Chainsaws of the Forum

[Chicken lights]

Yes it may do it, but you will be hating it. In my somewhat limited experience, you will want about a 36 inch bar minimum. Have I cut a 60 inch tree? Yes, I have dropped a few, and then cut them up for firewood, a lot of work, I got smarter as I got older, them big ones are too much work, LOL. Can’t lift unless it’s broke up, or use a small crane. Done that. Cut a tree about 16 inch’s, then can be handled, loaded, hauled, packed to the wood breaker.
Though it’s been 5 years since I have needed to do the firewood thing, I did learn a bit after doing it for about 55 years.
Any of the above may not count if dealing with hardwood, no experience there.

Well, this is only my experience too, the problem with a 36" bar is it stinks for limbing. The way we did things was all the falling saws were 20-24", same chain pitch, tried to keep the same models even the spares, last place was all 660's. One goes down or you bend a bar, you can steal parts and keep working. One file size for the crew, one size scrench for bar nuts.

The only exception to that was we usually kept like an 026 on the skidder, just in case.

I have had to rip logs lengthwise to quarter them, because the log truck couldn't lift them otherwise. That sucked. A lot.

Majority of the big trees here are hardwood, with the exception of some big white pine. I often wondered if the west coast guys ran the big bars for falling but had a crew for limbing? We typically ran 2-5 man crews, 3 men was ideal.

 

[DPittman]

big trees here are hardwood

To this prairie boy that's almost unimaginable.

 

[BaitMaster]

what if you put like a 20" bar on a 90cc saw ? would that stupid but awesome, or would it throw the chain in .368 seconds ?

I have an 18” bar for my 72cc saw. Works fantastic. It certainly looks more at home with a 24” bar on it but hey, it keeps me from needing to buy a fourth saw. It’s not that much heavier then a 50cc with the small bar so I make do.

 

[Bandit]

Hey, you make do with what you have. I have found that the saws seem be a bit heavier the older I’ve got. Guess I’m not not what I used to be. ———- I know I’m not!

 

[YotaBota]

I have found that the saws seem be a bit heavier the older I’ve got

Really,, I seem to be stronger as I get older, I can now carry $100 worth of groceries in one hand! LOL

 

[CWret]

For somethings and sometimes I buy no-name stuff but not chainsaws. Not sure why - I guess it is an ownership pride thing and/or also i think it is a safety thing. Chainsaws are dangerous so I don’t want to make any compromises there.

My chainsaws are Sthil. I also only buy replacement chains and bars that are OE.
I had a MS230 for many years but it had an accident (no fault of the saw but the dumb operator that put it in harm’s way).
I now have a MS194 - it is very light and intended for arborist while off the ground. It is powerful for its small size & weight and nicely balanced. Expensive yes but well worth it and my old arms love it!

I also have a HT131. It is a pole saw like the pros would use. When extended, it is 13’8” long. It was purchased after the big ice storm a dozen years ago. Definitely one of my better buys.

PS1 - i have an inexpensive electric chainsaw sharpener. It’s great for a quick touch up so that you are never fighting with a saw because the chain is not sharp.
PS2 - whenever i change the chain i flip the bar. If you don’t, then the bottom side of the bar wares out while the top has lots of life left.
PS3- I have some EGO battery yard stuff (string trimmer, leaf blower and hedge trimmer) & I considered an EGO chainsaw BUT - the gas version has abundant power and the Sthil saws i have are very very easy to start. I only use Sthil premixed fuel so ZERO ethanol & I believe that is why they are easy to start and no needed carb tune-ups. (FYI - a carb cleanup is easy with an ultrasonic cleaner which was another great buy).

 

[Chicken lights]

PS1- Chainsaws are dangerous so I don’t want to make any compromises there.


PS2 - whenever i change the chain i flip the bar. If you don’t, then the bottom side of the bar wares out while the top has lots of life left.

PS1- I disagree, I think chainsaws should be respected but not dangerous. The person using them can be dangerous. Real quick story we did a work party and I was blocking fire wood, I said I don't run a saw after drinking right up front. Everyone kinda slowed up after a couple hours for a break and drinks were brought out, I thought we were done so had a beer. Then they started work again. They were shocked when I put my saw in the pickup and started stacking wood 😀

PS2- flipping your bar is awesome advice, but watch for burrs. One, they're sharp as heck and will cut your fingers badly. Two, if the burr gets too large the saw won't cut because the burr is wider than the cutter on the chain. If you can, dress it flat after removing the burr or the saw will cut crooked because it's no longer flat. Plus make sure the oil hole is clean because usually when you flip it the other side is plugged. Doesn't hurt to run a butter knife down the inside of the bar rails either to clean the junk out

 

[CWret]

- Good advice David - power tools and booze don’t mix. I had the same rule for off-road or trail, once the beer came out i was done!
- disagree- chainsaws and hand held disc grinders are just plain dangerous, the operator has to be alert and careful because that tool can easily bit you!
- i guess that because i offer flip the saw bar, i have not seen a burr. But good advice to be aware of that potential problem