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Custom ATV Hubs

Maybe depends on the setup & tooling but wouldn't the compound angle be the same in either way feed direction? In the case of your part where the thread is well back of the shoulder, there would be lots of room to turn a thread relief groove, desirable in both cases. If the thread ends at the base of a much larger diameter shoulder, then yes, some tooling ight not work as well. But in HS to TS mode, you would position tool vee in groove, advance the depth of cut, then engage the half nuts. Also something like a internal right hand threading tool could work here as well as long as the part was not supported by a tail stock center which would interfere with toolpost/holder on operator side of part.

Also fine / shallow DOC threads in mild materials often can get away with not being at magic 29.5 deg. I've gone straight in with inserts & there there is no appreciable difference in finish or fit. Sometimes the insert manufactures tables even show this to be the case (but may have other methods of compensation). As threads get bigger & materials get tougher & lead screw backlash is a concern, the compound set becomes important & works to your advantage.
 

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I see what you're getting at now. Whenever I threaded I was always super paranoid. I would pull out of the groove, move the carriage back to zero on both the x and z axis, then go past zero on the z and bring it back to zero to minimize backlash. Then I would engage the half nut on exactly the same number on the dial even if the machine said I could use all odd or even numbers.

I do realize that none of that should matter (except for bringing the x axis back to zero of course) but once you ram that cutter between two threads on a part that's taken hours to make, you tend to get paranoid. That old clausing lathe we had would sometimes jump a half number on the feed dial.

I definately like the idea of cutting from the back side, especially if the compound rest cleared the stock and I could feed the insert in by backing out the compound.

I get it. I only used the number one on the thread dial for years. I still do it that way when it's a precision thread.

If my thread dial ever once jumped a half number I'd never trust it again!
 
Usually the problem with smaller lathes + larger diameter parts is the cross slide cant get far enough to the rear of part to go HS to TS mode. Lower sketch shows the internal type threading tool idea.
 

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I'm going to comment on equipment. Lathe yes a definite requirement. You have a lot of turning to do. Mill, Rotary Table and the rest make it easier, but you will need drill press for the holes and using it as a guide for the taps (or at least careful application by hand/eye). Location of the holes is just simple but careful layout is required.
 
I'm going to comment on equipment. Lathe yes a definite requirement. You have a lot of turning to do. Mill, Rotary Table and the rest make it easier, but you will need drill press for the holes and using it as a guide for the taps (or at least careful application by hand/eye). Location of the holes is just simple but careful layout is required.
I already have a pretty decent drill press, and will be using it to guide my taps in for sure. Like I said though, nothing except the surfaces where the bearings seat needs tight tolerances. All the threaded holes are for things like the brake rotor, wheel and the locking hub.

This is by no means a precision or speed machine I have built. It's more like a floating tank really. This is an older pic of the beast, its come a ways sinxe then.
20210113_154511.jpg
 
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Reading between the lines I feel like that is what you really want to do anyway. The hubs are just your excuse to get one. That's not a criticism, it's just the way a lot of us (me included) are wired.

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Don't want to steal the thread so will just make a small comment and bow out.

This has to be one of the most perceptive comments I have ever read here @Susquatch. You just performed a psychological assessment of the entire forum in one sentence. Take a bow please.
 
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