Colchester Student 13"
- Thread starter ScottyM
- Start date
@Tom O - I've never watched his channel but that is terrible, I hope he recovers. All the confined space training I've done in my life the thought of explosions has always made my skin crawl. That video is pretty terrifying, almost doesn't seem real as stuff like that is usually caught on some 240p security camera in who knows where.
That being said I appreciate the offer! Might take you up on that next time I'm in Calgary. Think I'll leave the acetylene alone for a few days though after that.
That being said I appreciate the offer! Might take you up on that next time I'm in Calgary. Think I'll leave the acetylene alone for a few days though after that.
Turns out SV Seeker pranked everyone! Another idiot to un follow!
https://ktul.com/news/local/tulsa-b...nk-stirs-anger-and-support-online?jwsource=em
Sent from my iPad
https://ktul.com/news/local/tulsa-b...nk-stirs-anger-and-support-online?jwsource=em
Sent from my iPad
Brent H
Ultra Member
Holy smokes!
that guy is a complete dink.
"The only people on a boat that you can count on is your crew. There's no 911. No ambulances. You count on the people around you," Jackson said. "So, why do I filter? Because I want the right people around me."
That “wanna be” sailor is the reason mutiny is a word. People should not be impressed with stupidity. Hopefully any patrons pull out and his boat is deep sixed. What a moron
that guy is a complete dink.
"The only people on a boat that you can count on is your crew. There's no 911. No ambulances. You count on the people around you," Jackson said. "So, why do I filter? Because I want the right people around me."
That “wanna be” sailor is the reason mutiny is a word. People should not be impressed with stupidity. Hopefully any patrons pull out and his boat is deep sixed. What a moron
Tom Kitta
Ultra Member
Yeah looks like the guy faked an injury to... figure out whom will still be around after he revealed it as a fake? I am little bit confused by his experiment or psychology behind it. I definitely would not want anyone on my mountaineering expeditions that fake any injury or lie in any shape and form. Decisions made based on that lie could effect not just success of the expedition but lead to a disaster.
I rebuild this week a small part by welding it up. It does work and I did it few times. Through having a welding positioner for round things would help. Just careful that you don't accidentally heat treat it.
I rebuild this week a small part by welding it up. It does work and I did it few times. Through having a welding positioner for round things would help. Just careful that you don't accidentally heat treat it.
Seeing all the crud that was in the headstock I went ahead and continued to tear it down completely. This all happened the same night as I pulled the input and secondary shaft but am just now finding time to post it all.
To get the spindle out started with the retaining nut at the back. You can see where a precision mechanic previously used a punch delicately remove... I will have to clean that up. I don't bother with spanner wrenches as no matter how many you have, it's never the right one. Nuts like these almost always have a set screw, I like to thread a bolt in (not bottoming out) and use a punch on it. It preserves the threads, is in there secure and acts as a sacrificial piece instead of the nut. Also the softer metal absorbs any harshness of impact. I put a couple witness marks then spun it off.
There was also a retaining nut inside the head at the front. This one spun off easy as it had lived in oil. I undid the bearing cap at the front of the headstock then shot some freeze spay through the bore of the spindle to shrink a bit. The spindle came out pretty easy, taking time to move forward grabbing each piece as it came free. No pictures as all hands were accounted for. Overall everything is in good shape just needs a clean.
Anything else that went into the headstock was pulled out so I could clean out all the bearing material and wonderful sludge from the headstock. First picture is after I had already wiped some out. I made sure every nook and cranny was gotten to.
To get the spindle out started with the retaining nut at the back. You can see where a precision mechanic previously used a punch delicately remove... I will have to clean that up. I don't bother with spanner wrenches as no matter how many you have, it's never the right one. Nuts like these almost always have a set screw, I like to thread a bolt in (not bottoming out) and use a punch on it. It preserves the threads, is in there secure and acts as a sacrificial piece instead of the nut. Also the softer metal absorbs any harshness of impact. I put a couple witness marks then spun it off.
There was also a retaining nut inside the head at the front. This one spun off easy as it had lived in oil. I undid the bearing cap at the front of the headstock then shot some freeze spay through the bore of the spindle to shrink a bit. The spindle came out pretty easy, taking time to move forward grabbing each piece as it came free. No pictures as all hands were accounted for. Overall everything is in good shape just needs a clean.
