesting to find out. Our house built in 1967 with septic field had the cement style perimeter drain tiles circling the house and running out to the drainage ditch along the road. When the ditch was filled in they were supposed to connect this to the storm drain system. We would have to get a permit (eventually) to connect remove the septic system and connect to the sewer drain system.

Well the hollow tiles may well have been emptying into the storm ditch but the people doing the work, if they even found it, didn't connect it to anything. We discovered that when we finally removed the septic field and had the cement septic tank broken down and filled in. The house was then connected to plastic drain pipe and run down hill to the road to the sewage connection.

But here's the interesting thing. At the back of the house where essentially the ground level was 8' above the basement level (front of house is level with the ground) there is a floor drain right by the washing machine pipes a industrial sink drain and beside that a sink/shower/toilet. The industrial sink, shower, bathroom sink and toilet all drain into the sewer drain.

The floor drain went out the back of the house into the perimeter drain through a trap. At the worst of the wet weather I had a plastic pipe stuck into that floor drain and packing around it so we wouldn't have the basement filling with water. The water in the vertical pipe was about 8" above the concrete floor level.

When the tiles were pulled the majority along the back of the house all were full of clay with maybe an 1/8" gap along the top. As the water ran down hill it towards the house it would hit the wall and rise up. Eventually the hydro static pressure was enough for it to move around the house through and along side the blocked drain tiles and out the front area. As long as I had the vertical pipe stuck in there and the shop vac handy for sucking up leakage.

Anyway. I suspect modern code will insist that floor drains in the concrete floor will be tied through a trap to the sewer drain not the storm drain.
Click to expand...
I added a Granny suite in our basement a couple of years ago. Put in a small kitchenette. Ran the sink drain to the drain in the floor of the laundry room - conveniently placed on the other side of the wall the sink was on. Just finished the morning before the inspector came and ran a sink of water to make sure all was good. The sink went down - and the water came up in the laundry room! After telling the inspector that I was going to fail the test anyway, she spent some time talking to me about what the issue might be. Turns out in town when our house was built a lot of the plumbers would just attach 5-6' of pipe to the floor drain and let it run into the gravel under the house.

After jackhammering out another 2' of cement I was able to tie into the bathroom sink drain on the OTHER side of the laundry room. No problem passing inspection then.

So yeah, better to do it right the first time or it might come back to bite you in the butt down the road.
 
Trying out a new laser technique.
Powdercoated aluminum then lasering off the powdercoat.
IMG_0841.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Is this the machine you used to engrave the scribe box you made?

Can you cut thin wood and metal?

Any pictures of cool stuff you have done? I think I feel a Christmas present for my wife. (No seriously, she's been after me too add one after seeing what I can do with the 3D printer)
 
Tomc938 said:
Is this the machine you used to engrave the scribe box you made?

Can you cut thin wood and metal?

Any pictures of cool stuff you have done? I think I feel a Christmas present for my wife. (No seriously, she's been after me too add one after seeing what I can do with the 3D printer)
Click to expand...
Yes it’s what I used to engrave the box. Works like a hot damn for that.
I can cut 3mm ply in two passes. No metal cutting though sadly.
 
David_R8 said:
Yes it’s what I used to engrave the box. Works like a hot damn for that.
I can cut 3mm ply in two passes. No metal cutting though sadly.
Click to expand...
Hate to keep asking questions, but I have been looking at laser modules and I see some that are 20 watt, but 4 watt optical output.

When you say 10 watt, I assume that's not the optical output?

Do you maybe have a link to your laser module?
 
Tomc938 said:
Hate to keep asking questions, but I have been looking at laser modules and I see some that are 20 watt, but 4 watt optical output.

When you say 10 watt, I assume that's not the optical output?
Click to expand...
Actually mine is 10W optical output.
ortur.net

Ortur LM2 Pro S2 Laser Engraving & Cutting Machine 15,000mm/min (10W/5W)

Buy the best laser engraver for wood on Ortur! Ortur Laser Master 2 Pro S2 is a Diode CNC and ideal for wood engraving. Choose a 5W or 10W laser engraver for your engraving needs now!
ortur.net ortur.net
 
Tomc938 said:
Yeah,, but I have a US account, so no exchange. Just the lost exchange I guess, but I don't look at it that way. I have a bunch I have to use up before I die.
Click to expand...
It's a super handy tool.
If you think of it as a super accurate knife the possibilities are huge. Gaskets, cardboard, paper.
I'm going to use it to cut new felt way wipers for the lathe.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top