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Best gas for mig Welding sheet metal?

All this discussion on the 180 family makes me thankful I cracked the wallet until it hurt and bought the "C" model!

@Hacker speaks the truth....
My motto when it comes to my welding is "Grinding and paint can hide a lot of ugly".

@dfloen, I have argon (100%) and Ar75/CO2-25, which aren't 80% argon, are they both out of the question to play with spray transfer?

D:cool:
 
100% argon should allow you to do it if the machine is capable - you have the 180C... set it up past 26V, look up an IPM that should go w/ that voltage for that machine/wire and have at'er. Weld on something thicker than 1/8". I've never tried w/ anything smaller than 0.035" steel or .040" aluminum wire.
 
For aluminum I use my spool gun with 0.035 wire running 135+ amps 100% argon with a Everlast Power MTS 211Si and it does a great job - starts spraying about 125 Amps and then adjust to get a nice consistent penetration and bead. the welder lets you switch up between wire speed and voltage to letting it manage itself and you just adjust the amperage as a total factor. It has worked very well for me - push the puddle instead of pulling
 
@Brent H - I'm making an assumption that you use your spool gun for aluminum but want to check first... that's correct, aluminum spools?

I have a surplus of aluminum spools for spool guns and no longer own a machine that runs them (I still have a spool gun for the Mig 180 but sold a welder w/ the card, etc. still in it... if anyone needs a LE spool gun...) I think most of the spools are 5356? 5653? and I'm 100% guessing that they're likely 0.035" - I haven't touched them in the past year and the last 5 or 6 years the only times that I have handled them were to move/organize the shop.
 
@ThirtyOneDriver : yep, the spool gun is just for the Aluminum. The TIG function on the machine has no AC wave form so it was easier to just e-bay a spool gun, convert it to work on the machine and go from there. Works best on thicker AL. I would not want to be welding thinner than 1/8" for sure. and probably no thicker than 3/8" but, I have not tried 0.40 or 0.45 and really jacked the amps.

If you have a surplus of spools I would be interested in lightening up your shop space. I do not do a whole lot of aluminum but who knows what the future brings - LOL The gun runs the 2lb spools. At school we pretty much used the spool guns for welding ships components together and making superstructure repairs to the small boats. Now, that was 30+ years ago and I am sure things might be changed? I know the guys at the base have Mig Aluminum but they are using special set ups.
 
@Susquatch - the main visual difference from the 180C to the retail 180s was the billet aluminum drive system (pictures) - MOST 180 retail welders have some sort of composite components (drive wheels are still steel)... my retail 180s have more plastic than the model I took the image from.

View attachment 19850View attachment 19851

Mine is less than both of those. On first blush, mine appears to be a molded composite part.

I will never use it enough to realize a difference. In the time that I have owned it I've only used two spools of wire. I may use more if I ever get any good at it. But it will never be a full time tool.

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I'm not sure what the ship builders are using these days; I did get to work w/ someone who had been a ship builder and was surprised by his descriptions of plunge cutting aluminum plates w/ guard less skill saws and the sort.

Push-pull machines have been the standard to strive for on the base (my welding school is on the base closest to you) for aluminum MIG... I'm pretty confident that where we were rebuilding the old aluminum hulled armoured personnel carriers were using push-pull systems as well. Looking through catalogues, there is a market for aluminum welders intended for body shops now... again, I didn't see spool guns but what looks like push-pull MIG systems - MSRP around $10k for red and blue ones.

If you're ever in the area... I may need to make a visit to Bradford (possibly Gravenhurst) in the coming weeks so who knows, maybe they'll end up on your door step.
 
I have one from 2006 that's setup like your @Susquatch - other than needing to repair the main board it's never been a problem and it's had about 20 spools pushed through it.

Good to hear. If I could aspire to one spool a year, that would be a lot. I'll prolly be growing daisies from the bottom up in 20 years. But even if not, I won't be welding or farming anymore. Maybe a little machining.....
 
Turn your power down a bit, short stick out, quick trigger pull and release. Move to a new location and repeat. Keeps heat from building and causing melt through.

I've never used gas with my Mig only flux core so Aluminum was out of the question. I put about 30lbs of 0.30 wire through my machine over the years.

Switched to Tig best thing I ever did. Same machine dies stick if I need quick and dirt (mind you need yo learn stick).
 
Turn your power down a bit, short stick out, quick trigger pull and release. Move to a new location and repeat. Keeps heat from building and causing melt through.

Power and feed are both as low as they go. But the quick trigger pull and release is a new concept for me. Frankly, this seems like solid gold advice. Never thought if it and obviously never tried it.

Thinking back, others have probably tried to tell me that but I didn't understand what they meant till just now.

I'll try that as soon as I get the chance!

Thank you!
 
Power and feed are both as low as they go. But the quick trigger pull and release is a new concept for me. Frankly, this seems like solid gold advice. Never thought if it and obviously never tried it.

Thinking back, others have probably tried to tell me that but I didn't understand what they meant till just now.

I'll try that as soon as I get the chance!

Thank you!
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Hopefully this helps, lots of video online about this.
 
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Read through, may have missed it if it was mentioned, but one decent 'cheat' for thin stock, IF you have access to the back side, is to form some copper sheet to fit as a backer. The weld will not stick to the copper, it will draw out some of the heat, and may be an aid to preventing the edges from pulling back, when you have poured just a little too much heat in.

Hold the copper in a pair of vise grips. It's gonna get hot! :)
 
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