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Darren's active projects

Chicken lights

Forum Pony Express Driver
I apologize for the big breaks in the action. I quit my job in February, and went fulltime in my own shop doing automotive repair. I also do small excavation/bobcat services on the side for a few of my contractor buddies who i also do fleet work for. So been very busy, yet less busy at the same time. Working for yourself is the best. I'd never go back to dealership life.

Anyways, I bought another lathe, because 3 lathes in the shop is an odd number, I clearly don't have enough irons in the fire, and lathe number 4 was a nice little Standard Modern early series 2000 11x20.

I don't know the history on it, but it was clearly from a school. Its 0.75hp, 3 phase. It seems to be be in good shape, so likely it will get a VFD rewire and a cleaning, a few minor repairs and it will be up for sale.

Has anyone messed with the cross slide screw on this particular machine? How is the screw endplay adjusted? not the screw/nut play, that seems ok, but the cross slide screw itself has endplay. I hope to find time to look at it soon.

Pics soon
It’s amazing how, when “on the clock” at a 9-5 guys squawk at staying late

Yet working for yourself long days don’t seem so long, it’s not as taxing with nobody watching over your shoulder

Then again, I’m stranded with a broken POS trailer until tomorrow sometime

Congrats on the newest addition to the family!
 

Darren

Ultra Member
Premium Member
It’s amazing how, when “on the clock” at a 9-5 guys squawk at staying late

Yet working for yourself long days don’t seem so long, it’s not as taxing with nobody watching over your shoulder

Then again, I’m stranded with a broken POS trailer until tomorrow sometime

Congrats on the newest addition to the family!
At least I only have to deal with one a$$hole boss now!

It's the best. Wish I could have done it sooner!
 

Darren

Ultra Member
Premium Member
I went from being an employee IT consultant to working as an independent. Working for myself was the best move possible! Less taxes, more time off. ad greater money in the bank at the end of it all.
One of mentors always used to say in his raspy voice "you'll never get rich carrying a lunch pail to work"

And:

"What the hell are you doing, you f@#king idiot!?"

I learned a lot from Jerry.
 

Darren

Ultra Member
Premium Member
Just took it apart. Mine doesn't have the thrust bearings or that adjuster nut. The endplay is adjusted by locking the graduated dial hub tight against the shoulder with the endplay taken up. No good. The screw has some wear, as does the nut, so I'll fix all that. The screw is 9/16" 8tpi, LH acme. The rest of the lathe seems great, so should be a neat little project.
 

Darren

Ultra Member
Premium Member
A couple days ago I ordered some inserts from Cutting Tool Pickers to cut the 8tpi acme and they showed up today. Very good service and prices. They will be my go to from now on. Shipping for 5 inserts was like 10 bucks. Decent.
 

Darren

Ultra Member
Premium Member
I had a bit of time to work on the crossfeed screw for the SM 1120. I ordered some 15mm ID, 28mm OD, 4mm thick thrust bearings: 20220821_205048.jpg
Here's the part number:
20220821_205102.jpg

I bored the original support housing to accept the thrust bearings:


20220821_221220.jpg

On the other side of the support, the thrust bearing goes between the gear and the support housing:
20220821_221230.jpg
20220821_221352.jpg

The problem here is that Standard Modern did not build in a way to positively pre load, or tighten this assembly in the axial direction. No way to take up the end play other than the set screw for the hub for the graduated dial. Here's my solution:
20220821_221619.jpg
20220821_233018.jpg 20220821_232841.jpg
20220821_232921.jpg
20220821_233222.jpg
 

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  • 20220821_231433.jpg
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Darren

Ultra Member
Premium Member
So I lost some text. The new button head screw in the end of the shaft sets the preload on the thrust bearings, and then the original set screw locks the handle on the shaft as it did originally. It's tight and smooth now .

I parted off the worn acme threaded section, drilled and reamed for a 5/16 press fit when I make the new threaded section.

20220822_000743.jpg
 
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Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
I parted off the worn acme threaded section, drilled and reamed for a 5/16 press fit when I make the new threaded section.

Seriously? You are gunna join two threaded sections to make one???

Holy Cow @Darren ! I'm REALLY IMPRESSED!
 

Darren

Ultra Member
Premium Member
Seriously? You are gunna join two threaded sections to make one???

Holy Cow @Darren ! I'm REALLY IMPRESSED!
No, just going to replace the entire threaded section with one that I will make today. I ordered a chunk of 1144 stressproof from McMaster. It will have a 1" long stub of 5/16 to press fit into the old shaft. I may actually change that to 3/8". The original shaft dia is 9/16". I could have made a whole new shaft, but the tapered pin holding the gear on may have been drilled and reamed in situ, making it a bit harder to align. Will make the bronze nut first, as I'll be tapping it, then the screw will be machined to fit the nut on the snug side..hopefully. If I don't get the fit right, the new nut will be adjustable.
 
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Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
No, just going to replace the entire threaded section with one that I will make today. I ordered a chunk of 1144 stressproof from McMaster. It will have a 1" long stub of 5/16 to press fit into the old shaft. I may actually change that to 3/8". The original shaft dia is 9/16". I could have made a whole new shaft, but the tapered pin holding the gear on may have been drilled and reamed in situ, making it a bit harder to align. Will make the bronze nut first, as I'll be tapping it, then the screw will be machined to fit the nut on the snug side..hopefully. If I don't get the fit right, the new nut will be adjustable.

OK, your back to just being Superman again, not God......

Very Cool Darren!
 

Aliva

Super User
Adam Booth just posted a repair similar to what your doing. He drilled and tapped the new threaded rod and the old piece. Screwed them together and then TIG welded.
 

Darren

Ultra Member
Premium Member
Thats funny, I had considered doing it thats way as well. I think its overkill for a small machine like this. A heat shrink/press fit will never move, no chance of warping, can't unthread.
 

Aliva

Super User
I agree it maybe a little over kill. I think he drilled and tapped in order to keep a good alignment, but what ever your happy with.
 
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