Anything else that went into the headstock was pulled out so I could clean out all the bearing material and wonderful sludge from the headstock. First picture is after I had already wiped some out. I made sure every nook and cranny was gotten to.
All the little components and levers got a good scrub and inspection then started to go back in, fixing anything that needed it along the way. First up was the feed reverse lever, this thing had no hard stops but didn't seem to cause damage by doing so, confirmed when I could get a good look with the oil drained. After taking it apart I found a little pin inside that had sheared. I drilled out the broken stud and replaced with some tig wire. I used a chunk from an end that had been used as it had a bit of heat treat making it harder. Putting back together I aligned the gear positions with where I wanted the lever. Also reinstalled the high-low gear change lever and clean up the oil level sight glass.
I flushed out the outer bearing races and the spring loaded cap for the rear race, cleaning up the casting as well. The front outer race is an interference fit into the headstock. It was -40 when I did this so a few minutes outside and it slid right into place. The rear outer race is a sliding fit so the spring loading can move it as needed.
A couple shots with all the little pieces and levers back in place. Everything got the same going through.
I flushed out the outer bearing races and the spring loaded cap for the rear race, cleaning up the casting as well. The front outer race is an interference fit into the headstock. It was -40 when I did this so a few minutes outside and it slid right into place. The rear outer race is a sliding fit so the spring loading can move it as needed.
A couple shots with all the little pieces and levers back in place. Everything got the same going through.
The bearings got a complete going through. Each one taken apart, thoroughly cleaned/scrubbed and inspected, then reassembled. I kept each roller in the same position in the cage to ensure any variations on how they wore together remained. A light oiling then bagged until they are reinstalled. All was done using lint free automotive paint prep wipes and a lot of effort went into keeping everything perfectly clean before reassembly and bagging. Just like that, all three were done.
All the spindle gearing looked great, cleaned and filed down any burrs. The chuck locking ring had a lot of the bluing worn off and looked rough. I stripped the bluing with some warm vinegar and gave everything a once over with a soft wire brush. Looks much better in my opinion now that is has a consistent finish but I might re-blue. All parts are ready to go back on once the spindle is done.
All the spindle gearing looked great, cleaned and filed down any burrs. The chuck locking ring had a lot of the bluing worn off and looked rough. I stripped the bluing with some warm vinegar and gave everything a once over with a soft wire brush. Looks much better in my opinion now that is has a consistent finish but I might re-blue. All parts are ready to go back on once the spindle is done.
@Tom O @Brent H @Tom Kitta - That guy has some issues for sure, but, not worth any more time. For those shafts if I do end up welding, I have the luxury of some heat treating experience and equipment. Worked for several years as a heat treater for large vessels and piping etc. and enjoy doing the stuff! Was already thinking I'd heat treat anyway for some fun!
Nice work Scotty. It's going to be better than new when you are done.
@John Conroy - Thanks, John! That's the plan, I'll go all out on this as it's such a good base and most likely keep for a long long time. I wish I was around when things like this were still being made.
@Hruul - Glad you enjoy them! Try to take as many pictures as I can for those little things I might not have noticed and need to check when reassembling. This lathe does have some good manual available online though.
@Hruul - Glad you enjoy them! Try to take as many pictures as I can for those little things I might not have noticed and need to check when reassembling. This lathe does have some good manual available online though.
Interesting design on the front spindle bearing. I have never seen one that used spring to control bearing preload. It makes sense when I think about it though. The bearing will maintain sufficient preload through it's entire life even after a little wear occurs.
Bowhead
Brand New Member
I’m new to this forum and it was your lathe that caught my eye. I too have a round head that needs some love. The single phase vibration issue has reared its ugly head in my direction. I’ll take the advice of a 3 phase and VFD. Have you found a “favourite” resource or website for finding parts?
great post.
great post.
Hi Scotty
I also have a VDF Boehringer lathe. It is an older 48SR (probably 1960s) with the same headstock transmission and the same powered turret I have an english language manual for the engine lathe version and a German manual that includes the powered turret. If you don't have these, I can pdf for you. I am still looking for an english language manual for the turret as I need to fix a couple of things.